Unfortunately we have to come home next year so we need to start advertising the van. If anyone knows someone wanting to see europe for over 6 months then campervaning is the way to go.
VW T4, 2.4 Diesel Motor Home, 1994 EuroMobil 580 Sun
₤9,000 negotiable
109,000 Miles (175,000km), Left Hand Drive, 4 Berth Including Large Above Cab Double Bed with Access Ladder, Lighting & Privacy Curtain, 4 Place Dining with 2 Forward Facing Seat Belts – Converts to Another Double Bed. Bathroom in Back Corner of Motorhome - with h/c Shower and Sink, Flushing Toilet (Cassette), and Large Mirrored Vanity Unit. Lots of Storage Throughout - Quality Made Overhead Lockers/Cupboards and Under Seat Storage. Good Lighting Throughout. Kitchen with 3 Burner Stove/Hob with Exhaust Fan/Rangehood, Electrolux 3 way (12V/240V/Gas) Fridge with Freezer Compartment, Sink with Hot/Cold Water, and Good Bench Space. Truma Gas Heater & Hot Water System. Privacy Black Out Blinds and Fly Screens and Double Curtains on all the Windows. Good Fuel Efficiency and Good Mechanical Condition - 7,000 kms Without Missing a Beat. A Spacious but Cosy Motorhome measuring 5.85 metres.
Sold With 12 months MOT & Full Service History
Just completing a 10 month European tour (in Spain Returning Soon) and are reluctantly returning home to Australia
Extras:
►Large Wind Out Awning
►All Windows Double Glazed, and Insulated all Round (Very Warm Motorhome)
►2 CD/Radio players – one for driving - runs off car battery, one in the back for motorhome – runs off leisure battery or electricity
►Passenger Swivel Seat, and Both Front Seats Very Comfortable with Adjustable Armrests
►100lt/20gal Fresh Water Tank, and Underneath Waste Water Tanks, and Water Hose
► External Locker for 2 10kg Gas Bottles, 6kg UK Gas Bottle, and French Connections
►Rear Ladder and Roof Bars
►Bike Rack
►Top Box
►Good Tyres (1 Spare) - including 2 Brand New Rear Tyres
►Brand New Exhaust
►Safe, and Fiama External Rear Door Lock, and Front Door Strap (Very Secure)
►Tow Bar
►Outside table and chairs
►Levelling ramps
►Full Emergency Kit including Triangle, Vests etc. as Required in Europe, and First Aid Kit
►Mains 240v hook up with built in battery charger, and European and UK Electric Hook up Cables
►Guidebooks (Free/Cheap Campsites Guides to Europe & TOM TOM Camping Sites Data - highly recommended you get yourself a Tom Tom)
►BBQ
►No Smoking or Pets in the Motorhome
►Cutlery, Plates, Cups, Coffee Pot and Cooking implements
►Spare European Headlights
Lots and Lots of Extras – Too Much to List – Runs and Drives Great and is Ready to Go Round Europe. Contains Everything You Need for Wild Camping.
See Photos, and Inspections Welcome - Feel Free to Come and Have a Look/Test Drive
This Vehicle is Advertised Elsewhere and We Reserve the Right to Remove From Sale
Any questions/further information feel free to call John or Linda on 07766277478 or email linda.kable@gmail.com
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
This is where we are staying over xmas
http://www.camperparkcostablanca.com
the site has some good info re whats around here!
the site has some good info re whats around here!
South of France to the Costa Blanca
27 November 2007 … along the Italian Riviera through Albenga, Noli, Finale Ligure, and arrived at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare, 85 kms from the French border (enroute to South of France and then onto South of Spain for the winter). Stayed the night at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Hooray Howards Gone
Sorry this is still a few weeks old - watch out for the next exiting installment including - Monte Carlo, The French Grand Canyon and the Pont du Gard. Currently at Agde and on our way to Carcassone along the canal du midi then Spain by the weekend.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Italy
8 October 2007 Stayed in Ferlach, Austria.
9 October 2007 Mobile bakery van came beeping thru the rows of mobile homes so John bought bread. Drove to Europe’s (Austria’s) most beautiful mountain canyon ‘Tscheppaschlucht’ – 6.50 euro entry fee each!! Although after walking the amazing trail of waterfalls, steep and rugged rocks, all with steps, ladders and bridges for hikers it was well worth it – a spectacle of nature with the Autumn colours just so beautiful – reds and oranges. Linda had very bad hay fever which I have only ever had since hitting Europe!! Tea and beers and internet at café, and stayed at Ferlach again.
10 October 2007 Drove out of town and John reversed into something hard which smashed the back bumper bar and caused a hole! Had been bogged up previously!! Linda terrible allergies and took some of Barbara’s antihistamines. Drove back to Ferlach, John made tortellini and we stayed the night.
11 October 2007 Left Ferlach for Italy and drove approx. 100 km to Gemona del Friuli. An earthquake in 1976 killed 989 people and destroyed 15,000 houses and most of the town. Walked from van park to town - very pretty right on base of steep mountains with stone wall around the medieval part. Started up the steps 100m to the medieval castle that unfortunately was being restored from the ’76 earthquake damage so was fenced off. Looked at old church. John made magnificent stir-fry. Stayed Gemona del Friuli, Italy.
