Italy

8 October 2007 Stayed in Ferlach, Austria.
9 October 2007 Mobile bakery van came beeping thru the rows of mobile homes so John bought bread. Drove to Europe’s (Austria’s) most beautiful mountain canyon ‘Tscheppaschlucht’ – 6.50 euro entry fee each!! Although after walking the amazing trail of waterfalls, steep and rugged rocks, all with steps, ladders and bridges for hikers it was well worth it – a spectacle of nature with the Autumn colours just so beautiful – reds and oranges. Linda had very bad hay fever which I have only ever had since hitting Europe!! Tea and beers and internet at café, and stayed at Ferlach again.
10 October 2007 Drove out of town and John reversed into something hard which smashed the back bumper bar and caused a hole! Had been bogged up previously!! Linda terrible allergies and took some of Barbara’s antihistamines. Drove back to Ferlach, John made tortellini and we stayed the night.
11 October 2007 Left Ferlach for Italy and drove approx. 100 km to Gemona del Friuli. An earthquake in 1976 killed 989 people and destroyed 15,000 houses and most of the town. Walked from van park to town - very pretty right on base of steep mountains with stone wall around the medieval part. Started up the steps 100m to the medieval castle that unfortunately was being restored from the ’76 earthquake damage so was fenced off. Looked at old church. John made magnificent stir-fry. Stayed Gemona del Friuli, Italy.
12 October 2007 Left at noon and drove thru Palmanova – a star shaped town, to Aquileia. It was established in 181 BC on the River Natissa as an important commercial centre along the ‘Amber Route’ and was one of the biggest Roman Empire cities - now declared a UNESCO world heritage site. By 10 BC, when Emperor Augustus received Herod the Great here, Aquileia was the 4th most important city in Italy – after Rome, Milan and Capua. In 314 Theodore the 1st patriarch built the basilica, but was sacked by Attila in 452. Patriarch Poppo rebuilt the basilica in the early 11th century but an earthquake destroyed much of Poppo’s work in 1348. Regional power inevitably passed to Venice. Saw roman columns from an ancient Roman metropolis and masterpieces of early Christianity (Basilica of Saint Eufemia dating back more than 1400 years, and the baptistry and basilica of Saint Maria delle Grazie – one of the oldest early Christian churches, and in the basilica of Aquileia (presently predominantly Romanesque and Gothic style) – Theodore’s extraordinary 4th century mosaic floor discovered below the nave floor at the beginning of the 20th century and is thought to be the earliest surviving remnant of any Christian church; and 12th century faded frescoes. Dedicated to the virgin Mary and Saints Ermacora and Fortunatus; in 313 AD after Emperor Constantine had issued the Edict of Milan, to bring an end to religious persecutions, the early Christians of Aquileia decided to construct the town’s first public bldg for worship. Walked along the archaeological excavations along the river where spices, perfumes and precious materials arrived from the orient, and amber glass and wine exported. Roman tombs once lined the roads into Aquileia.
13 October 2007 Relaxed, left at 2pm for Caorle on the north east coast of Italy. Went for a walk around the town, church and the port and bought a chess/checkers set. 1000s of mostly Italians and their motor homes camped here – stayed in Caorle.
14 October 2007 Drove to Jesola and had a walk around town and along the beach (town on eastern Adriatic coast). Quite eerie as eastern coast of Italy seasonal so looks and feels like a ghost town eg empty hotels for miles and very few people. Very bad winds along coast, stayed at Jesola.
15 October 2007 Left Jesola twds Venice approx. 17 km, stopped and stayed the night at Punta Sabbioni (opposite Venice across the channel). Ferry over to Venice (60 euros for both of us for 72 hrs unlimited ferries in and around Venice). Walked around Venice, inc’g St. Marks Square and the Basilica. Took the ferry down the Grand Canal. Amazing beautiful old buildings lining the canals, and gondolas and Gondoliers dressed in stripy tops, straw hats with a ribbon and black pants everywhere. Best thing about Venice besides its beauty, art, architecture and history is that there are NO cars, and worst thing – the tourists – must be horrendous in July-Aug!!
