Hooray Howards Gone

Sorry this is still a few weeks old - watch out for the next exiting installment including - Monte Carlo, The French Grand Canyon and the Pont du Gard. Currently at Agde and on our way to Carcassone along the canal du midi then Spain by the weekend.

Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.

14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.