12 October 2007 Left at noon and drove thru Palmanova – a star shaped town, to Aquileia. It was established in 181 BC on the River Natissa as an important commercial centre along the ‘Amber Route’ and was one of the biggest Roman Empire cities - now declared a UNESCO world heritage site. By 10 BC, when Emperor Augustus received Herod the Great here, Aquileia was the 4th most important city in Italy – after Rome, Milan and Capua. In 314 Theodore the 1st patriarch built the basilica, but was sacked by Attila in 452. Patriarch Poppo rebuilt the basilica in the early 11th century but an earthquake destroyed much of Poppo’s work in 1348. Regional power inevitably passed to Venice. Saw roman columns from an ancient Roman metropolis and masterpieces of early Christianity (Basilica of Saint Eufemia dating back more than 1400 years, and the baptistry and basilica of Saint Maria delle Grazie – one of the oldest early Christian churches, and in the basilica of Aquileia (presently predominantly Romanesque and Gothic style) – Theodore’s extraordinary 4th century mosaic floor discovered below the nave floor at the beginning of the 20th century and is thought to be the earliest surviving remnant of any Christian church; and 12th century faded frescoes. Dedicated to the virgin Mary and Saints Ermacora and Fortunatus; in 313 AD after Emperor Constantine had issued the Edict of Milan, to bring an end to religious persecutions, the early Christians of Aquileia decided to construct the town’s first public bldg for worship. Walked along the archaeological excavations along the river where spices, perfumes and precious materials arrived from the orient, and amber glass and wine exported. Roman tombs once lined the roads into Aquileia.
13 October 2007 Relaxed, left at 2pm for Caorle on the north east coast of Italy. Went for a walk around the town, church and the port and bought a chess/checkers set. 1000s of mostly Italians and their motor homes camped here – stayed in Caorle.
14 October 2007 Drove to Jesola and had a walk around town and along the beach (town on eastern Adriatic coast). Quite eerie as eastern coast of Italy seasonal so looks and feels like a ghost town eg empty hotels for miles and very few people. Very bad winds along coast, stayed at Jesola.
15 October 2007 Left Jesola twds Venice approx. 17 km, stopped and stayed the night at Punta Sabbioni (opposite Venice across the channel). Ferry over to Venice (60 euros for both of us for 72 hrs unlimited ferries in and around Venice). Walked around Venice, inc’g St. Marks Square and the Basilica. Took the ferry down the Grand Canal. Amazing beautiful old buildings lining the canals, and gondolas and Gondoliers dressed in stripy tops, straw hats with a ribbon and black pants everywhere. Best thing about Venice besides its beauty, art, architecture and history is that there are NO cars, and worst thing – the tourists – must be horrendous in July-Aug!!
16 October 2007 Ferry to Venice in morning, and, ferry 1 down the Grand Canal. Walked half way back and had our rolls on water canal. Pigeons everywhere. Walked to Gallerie dell’ Accademia and got the audio guides. Saw many old masters paintings – mainly Tintoretto, and, Titian’s ‘Virgin and Child’ (arguably 2 of the best Venetian painters). Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
17 October 2007 Started car to drive 10 metres to empty waste water at appropriate drain, turned off motor to wait for another motor home using the facility and taking a long time…then she wouldn’t start again! Used park owners battery jump starter and she started, moved over drain and she turned herself off after 1 min. Another motor homer jump started us with his jumper leads. Paid and left but decided to drive for approx. 1 hour to recharge car battery. Grocery shop and, found gratuit motor home parking further along from previous 2 nights, still at Punta Sabbioni (what a pity we didn’t find it earlier – lots of motor homes – mostly Italian, one German). Met an interesting English couple, Alan and Jaki, who had lived in NZ for the past 7 years, Greece for 10 years previously, had sold everything and bought a new motor home, and were looking to buy a property in eastern Europe, Croatia or Montenegro to semi-retire on. Ferry to Burano – little Venice - where all the houses are painted in bright colours so that the fishermen can recognise their homes from out at sea – known for its beautiful lace, and, then to Murano, home of the famous Venetian glass – watched the men making it. Strolled the streets and went into many glass shops. Ferry from these 2 little islands to Venice.
18 October 2007 About to ferry over to Venice again as our tickets were valid for 3 days, but Alan and Jaki came over to chat about all our adventures. They had 2 dogs brought over from NZ – one looked very like Sophie! Read our books and relaxed for the rest of the day – bit of a walk to the lighthouse and ferry stop to Venice. Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
19 October 2007 Left Punta Sabbioni and the car started straight away luckily. Drove about 170km to Lido di Estensi and had a walk around town at night, and stayed the night. Very windy and cold.
20 October 2007 Continuing windy and cold but had a walk around Lido di Estensi and a cappuccino at a café. John went to internet café and came home with octopus, prawns and calamari for dinner. Stayed the night.
21 October 2007 Still cold and windy…drove to Rimini to a pay aires for motor homes but free today as Sunday. Left as John didn’t like it. Drove to Riccioni and stayed free on the beach at a car park under a flood light. Went to laundromat.
22 October 2007 Raining, windy and cold. Hopefully ‘aires’ (or ‘sosta’ Italian for pause eg often water, waste water dump for bathroom and kitchen and WC (toilet empty) – for motor homers) at Senigallia is open as free. However, found one at ‘Pasaro’ just by following camper car picture signs (everywhere in France and Italy). Shopping at Auchan in Fano. Stayed at sosta at Porto Potenza Picena (gratuit and free water) and we were the only motor home there.
23 October 2007 Drove through Porto San Elpidio and suddenly Italy more beautiful now…to Fermo – where we went to see the amazing 2000 year old Roman Cisterns – approx. 3 rows of 8 rooms, built by the Romans for a water supply for the Roman fleet and the town. Paid for entrance and a guided tour in English. The only others on the tour were a nice English couple whom we had interesting political discussions with. Continued driving through Porto San Giorgio, Pedaso, to San Veto Chietino, by which time it was dark and late so we stayed the night.
24 October 2007 Woke on sunrise to a magnificent view of a sea green flat sea behind a gorgeous old town. We went for a walk along the small beach, and the jetty - with these weird precariously balancing wooden structures with huge nets on them all along it, and there was not a soul around. We had read that south of Pescara the coast was less built up – and this seems so. No longer ghost towns but pretty little coastal towns. Water very calm – no waves, and an amazing greeny aqua colour. John thought the town a little run down but I thought it pretty. Drove to Larino and found ‘sosta camper’ but as per usual lately in Italy we were the only motor home. Italians holiday in July and August and France was packed with baby-boomer retiree couples in their motor homes (most have dogs in there too!!) in July-Aug. Now, most English retirees in motor homes have gone to the very south of Italy or Spain to escape the cold winter. Bit of walk around old part of Larino and looked at the Cathedral. Parked near Piazza in old part of Larino for the night – rather than camper car spot where there were no others - as under lights and safer.