16 October 2007 Ferry to Venice in morning, and, ferry 1 down the Grand Canal. Walked half way back and had our rolls on water canal. Pigeons everywhere. Walked to Gallerie dell’ Accademia and got the audio guides. Saw many old masters paintings – mainly Tintoretto, and, Titian’s ‘Virgin and Child’ (arguably 2 of the best Venetian painters). Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
17 October 2007 Started car to drive 10 metres to empty waste water at appropriate drain, turned off motor to wait for another motor home using the facility and taking a long time…then she wouldn’t start again! Used park owners battery jump starter and she started, moved over drain and she turned herself off after 1 min. Another motor homer jump started us with his jumper leads. Paid and left but decided to drive for approx. 1 hour to recharge car battery. Grocery shop and, found gratuit motor home parking further along from previous 2 nights, still at Punta Sabbioni (what a pity we didn’t find it earlier – lots of motor homes – mostly Italian, one German). Met an interesting English couple, Alan and Jaki, who had lived in NZ for the past 7 years, Greece for 10 years previously, had sold everything and bought a new motor home, and were looking to buy a property in eastern Europe, Croatia or Montenegro to semi-retire on. Ferry to Burano – little Venice - where all the houses are painted in bright colours so that the fishermen can recognise their homes from out at sea – known for its beautiful lace, and, then to Murano, home of the famous Venetian glass – watched the men making it. Strolled the streets and went into many glass shops. Ferry from these 2 little islands to Venice.
18 October 2007 About to ferry over to Venice again as our tickets were valid for 3 days, but Alan and Jaki came over to chat about all our adventures. They had 2 dogs brought over from NZ – one looked very like Sophie! Read our books and relaxed for the rest of the day – bit of a walk to the lighthouse and ferry stop to Venice. Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
19 October 2007 Left Punta Sabbioni and the car started straight away luckily. Drove about 170km to Lido di Estensi and had a walk around town at night, and stayed the night. Very windy and cold.
20 October 2007 Continuing windy and cold but had a walk around Lido di Estensi and a cappuccino at a café. John went to internet café and came home with octopus, prawns and calamari for dinner. Stayed the night.
21 October 2007 Still cold and windy…drove to Rimini to a pay aires for motor homes but free today as Sunday. Left as John didn’t like it. Drove to Riccioni and stayed free on the beach at a car park under a flood light. Went to laundromat.
22 October 2007 Raining, windy and cold. Hopefully ‘aires’ (or ‘sosta’ Italian for pause eg often water, waste water dump for bathroom and kitchen and WC (toilet empty) – for motor homers) at Senigallia is open as free. However, found one at ‘Pasaro’ just by following camper car picture signs (everywhere in France and Italy). Shopping at Auchan in Fano. Stayed at sosta at Porto Potenza Picena (gratuit and free water) and we were the only motor home there.
23 October 2007 Drove through Porto San Elpidio and suddenly Italy more beautiful now…to Fermo – where we went to see the amazing 2000 year old Roman Cisterns – approx. 3 rows of 8 rooms, built by the Romans for a water supply for the Roman fleet and the town. Paid for entrance and a guided tour in English. The only others on the tour were a nice English couple whom we had interesting political discussions with. Continued driving through Porto San Giorgio, Pedaso, to San Veto Chietino, by which time it was dark and late so we stayed the night.
24 October 2007 Woke on sunrise to a magnificent view of a sea green flat sea behind a gorgeous old town. We went for a walk along the small beach, and the jetty - with these weird precariously balancing wooden structures with huge nets on them all along it, and there was not a soul around. We had read that south of Pescara the coast was less built up – and this seems so. No longer ghost towns but pretty little coastal towns. Water very calm – no waves, and an amazing greeny aqua colour. John thought the town a little run down but I thought it pretty. Drove to Larino and found ‘sosta camper’ but as per usual lately in Italy we were the only motor home. Italians holiday in July and August and France was packed with baby-boomer retiree couples in their motor homes (most have dogs in there too!!) in July-Aug. Now, most English retirees in motor homes have gone to the very south of Italy or Spain to escape the cold winter. Bit of walk around old part of Larino and looked at the Cathedral. Parked near Piazza in old part of Larino for the night – rather than camper car spot where there were no others - as under lights and safer.
