South of France to the Costa Blanca

27 November 2007 … along the Italian Riviera through Albenga, Noli, Finale Ligure, and arrived at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare, 85 kms from the French border (enroute to South of France and then onto South of Spain for the winter). Stayed the night at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare.

28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.

29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.

30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.

1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.

2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.

We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.

Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.

3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.

4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.

5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.

6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).

7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).

8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.

9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.

10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).

11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.

12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.

13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.

14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.

NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…

15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.

16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.

17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.

18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.

19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.

20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.