25 October 2007 Garbage truck woke us up very early!! Went for an early morning walk to the park to look at some Roman relics and columns, and a sacrificial alter (John said they were crap). Larino apparently the most attractive of Molise towns with its medieval centre in the valley – yes, this is very pretty country and there are olives and grapes growing everywhere (Italy very mountainous). Had cappuccinos and chocolate croissants for b’fast where all the locals seemed to go ‘Centro Caffe Piazza Vittorio’’. Strangely to me, the Italians tend to stand at the bar/counter to drink their espresso (tiny cups of very strong thick coffee) in the morning! Museum next door shut as off season. Walked around amphitheatre from 400BC – very amazing; although we hadn’t seen Pompei or Rome at this stage. Drove to Benevento an old stop on the Roman route to Brindisi from Rome. John thought it looked like a giant slum and the sosta camper was locked. We did, however, drive past the Arch of Trajan –the major remnant of the Roman era with its intricate friezes built to guard its entrance to Benevento from the Appian way. That was the end of that town!! So drove to Paestum to see the Roman ruins. Had a bit of a walk along the road thru the ruins, and called Charles twice just to be sure – we don’t trust these European phone cards we keep buying that cost a bomb and don’t last long and keep cutting off every five minutes!!! Doesn’t help that we can’t read Italian – or French for that matter - and left msgs. Stayed at Paestum where a stray dog adopted us, and John made fantastic stir-fry. Stayed at Paestum.
26 October 2007 The dog guarded us all night and was still asleep at our door in the morning. Looked at the Paestum Museum full of Roman, previously Greek, 2500-3000 y.o. antiquities including tombs and a famous painting “the diver” thought to symbolise mans’ mortality and the shortness of life. Then walked around a huge area of Greek/Roman ruins and saw 3 amazing, imposing, huge Roman temples, and, a whole town that has been excavated. Great examples of upper-middle class Roman homes, with beautiful mosaic floors. The town was attacked and the inhabitants either died of malaria or fled for the hills, then forgotten for 1500 years. Had wonderful Italian gelatos.
27 October 2007 Left Paestum early and had a look at a beach 5 mins from Paestum. Drove to the Amalfi Coast Road and at Maiori were stopped and told we couldn’t use the road until 6am. When you see the Amalfi Coast Rd. you will understand!! Very narrow on sheer cliff and its amazing how even a tourist bus can get around it. Allowed to stop at next town but absolutely no parking, returned to Maiori and parked for 1 euro per 40 minutes (20 euros) until 5am the next morning. Pizza for dinner and walk around the beach and quaint town and church.
28 October 2007 John drove the rest of the Amalfi Coast – an amazing feat in itself if you saw how narrow the road is! commencing before sunrise. Just an incredibly beautiful coastline and we watched the sun rise – sheer cliffs, amazing precariously balanced crops (vines and orange trees?) and hotels built on rock many metres above the sea!. Drove through the edge of Sorrento, to Castellammare di Stabia (rubbish overflowing from bins everywhere – maybe the garbos are on strike?) but area felt unsafe, so we continued to Pompei. Found a sosta camper place 10 mins walk from the Roman city of Pompei (previously a Greek colony, but under Romans in 200 BC) that was buried under ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 63 AD and it’s thought 2000 perished, asphyxiated by the toxic fumes and volcanic debris. Excavations have revealed in precise and remarkable detail the ordinary life of Roman citizens during the imperial era – social conventions, class structure, domestic arrangements and its very high standard of living. We wandered the Pompei streets for several hours (very large area) and John liked the zebra crossings which were high stones across the cobbled roads at regular intervals, but also the mosaic floors in glorious patterns. Most Romans apparently couldn’t read so for eg a picture of a goat on a street corner meant goat street. The Forum was amazing – surrounded by the ruins of what would have been some of the town’s most important official bldgs – a basilica (usually a church, but here it was used for justice), the temples of Apollo and Jupiter, and, with imposing Mount Versuvius in the background. Also looked at the amphitheatre dating from 80 BC which once had room for 12,000 – more than half the town’s population, and, Villa dei Misteri, probably the best preserved of all Pompeii’s palatial houses, originally a 3rd century BC structure with beautiful paintings painted on the walls. The brothel was interesting, as the men coming into the port often couldn’t speak Latin, so chose from a series of vivid pictures on the wall! Walked back to our camper and Aagje, Jan and their 3 dogs Malu, Flo and Keesje parked next to us came to say hello – all from Holland but living in Hungary. Lovely people – we clicked with them immediately and were very compatible travelling companions - who invited us for cake and coffee in their camper. Stayed in Pompei.
29 October 2007 Aagje and Jan followed us to another Pompei Caravan Park right opposite the Roman ruins. All went out to a restaurant for pizza/Italian beer together. Late night playing cards (they taught us a variation of bridge) and sharing beers and lemon Chello together in our camper. Aagje and Jan always win! Stayed in Pompei.
30 October 2007 Walked to Pompei train station close to camp ground to get bus tickets to Mount Vesuvius. Walked from the top to the mouth of Mt V. Saw a wisp of steam rising from the crater! Talked with a couple from America who lived in Hawaii and were staying in Naples - but said not to bother visiting it. Good view of Naples and the coast line from the top. Shared dinner with Aagje and Jan, drinks and cards all night. Discussed our itineraries together as they wanted to go south and we wanted to head to Rome to meet Charles – eventually we all agreed on an itinerary. Stayed in Pompei.
31 October 2007 All left Pompei together and drove over an hour just to get out of Pompei through dirty traffic. Finally hit nice tree filled mountains and arrived at Montella. Raining, and cold as in the mountains. John cooked us all stir-fry for dinner, cards, lemon chello and red wine… great fun! Stayed in Montella.