25 October 2007 Garbage truck woke us up very early!! Went for an early morning walk to the park to look at some Roman relics and columns, and a sacrificial alter (John said they were crap). Larino apparently the most attractive of Molise towns with its medieval centre in the valley – yes, this is very pretty country and there are olives and grapes growing everywhere (Italy very mountainous). Had cappuccinos and chocolate croissants for b’fast where all the locals seemed to go ‘Centro Caffe Piazza Vittorio’’. Strangely to me, the Italians tend to stand at the bar/counter to drink their espresso (tiny cups of very strong thick coffee) in the morning! Museum next door shut as off season. Walked around amphitheatre from 400BC – very amazing; although we hadn’t seen Pompei or Rome at this stage. Drove to Benevento an old stop on the Roman route to Brindisi from Rome. John thought it looked like a giant slum and the sosta camper was locked. We did, however, drive past the Arch of Trajan –the major remnant of the Roman era with its intricate friezes built to guard its entrance to Benevento from the Appian way. That was the end of that town!! So drove to Paestum to see the Roman ruins. Had a bit of a walk along the road thru the ruins, and called Charles twice just to be sure – we don’t trust these European phone cards we keep buying that cost a bomb and don’t last long and keep cutting off every five minutes!!! Doesn’t help that we can’t read Italian – or French for that matter - and left msgs. Stayed at Paestum where a stray dog adopted us, and John made fantastic stir-fry. Stayed at Paestum.
26 October 2007 The dog guarded us all night and was still asleep at our door in the morning. Looked at the Paestum Museum full of Roman, previously Greek, 2500-3000 y.o. antiquities including tombs and a famous painting “the diver” thought to symbolise mans’ mortality and the shortness of life. Then walked around a huge area of Greek/Roman ruins and saw 3 amazing, imposing, huge Roman temples, and, a whole town that has been excavated. Great examples of upper-middle class Roman homes, with beautiful mosaic floors. The town was attacked and the inhabitants either died of malaria or fled for the hills, then forgotten for 1500 years. Had wonderful Italian gelatos.
27 October 2007 Left Paestum early and had a look at a beach 5 mins from Paestum. Drove to the Amalfi Coast Road and at Maiori were stopped and told we couldn’t use the road until 6am. When you see the Amalfi Coast Rd. you will understand!! Very narrow on sheer cliff and its amazing how even a tourist bus can get around it. Allowed to stop at next town but absolutely no parking, returned to Maiori and parked for 1 euro per 40 minutes (20 euros) until 5am the next morning. Pizza for dinner and walk around the beach and quaint town and church.
28 October 2007 John drove the rest of the Amalfi Coast – an amazing feat in itself if you saw how narrow the road is! commencing before sunrise. Just an incredibly beautiful coastline and we watched the sun rise – sheer cliffs, amazing precariously balanced crops (vines and orange trees?) and hotels built on rock many metres above the sea!. Drove through the edge of Sorrento, to Castellammare di Stabia (rubbish overflowing from bins everywhere – maybe the garbos are on strike?) but area felt unsafe, so we continued to Pompei. Found a sosta camper place 10 mins walk from the Roman city of Pompei (previously a Greek colony, but under Romans in 200 BC) that was buried under ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 63 AD and it’s thought 2000 perished, asphyxiated by the toxic fumes and volcanic debris. Excavations have revealed in precise and remarkable detail the ordinary life of Roman citizens during the imperial era – social conventions, class structure, domestic arrangements and its very high standard of living. We wandered the Pompei streets for several hours (very large area) and John liked the zebra crossings which were high stones across the cobbled roads at regular intervals, but also the mosaic floors in glorious patterns. Most Romans apparently couldn’t read so for eg a picture of a goat on a street corner meant goat street. The Forum was amazing – surrounded by the ruins of what would have been some of the town’s most important official bldgs – a basilica (usually a church, but here it was used for justice), the temples of Apollo and Jupiter, and, with imposing Mount Versuvius in the background. Also looked at the amphitheatre dating from 80 BC which once had room for 12,000 – more than half the town’s population, and, Villa dei Misteri, probably the best preserved of all Pompeii’s palatial houses, originally a 3rd century BC structure with beautiful paintings painted on the walls. The brothel was interesting, as the men coming into the port often couldn’t speak Latin, so chose from a series of vivid pictures on the wall! Walked back to our camper and Aagje, Jan and their 3 dogs Malu, Flo and Keesje parked next to us came to say hello – all from Holland but living in Hungary. Lovely people – we clicked with them immediately and were very compatible travelling companions - who invited us for cake and coffee in their camper. Stayed in Pompei.
