Unfortunately we have to come home next year so we need to start advertising the van. If anyone knows someone wanting to see europe for over 6 months then campervaning is the way to go.
VW T4, 2.4 Diesel Motor Home, 1994 EuroMobil 580 Sun
₤9,000 negotiable
109,000 Miles (175,000km), Left Hand Drive, 4 Berth Including Large Above Cab Double Bed with Access Ladder, Lighting & Privacy Curtain, 4 Place Dining with 2 Forward Facing Seat Belts – Converts to Another Double Bed. Bathroom in Back Corner of Motorhome - with h/c Shower and Sink, Flushing Toilet (Cassette), and Large Mirrored Vanity Unit. Lots of Storage Throughout - Quality Made Overhead Lockers/Cupboards and Under Seat Storage. Good Lighting Throughout. Kitchen with 3 Burner Stove/Hob with Exhaust Fan/Rangehood, Electrolux 3 way (12V/240V/Gas) Fridge with Freezer Compartment, Sink with Hot/Cold Water, and Good Bench Space. Truma Gas Heater & Hot Water System. Privacy Black Out Blinds and Fly Screens and Double Curtains on all the Windows. Good Fuel Efficiency and Good Mechanical Condition - 7,000 kms Without Missing a Beat. A Spacious but Cosy Motorhome measuring 5.85 metres.
Sold With 12 months MOT & Full Service History
Just completing a 10 month European tour (in Spain Returning Soon) and are reluctantly returning home to Australia
Extras:
►Large Wind Out Awning
►All Windows Double Glazed, and Insulated all Round (Very Warm Motorhome)
►2 CD/Radio players – one for driving - runs off car battery, one in the back for motorhome – runs off leisure battery or electricity
►Passenger Swivel Seat, and Both Front Seats Very Comfortable with Adjustable Armrests
►100lt/20gal Fresh Water Tank, and Underneath Waste Water Tanks, and Water Hose
► External Locker for 2 10kg Gas Bottles, 6kg UK Gas Bottle, and French Connections
►Rear Ladder and Roof Bars
►Bike Rack
►Top Box
►Good Tyres (1 Spare) - including 2 Brand New Rear Tyres
►Brand New Exhaust
►Safe, and Fiama External Rear Door Lock, and Front Door Strap (Very Secure)
►Tow Bar
►Outside table and chairs
►Levelling ramps
►Full Emergency Kit including Triangle, Vests etc. as Required in Europe, and First Aid Kit
►Mains 240v hook up with built in battery charger, and European and UK Electric Hook up Cables
►Guidebooks (Free/Cheap Campsites Guides to Europe & TOM TOM Camping Sites Data - highly recommended you get yourself a Tom Tom)
►BBQ
►No Smoking or Pets in the Motorhome
►Cutlery, Plates, Cups, Coffee Pot and Cooking implements
►Spare European Headlights
Lots and Lots of Extras – Too Much to List – Runs and Drives Great and is Ready to Go Round Europe. Contains Everything You Need for Wild Camping.
See Photos, and Inspections Welcome - Feel Free to Come and Have a Look/Test Drive
This Vehicle is Advertised Elsewhere and We Reserve the Right to Remove From Sale
Any questions/further information feel free to call John or Linda on 07766277478 or email linda.kable@gmail.com
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
This is where we are staying over xmas
http://www.camperparkcostablanca.com
the site has some good info re whats around here!
the site has some good info re whats around here!
South of France to the Costa Blanca
27 November 2007 … along the Italian Riviera through Albenga, Noli, Finale Ligure, and arrived at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare, 85 kms from the French border (enroute to South of France and then onto South of Spain for the winter). Stayed the night at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Hooray Howards Gone
Sorry this is still a few weeks old - watch out for the next exiting installment including - Monte Carlo, The French Grand Canyon and the Pont du Gard. Currently at Agde and on our way to Carcassone along the canal du midi then Spain by the weekend.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
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