1 November 2007 Rained all day. Cards, cheese and bread all day in Jan and Aagje’s flash camper. All had dinner together, fantastic pasta cooked by Aagje, and watched ‘Walk the Line’ about the life of Johnny Cash – in their camper. Stayed in Montella.
2 November 2007 Left with Aagje and Jan following us, through winding, steep roads with beautiful mountains on either side. Beautiful Autumn colours - trees all turning yellow. Stayed the night at Cassino (John, Aagje and I went for a walk around town) and played cards together in the evening. Linda had bad hay fever so took Aagje’s knock out pills. Stayed at Cassino.
3 November 2007 Left together for Rome. Found camping sosta 5km from centro. Watched dvds and played cards together. Stayed in Rome.
4 November 2007 All walked 5 kms to Centre of Rome which dates to before 753BC when Remus became to cities first monarch; but Rome has approx. 8000 years of history and is one of the most layered cities in the world. Visited the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano which was the main papal residence, and behind the alter Saints’ Peter and Paul’s heads reside. Walked around the colosseum, the Arch of Constantine and the Roman Forum (containing numerous Roman public buildings and monuments) – amazing stuff! Saw the speaking platform where Caesar and Cicero became famous speaking in eloquent Latin. Walked all around the centre of Rome and saw the Trevi Fountain.
5 November 2007 John and Jan went into Rome and looked at Saint Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Spanish Steps, and the Piazza Navona. Fantastic last night together with Jan and Aagje bbq cooked by Johnno and salads/dessert by Linda and Aagje. Stayed in Rome.
6 November 2007 John and Jan removed the fan belt on our camper as it’s been making a screeching noise which is getting louder. Ordered a new one which when John went to pick it up – was the wrong one! Put car back together, and sadly said good-bye to our friends Aagje and Jan and co. Linda did a big grocery shop before picking Charles up from one of Rome’s airports at 4pm. Drove to Charles yacht TARA OF LONDON which is only 2 years old, and is a very flash 40 foot French built vessel that includes a refrigerator, washing machine, 2 ensuites, flat screen tv, 2 solar panels and a desalination plant, at the Port of Rome (Ostia Porto de Roma). Linda cooked steak and snags, dessert of fruit flan. Ania had written us all a card saying to have a great holiday and thanking Charles for all his help – which included cakes cooked by Ania. Thanks Ania! XO Slept on Tara of London.
7 November 2007 Charles and John took one of the sails off to be cleaned. John fell into 19 degree or less seawater walking the passerelle, but surfaced luckily so I didn’t have to jump in to save him! Bit of a bump appeared on his head but he was all right. Linda made spaghetti marinara for dinner. All of us had drinks at Café Friends with some Americans we met who were all liveaboards (10 years and 20 years!) moored in the same port as Charles for the winter (until March 2008). Stayed in luxury on Tara of London.
8 November 2007 Linda did washing at the marina whilst Charles and John took the remaining 2 sails down. Had evening meal on Tara together – Greek salad and sausages. Stayed on Tara of London.
9 November 2007 Very windy and cold so we didn’t go into Rome as planned. We all caught the bus to Ostia to get Charles and John a phone card. Charles bought us all dinner at a very nice Indian Restaurant Called Öm. Very nice, many courses, they drank Indian red wine called Kuma Sutra which they said was very nice. Walked along beach footpath back to the port where Tara is housed, as the bus did not turn up! Very nice walk. G&T and coffee at Café Friends on way to Charles yacht. Slept on Tara.
10 November 2007 Charles, John and I set off together in the morning in our camping car for Collepepe (approx. 180 km/2.5 hrs) to meet my second cousins (Giovanna and Francesco) - Charles niece and nephew, and, their father Andrea, - Charles brother-in-law. Andrea and Giovanna were their to greet us with a warm welcome, and we had a lovely lunch together prepared by Giovanna. Andrea gave us a tour of their huge, beautiful medieval house, including its 29 bathrooms, that he renovated following earthquake damage in 1997. All furnished in antiques with lovely pictures on all the walls, and the most beautiful views of rolling hills in the distance and countryside through all the many windows. We all had dinner together prepared by Giovanna – thank you Giovanna. Slept in a beautiful apartment next to Charles apartment in the huge house in Collepepe.
11 November 2007 In the morning Francesco and his girlfriend from Estonia, Sirla, turned up at their fathers house. We all drove in 2 cars to a little town nearby in Perugia for mass with Don Mariano; who turned up at 11.30am for mass at 11am, preceeded by his housekeeper. He has been the priest there for 51years and everyone adores him – he is quite a character. Mass was another 20 minutes later as he said hello to everyone – kisses on both cheeks, and got dressed into his robes in front of the alter. Mass, of course, was all in Italian. Don Mariano asked John if he spoke English and when John replied yes he said “I don’t”! Beautiful little town and countryside. Franceso and Sirla gave us a tour of the countryside and their gorgeous 600 year old stone holiday house in the little town quite close to Collepepe with the most amazing beautiful views of the countryside out all the windows. Giovanna made lovely tortellini, salad and cheeses for lunch, and Sirla made fantastic peach pie for dessert, and Charles, Andrea and John drank wine from Andrea’s grapes/vineyard. Andrea gave Charles and I a bottle of olive oil from his olives, and me some honey from his friends bees. Group photo session and cups of tea… we didn’t stop eating from arrival to departure at Collepepe!!!! If Mum or Jen happen to be reading this – Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco all said to say hello to you both and they remembered fondly of your visit, and Jen’s twice, and, they asked after you both. I told them they were all welcome anytime in Australia of course – and to bring Charles. Then we had to say goodbye, and Charles, John and I departed for our return trip to TARA in our camping car and arrived at 8.30pm. Had some cheeses and cold meats and then Linda made boring cauliflower veg soup for dinner! (NB I have a ‘slight’ feeling that Charles and John are over my cooking as they always want to go out to the steak or Chinese restaurant quite close to Charles boat!! ;-) ) Slept in style on TARA.