29 October 2007 Aagje and Jan followed us to another Pompei Caravan Park right opposite the Roman ruins. All went out to a restaurant for pizza/Italian beer together. Late night playing cards (they taught us a variation of bridge) and sharing beers and lemon Chello together in our camper. Aagje and Jan always win! Stayed in Pompei.
30 October 2007 Walked to Pompei train station close to camp ground to get bus tickets to Mount Vesuvius. Walked from the top to the mouth of Mt V. Saw a wisp of steam rising from the crater! Talked with a couple from America who lived in Hawaii and were staying in Naples - but said not to bother visiting it. Good view of Naples and the coast line from the top. Shared dinner with Aagje and Jan, drinks and cards all night. Discussed our itineraries together as they wanted to go south and we wanted to head to Rome to meet Charles – eventually we all agreed on an itinerary. Stayed in Pompei.
31 October 2007 All left Pompei together and drove over an hour just to get out of Pompei through dirty traffic. Finally hit nice tree filled mountains and arrived at Montella. Raining, and cold as in the mountains. John cooked us all stir-fry for dinner, cards, lemon chello and red wine… great fun! Stayed in Montella.
1 November 2007 Rained all day. Cards, cheese and bread all day in Jan and Aagje’s flash camper. All had dinner together, fantastic pasta cooked by Aagje, and watched ‘Walk the Line’ about the life of Johnny Cash – in their camper. Stayed in Montella.
2 November 2007 Left with Aagje and Jan following us, through winding, steep roads with beautiful mountains on either side. Beautiful Autumn colours - trees all turning yellow. Stayed the night at Cassino (John, Aagje and I went for a walk around town) and played cards together in the evening. Linda had bad hay fever so took Aagje’s knock out pills. Stayed at Cassino.
3 November 2007 Left together for Rome. Found camping sosta 5km from centro. Watched dvds and played cards together. Stayed in Rome.
4 November 2007 All walked 5 kms to Centre of Rome which dates to before 753BC when Remus became to cities first monarch; but Rome has approx. 8000 years of history and is one of the most layered cities in the world. Visited the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano which was the main papal residence, and behind the alter Saints’ Peter and Paul’s heads reside. Walked around the colosseum, the Arch of Constantine and the Roman Forum (containing numerous Roman public buildings and monuments) – amazing stuff! Saw the speaking platform where Caesar and Cicero became famous speaking in eloquent Latin. Walked all around the centre of Rome and saw the Trevi Fountain.
5 November 2007 John and Jan went into Rome and looked at Saint Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Spanish Steps, and the Piazza Navona. Fantastic last night together with Jan and Aagje bbq cooked by Johnno and salads/dessert by Linda and Aagje. Stayed in Rome.
6 November 2007 John and Jan removed the fan belt on our camper as it’s been making a screeching noise which is getting louder. Ordered a new one which when John went to pick it up – was the wrong one! Put car back together, and sadly said good-bye to our friends Aagje and Jan and co. Linda did a big grocery shop before picking Charles up from one of Rome’s airports at 4pm. Drove to Charles yacht TARA OF LONDON which is only 2 years old, and is a very flash 40 foot French built vessel that includes a refrigerator, washing machine, 2 ensuites, flat screen tv, 2 solar panels and a desalination plant, at the Port of Rome (Ostia Porto de Roma). Linda cooked steak and snags, dessert of fruit flan. Ania had written us all a card saying to have a great holiday and thanking Charles for all his help – which included cakes cooked by Ania. Thanks Ania! XO Slept on Tara of London.
7 November 2007 Charles and John took one of the sails off to be cleaned. John fell into 19 degree or less seawater walking the passerelle, but surfaced luckily so I didn’t have to jump in to save him! Bit of a bump appeared on his head but he was all right. Linda made spaghetti marinara for dinner. All of us had drinks at Café Friends with some Americans we met who were all liveaboards (10 years and 20 years!) moored in the same port as Charles for the winter (until March 2008). Stayed in luxury on Tara of London.