12 November 2008 I screwed up as we were all going to bus into Rome and go and see the Museum Capitoline to see some famous statues. We even got lovely warm weather but alas, we all realised that most of Rome’s museums are closed Mondays!!! Charles found a small leak from his desal system on board. Charles took us to a fantastic Italian Steak Restaurant for lunch, 5 mins walk from TARA, right on the water overlooking all the moorings. Charles had bison for the first time, from Canada, and John had a 750g steak, and we all had lemon sorbets and cappacinos. Fantastic food if anyone is ever in the Port of Rome! Charles and Johnny had a little siesta on board in their cabins, Linda typed this blog. Charles and John put the dinghy back on the top of TARA. Bit sad we are departing tomorrow!
13 November 2008 Cleaned up Charles yacht a bit. Drove Charles to the airport so that he could fly home to London, where we said our good-byes boo hoo. John and I drove to the sosta camper 5 kms from centre of Rome (where we stayed with Agje and Jan before meeting Charles) for a few more days checking out Rome.
9 October 2007 Mobile bakery van came beeping thru the rows of mobile homes so John bought bread. Drove to Europe’s (Austria’s) most beautiful mountain canyon ‘Tscheppaschlucht’ – 6.50 euro entry fee each!! Although after walking the amazing trail of waterfalls, steep and rugged rocks, all with steps, ladders and bridges for hikers it was well worth it – a spectacle of nature with the Autumn colours just so beautiful – reds and oranges. Linda had very bad hay fever which I have only ever had since hitting Europe!! Tea and beers and internet at café, and stayed at Ferlach again.
10 October 2007 Drove out of town and John reversed into something hard which smashed the back bumper bar and caused a hole! Had been bogged up previously!! Linda terrible allergies and took some of Barbara’s antihistamines. Drove back to Ferlach, John made tortellini and we stayed the night.
11 October 2007 Left Ferlach for Italy and drove approx. 100 km to Gemona del Friuli. An earthquake in 1976 killed 989 people and destroyed 15,000 houses and most of the town. Walked from van park to town - very pretty right on base of steep mountains with stone wall around the medieval part. Started up the steps 100m to the medieval castle that unfortunately was being restored from the ’76 earthquake damage so was fenced off. Looked at old church. John made magnificent stir-fry. Stayed Gemona del Friuli, Italy.
12 October 2007 Left at noon and drove thru Palmanova – a star shaped town, to Aquileia. It was established in 181 BC on the River Natissa as an important commercial centre along the ‘Amber Route’ and was one of the biggest Roman Empire cities - now declared a UNESCO world heritage site. By 10 BC, when Emperor Augustus received Herod the Great here, Aquileia was the 4th most important city in Italy – after Rome, Milan and Capua. In 314 Theodore the 1st patriarch built the basilica, but was sacked by Attila in 452. Patriarch Poppo rebuilt the basilica in the early 11th century but an earthquake destroyed much of Poppo’s work in 1348. Regional power inevitably passed to Venice. Saw roman columns from an ancient Roman metropolis and masterpieces of early Christianity (Basilica of Saint Eufemia dating back more than 1400 years, and the baptistry and basilica of Saint Maria delle Grazie – one of the oldest early Christian churches, and in the basilica of Aquileia (presently predominantly Romanesque and Gothic style) – Theodore’s extraordinary 4th century mosaic floor discovered below the nave floor at the beginning of the 20th century and is thought to be the earliest surviving remnant of any Christian church; and 12th century faded frescoes. Dedicated to the virgin Mary and Saints Ermacora and Fortunatus; in 313 AD after Emperor Constantine had issued the Edict of Milan, to bring an end to religious persecutions, the early Christians of Aquileia decided to construct the town’s first public bldg for worship. Walked along the archaeological excavations along the river where spices, perfumes and precious materials arrived from the orient, and amber glass and wine exported. Roman tombs once lined the roads into Aquileia.
13 October 2007 Relaxed, left at 2pm for Caorle on the north east coast of Italy. Went for a walk around the town, church and the port and bought a chess/checkers set. 1000s of mostly Italians and their motor homes camped here – stayed in Caorle.
14 October 2007 Drove to Jesola and had a walk around town and along the beach (town on eastern Adriatic coast). Quite eerie as eastern coast of Italy seasonal so looks and feels like a ghost town eg empty hotels for miles and very few people. Very bad winds along coast, stayed at Jesola.
15 October 2007 Left Jesola twds Venice approx. 17 km, stopped and stayed the night at Punta Sabbioni (opposite Venice across the channel). Ferry over to Venice (60 euros for both of us for 72 hrs unlimited ferries in and around Venice). Walked around Venice, inc’g St. Marks Square and the Basilica. Took the ferry down the Grand Canal. Amazing beautiful old buildings lining the canals, and gondolas and Gondoliers dressed in stripy tops, straw hats with a ribbon and black pants everywhere. Best thing about Venice besides its beauty, art, architecture and history is that there are NO cars, and worst thing – the tourists – must be horrendous in July-Aug!!
16 October 2007 Ferry to Venice in morning, and, ferry 1 down the Grand Canal. Walked half way back and had our rolls on water canal. Pigeons everywhere. Walked to Gallerie dell’ Accademia and got the audio guides. Saw many old masters paintings – mainly Tintoretto, and, Titian’s ‘Virgin and Child’ (arguably 2 of the best Venetian painters). Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
17 October 2007 Started car to drive 10 metres to empty waste water at appropriate drain, turned off motor to wait for another motor home using the facility and taking a long time…then she wouldn’t start again! Used park owners battery jump starter and she started, moved over drain and she turned herself off after 1 min. Another motor homer jump started us with his jumper leads. Paid and left but decided to drive for approx. 1 hour to recharge car battery. Grocery shop and, found gratuit motor home parking further along from previous 2 nights, still at Punta Sabbioni (what a pity we didn’t find it earlier – lots of motor homes – mostly Italian, one German). Met an interesting English couple, Alan and Jaki, who had lived in NZ for the past 7 years, Greece for 10 years previously, had sold everything and bought a new motor home, and were looking to buy a property in eastern Europe, Croatia or Montenegro to semi-retire on. Ferry to Burano – little Venice - where all the houses are painted in bright colours so that the fishermen can recognise their homes from out at sea – known for its beautiful lace, and, then to Murano, home of the famous Venetian glass – watched the men making it. Strolled the streets and went into many glass shops. Ferry from these 2 little islands to Venice.
18 October 2007 About to ferry over to Venice again as our tickets were valid for 3 days, but Alan and Jaki came over to chat about all our adventures. They had 2 dogs brought over from NZ – one looked very like Sophie! Read our books and relaxed for the rest of the day – bit of a walk to the lighthouse and ferry stop to Venice. Stayed at Punta Sabbioni again.
19 October 2007 Left Punta Sabbioni and the car started straight away luckily. Drove about 170km to Lido di Estensi and had a walk around town at night, and stayed the night. Very windy and cold.
20 October 2007 Continuing windy and cold but had a walk around Lido di Estensi and a cappuccino at a café. John went to internet café and came home with octopus, prawns and calamari for dinner. Stayed the night.
21 October 2007 Still cold and windy…drove to Rimini to a pay aires for motor homes but free today as Sunday. Left as John didn’t like it. Drove to Riccioni and stayed free on the beach at a car park under a flood light. Went to laundromat.
22 October 2007 Raining, windy and cold. Hopefully ‘aires’ (or ‘sosta’ Italian for pause eg often water, waste water dump for bathroom and kitchen and WC (toilet empty) – for motor homers) at Senigallia is open as free. However, found one at ‘Pasaro’ just by following camper car picture signs (everywhere in France and Italy). Shopping at Auchan in Fano. Stayed at sosta at Porto Potenza Picena (gratuit and free water) and we were the only motor home there.
23 October 2007 Drove through Porto San Elpidio and suddenly Italy more beautiful now…to Fermo – where we went to see the amazing 2000 year old Roman Cisterns – approx. 3 rows of 8 rooms, built by the Romans for a water supply for the Roman fleet and the town. Paid for entrance and a guided tour in English. The only others on the tour were a nice English couple whom we had interesting political discussions with. Continued driving through Porto San Giorgio, Pedaso, to San Veto Chietino, by which time it was dark and late so we stayed the night.
24 October 2007 Woke on sunrise to a magnificent view of a sea green flat sea behind a gorgeous old town. We went for a walk along the small beach, and the jetty - with these weird precariously balancing wooden structures with huge nets on them all along it, and there was not a soul around. We had read that south of Pescara the coast was less built up – and this seems so. No longer ghost towns but pretty little coastal towns. Water very calm – no waves, and an amazing greeny aqua colour. John thought the town a little run down but I thought it pretty. Drove to Larino and found ‘sosta camper’ but as per usual lately in Italy we were the only motor home. Italians holiday in July and August and France was packed with baby-boomer retiree couples in their motor homes (most have dogs in there too!!) in July-Aug. Now, most English retirees in motor homes have gone to the very south of Italy or Spain to escape the cold winter. Bit of walk around old part of Larino and looked at the Cathedral. Parked near Piazza in old part of Larino for the night – rather than camper car spot where there were no others - as under lights and safer.
25 October 2007 Garbage truck woke us up very early!! Went for an early morning walk to the park to look at some Roman relics and columns, and a sacrificial alter (John said they were crap). Larino apparently the most attractive of Molise towns with its medieval centre in the valley – yes, this is very pretty country and there are olives and grapes growing everywhere (Italy very mountainous). Had cappuccinos and chocolate croissants for b’fast where all the locals seemed to go ‘Centro Caffe Piazza Vittorio’’. Strangely to me, the Italians tend to stand at the bar/counter to drink their espresso (tiny cups of very strong thick coffee) in the morning! Museum next door shut as off season. Walked around amphitheatre from 400BC – very amazing; although we hadn’t seen Pompei or Rome at this stage. Drove to Benevento an old stop on the Roman route to Brindisi from Rome. John thought it looked like a giant slum and the sosta camper was locked. We did, however, drive past the Arch of Trajan –the major remnant of the Roman era with its intricate friezes built to guard its entrance to Benevento from the Appian way. That was the end of that town!! So drove to Paestum to see the Roman ruins. Had a bit of a walk along the road thru the ruins, and called Charles twice just to be sure – we don’t trust these European phone cards we keep buying that cost a bomb and don’t last long and keep cutting off every five minutes!!! Doesn’t help that we can’t read Italian – or French for that matter - and left msgs. Stayed at Paestum where a stray dog adopted us, and John made fantastic stir-fry. Stayed at Paestum.
26 October 2007 The dog guarded us all night and was still asleep at our door in the morning. Looked at the Paestum Museum full of Roman, previously Greek, 2500-3000 y.o. antiquities including tombs and a famous painting “the diver” thought to symbolise mans’ mortality and the shortness of life. Then walked around a huge area of Greek/Roman ruins and saw 3 amazing, imposing, huge Roman temples, and, a whole town that has been excavated. Great examples of upper-middle class Roman homes, with beautiful mosaic floors. The town was attacked and the inhabitants either died of malaria or fled for the hills, then forgotten for 1500 years. Had wonderful Italian gelatos.
27 October 2007 Left Paestum early and had a look at a beach 5 mins from Paestum. Drove to the Amalfi Coast Road and at Maiori were stopped and told we couldn’t use the road until 6am. When you see the Amalfi Coast Rd. you will understand!! Very narrow on sheer cliff and its amazing how even a tourist bus can get around it. Allowed to stop at next town but absolutely no parking, returned to Maiori and parked for 1 euro per 40 minutes (20 euros) until 5am the next morning. Pizza for dinner and walk around the beach and quaint town and church.