8 November 2007 Linda did washing at the marina whilst Charles and John took the remaining 2 sails down. Had evening meal on Tara together – Greek salad and sausages. Stayed on Tara of London.
9 November 2007 Very windy and cold so we didn’t go into Rome as planned. We all caught the bus to Ostia to get Charles and John a phone card. Charles bought us all dinner at a very nice Indian Restaurant Called Öm. Very nice, many courses, they drank Indian red wine called Kuma Sutra which they said was very nice. Walked along beach footpath back to the port where Tara is housed, as the bus did not turn up! Very nice walk. G&T and coffee at Café Friends on way to Charles yacht. Slept on Tara.
10 November 2007 Charles, John and I set off together in the morning in our camping car for Collepepe (approx. 180 km/2.5 hrs) to meet my second cousins (Giovanna and Francesco) - Charles niece and nephew, and, their father Andrea, - Charles brother-in-law. Andrea and Giovanna were their to greet us with a warm welcome, and we had a lovely lunch together prepared by Giovanna. Andrea gave us a tour of their huge, beautiful medieval house, including its 29 bathrooms, that he renovated following earthquake damage in 1997. All furnished in antiques with lovely pictures on all the walls, and the most beautiful views of rolling hills in the distance and countryside through all the many windows. We all had dinner together prepared by Giovanna – thank you Giovanna. Slept in a beautiful apartment next to Charles apartment in the huge house in Collepepe.
11 November 2007 In the morning Francesco and his girlfriend from Estonia, Sirla, turned up at their fathers house. We all drove in 2 cars to a little town nearby in Perugia for mass with Don Mariano; who turned up at 11.30am for mass at 11am, preceeded by his housekeeper. He has been the priest there for 51years and everyone adores him – he is quite a character. Mass was another 20 minutes later as he said hello to everyone – kisses on both cheeks, and got dressed into his robes in front of the alter. Mass, of course, was all in Italian. Don Mariano asked John if he spoke English and when John replied yes he said “I don’t”! Beautiful little town and countryside. Franceso and Sirla gave us a tour of the countryside and their gorgeous 600 year old stone holiday house in the little town quite close to Collepepe with the most amazing beautiful views of the countryside out all the windows. Giovanna made lovely tortellini, salad and cheeses for lunch, and Sirla made fantastic peach pie for dessert, and Charles, Andrea and John drank wine from Andrea’s grapes/vineyard. Andrea gave Charles and I a bottle of olive oil from his olives, and me some honey from his friends bees. Group photo session and cups of tea… we didn’t stop eating from arrival to departure at Collepepe!!!! If Mum or Jen happen to be reading this – Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco all said to say hello to you both and they remembered fondly of your visit, and Jen’s twice, and, they asked after you both. I told them they were all welcome anytime in Australia of course – and to bring Charles. Then we had to say goodbye, and Charles, John and I departed for our return trip to TARA in our camping car and arrived at 8.30pm. Had some cheeses and cold meats and then Linda made boring cauliflower veg soup for dinner! (NB I have a ‘slight’ feeling that Charles and John are over my cooking as they always want to go out to the steak or Chinese restaurant quite close to Charles boat!! ;-) ) Slept in style on TARA.
12 November 2008 I screwed up as we were all going to bus into Rome and go and see the Museum Capitoline to see some famous statues. We even got lovely warm weather but alas, we all realised that most of Rome’s museums are closed Mondays!!!  Charles found a small leak from his desal system on board. Charles took us to a fantastic Italian Steak Restaurant for lunch, 5 mins walk from TARA, right on the water overlooking all the moorings. Charles had bison for the first time, from Canada, and John had a 750g steak, and we all had lemon sorbets and cappacinos. Fantastic food if anyone is ever in the Port of Rome! Charles and Johnny had a little siesta on board in their cabins, Linda typed this blog. Charles and John put the dinghy back on the top of TARA. Bit sad we are departing tomorrow!
13 November 2008 Cleaned up Charles yacht a bit. Drove Charles to the airport so that he could fly home to London, where we said our good-byes boo hoo. John and I drove to the sosta camper 5 kms from centre of Rome (where we stayed with Agje and Jan before meeting Charles) for a few more days checking out Rome.