28 October 2007 John drove the rest of the Amalfi Coast – an amazing feat in itself if you saw how narrow the road is! commencing before sunrise. Just an incredibly beautiful coastline and we watched the sun rise – sheer cliffs, amazing precariously balanced crops (vines and orange trees?) and hotels built on rock many metres above the sea!. Drove through the edge of Sorrento, to Castellammare di Stabia (rubbish overflowing from bins everywhere – maybe the garbos are on strike?) but area felt unsafe, so we continued to Pompei. Found a sosta camper place 10 mins walk from the Roman city of Pompei (previously a Greek colony, but under Romans in 200 BC) that was buried under ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 63 AD and it’s thought 2000 perished, asphyxiated by the toxic fumes and volcanic debris. Excavations have revealed in precise and remarkable detail the ordinary life of Roman citizens during the imperial era – social conventions, class structure, domestic arrangements and its very high standard of living. We wandered the Pompei streets for several hours (very large area) and John liked the zebra crossings which were high stones across the cobbled roads at regular intervals, but also the mosaic floors in glorious patterns. Most Romans apparently couldn’t read so for eg a picture of a goat on a street corner meant goat street. The Forum was amazing – surrounded by the ruins of what would have been some of the town’s most important official bldgs – a basilica (usually a church, but here it was used for justice), the temples of Apollo and Jupiter, and, with imposing Mount Versuvius in the background. Also looked at the amphitheatre dating from 80 BC which once had room for 12,000 – more than half the town’s population, and, Villa dei Misteri, probably the best preserved of all Pompeii’s palatial houses, originally a 3rd century BC structure with beautiful paintings painted on the walls. The brothel was interesting, as the men coming into the port often couldn’t speak Latin, so chose from a series of vivid pictures on the wall! Walked back to our camper and Aagje, Jan and their 3 dogs Malu, Flo and Keesje parked next to us came to say hello – all from Holland but living in Hungary. Lovely people – we clicked with them immediately and were very compatible travelling companions - who invited us for cake and coffee in their camper. Stayed in Pompei.
29 October 2007 Aagje and Jan followed us to another Pompei Caravan Park right opposite the Roman ruins. All went out to a restaurant for pizza/Italian beer together. Late night playing cards (they taught us a variation of bridge) and sharing beers and lemon Chello together in our camper. Aagje and Jan always win! Stayed in Pompei.
30 October 2007 Walked to Pompei train station close to camp ground to get bus tickets to Mount Vesuvius. Walked from the top to the mouth of Mt V. Saw a wisp of steam rising from the crater! Talked with a couple from America who lived in Hawaii and were staying in Naples - but said not to bother visiting it. Good view of Naples and the coast line from the top. Shared dinner with Aagje and Jan, drinks and cards all night. Discussed our itineraries together as they wanted to go south and we wanted to head to Rome to meet Charles – eventually we all agreed on an itinerary. Stayed in Pompei.
31 October 2007 All left Pompei together and drove over an hour just to get out of Pompei through dirty traffic. Finally hit nice tree filled mountains and arrived at Montella. Raining, and cold as in the mountains. John cooked us all stir-fry for dinner, cards, lemon chello and red wine… great fun! Stayed in Montella.
1 November 2007 Rained all day. Cards, cheese and bread all day in Jan and Aagje’s flash camper. All had dinner together, fantastic pasta cooked by Aagje, and watched ‘Walk the Line’ about the life of Johnny Cash – in their camper. Stayed in Montella.
2 November 2007 Left with Aagje and Jan following us, through winding, steep roads with beautiful mountains on either side. Beautiful Autumn colours - trees all turning yellow. Stayed the night at Cassino (John, Aagje and I went for a walk around town) and played cards together in the evening. Linda had bad hay fever so took Aagje’s knock out pills. Stayed at Cassino.
3 November 2007 Left together for Rome. Found camping sosta 5km from centro. Watched dvds and played cards together. Stayed in Rome.
4 November 2007 All walked 5 kms to Centre of Rome which dates to before 753BC when Remus became to cities first monarch; but Rome has approx. 8000 years of history and is one of the most layered cities in the world. Visited the basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano which was the main papal residence, and behind the alter Saints’ Peter and Paul’s heads reside. Walked around the colosseum, the Arch of Constantine and the Roman Forum (containing numerous Roman public buildings and monuments) – amazing stuff! Saw the speaking platform where Caesar and Cicero became famous speaking in eloquent Latin. Walked all around the centre of Rome and saw the Trevi Fountain.
5 November 2007 John and Jan went into Rome and looked at Saint Peter’s, the Pantheon, and the Spanish Steps, and the Piazza Navona. Fantastic last night together with Jan and Aagje bbq cooked by Johnno and salads/dessert by Linda and Aagje. Stayed in Rome.
6 November 2007 John and Jan removed the fan belt on our camper as it’s been making a screeching noise which is getting louder. Ordered a new one which when John went to pick it up – was the wrong one! Put car back together, and sadly said good-bye to our friends Aagje and Jan and co. Linda did a big grocery shop before picking Charles up from one of Rome’s airports at 4pm. Drove to Charles yacht TARA OF LONDON which is only 2 years old, and is a very flash 40 foot French built vessel that includes a refrigerator, washing machine, 2 ensuites, flat screen tv, 2 solar panels and a desalination plant, at the Port of Rome (Ostia Porto de Roma). Linda cooked steak and snags, dessert of fruit flan. Ania had written us all a card saying to have a great holiday and thanking Charles for all his help – which included cakes cooked by Ania. Thanks Ania! XO Slept on Tara of London.
7 November 2007 Charles and John took one of the sails off to be cleaned. John fell into 19 degree or less seawater walking the passerelle, but surfaced luckily so I didn’t have to jump in to save him! Bit of a bump appeared on his head but he was all right. Linda made spaghetti marinara for dinner. All of us had drinks at Café Friends with some Americans we met who were all liveaboards (10 years and 20 years!) moored in the same port as Charles for the winter (until March 2008). Stayed in luxury on Tara of London.
8 November 2007 Linda did washing at the marina whilst Charles and John took the remaining 2 sails down. Had evening meal on Tara together – Greek salad and sausages. Stayed on Tara of London.
9 November 2007 Very windy and cold so we didn’t go into Rome as planned. We all caught the bus to Ostia to get Charles and John a phone card. Charles bought us all dinner at a very nice Indian Restaurant Called Öm. Very nice, many courses, they drank Indian red wine called Kuma Sutra which they said was very nice. Walked along beach footpath back to the port where Tara is housed, as the bus did not turn up! Very nice walk. G&T and coffee at Café Friends on way to Charles yacht. Slept on Tara.
10 November 2007 Charles, John and I set off together in the morning in our camping car for Collepepe (approx. 180 km/2.5 hrs) to meet my second cousins (Giovanna and Francesco) - Charles niece and nephew, and, their father Andrea, - Charles brother-in-law. Andrea and Giovanna were their to greet us with a warm welcome, and we had a lovely lunch together prepared by Giovanna. Andrea gave us a tour of their huge, beautiful medieval house, including its 29 bathrooms, that he renovated following earthquake damage in 1997. All furnished in antiques with lovely pictures on all the walls, and the most beautiful views of rolling hills in the distance and countryside through all the many windows. We all had dinner together prepared by Giovanna – thank you Giovanna. Slept in a beautiful apartment next to Charles apartment in the huge house in Collepepe.
11 November 2007 In the morning Francesco and his girlfriend from Estonia, Sirla, turned up at their fathers house. We all drove in 2 cars to a little town nearby in Perugia for mass with Don Mariano; who turned up at 11.30am for mass at 11am, preceeded by his housekeeper. He has been the priest there for 51years and everyone adores him – he is quite a character. Mass was another 20 minutes later as he said hello to everyone – kisses on both cheeks, and got dressed into his robes in front of the alter. Mass, of course, was all in Italian. Don Mariano asked John if he spoke English and when John replied yes he said “I don’t”! Beautiful little town and countryside. Franceso and Sirla gave us a tour of the countryside and their gorgeous 600 year old stone holiday house in the little town quite close to Collepepe with the most amazing beautiful views of the countryside out all the windows. Giovanna made lovely tortellini, salad and cheeses for lunch, and Sirla made fantastic peach pie for dessert, and Charles, Andrea and John drank wine from Andrea’s grapes/vineyard. Andrea gave Charles and I a bottle of olive oil from his olives, and me some honey from his friends bees. Group photo session and cups of tea… we didn’t stop eating from arrival to departure at Collepepe!!!! If Mum or Jen happen to be reading this – Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco all said to say hello to you both and they remembered fondly of your visit, and Jen’s twice, and, they asked after you both. I told them they were all welcome anytime in Australia of course – and to bring Charles. Then we had to say goodbye, and Charles, John and I departed for our return trip to TARA in our camping car and arrived at 8.30pm. Had some cheeses and cold meats and then Linda made boring cauliflower veg soup for dinner! (NB I have a ‘slight’ feeling that Charles and John are over my cooking as they always want to go out to the steak or Chinese restaurant quite close to Charles boat!! ;-) ) Slept in style on TARA.
12 November 2008 I screwed up as we were all going to bus into Rome and go and see the Museum Capitoline to see some famous statues. We even got lovely warm weather but alas, we all realised that most of Rome’s museums are closed Mondays!!! Charles found a small leak from his desal system on board. Charles took us to a fantastic Italian Steak Restaurant for lunch, 5 mins walk from TARA, right on the water overlooking all the moorings. Charles had bison for the first time, from Canada, and John had a 750g steak, and we all had lemon sorbets and cappacinos. Fantastic food if anyone is ever in the Port of Rome! Charles and Johnny had a little siesta on board in their cabins, Linda typed this blog. Charles and John put the dinghy back on the top of TARA. Bit sad we are departing tomorrow!
13 November 2008 Cleaned up Charles yacht a bit. Drove Charles to the airport so that he could fly home to London, where we said our good-byes boo hoo. John and I drove to the sosta camper 5 kms from centre of Rome (where we stayed with Agje and Jan before meeting Charles) for a few more days checking out Rome.
Monday, October 15, 2007
The Alps etc
Hi all
we are now in venice which is very beutiful. Italy is much warmer than Austria, Germany and Switzerland (Alps).
Check out some new pics - not in any particular order.
John and linda xxxo
4.9.7Well, the Grenoble smashed window, stolen video camera, pack and my rain jacket ordeal over. Got window replaced today. Bought John sneakers for 14.95 euros (truly extraordinary in itself as they were under $500!!) Drove to Aiguebelle free camping aires. Lovely town surrounded by mountains in distance (think Ordor in Lord of the Rings ie high rocky mountains).
5.9.7Drove to Albertville where John almost killed a French women on roundabout and then hit a concrete block at the service station! albeit he screwed the car back together. Stopped for prawns on hill with magnificent view of Mont Blanc – peaks covered in blindingly white snow. Stayed at Saint Gervais where we met Rolland and his wife Barbara both English and retired who live permanently in their flash new van, and Catherine and Brian (Aussies from Adelaide who travel in their motorhome for half the year at a time). Late night with 5 of us chatting and drinking in our van. Improvised on space!
6.9.7Brian and Catherine came to say goodbye and we swapped dvds for books (inc. German and Italian motorhoming camping aires books). Walk into Alpine town, beautiful clear blue skies, mkts. Rolland and John had a very serious travel talk re where to visit in Spain – and where not to!
7.9.7Up early, drove to Chamonix in Rolland and Barbara’s motorhome. Took cable car to Aiguille du Midi (3842m) then smaller cable car to Pointe Helbronner on the Italian side (3462m). Magnificent day and views eg Mont Blanc (4809m) and Matterhorn. Expensive at A$180 but well worth it - John was very happy as he loves mountains. Amazing standing at a point so high up above the clouds looking at Switzerland (Materhorn), Italy and France and kms of very steep inhospitable rock mountains of snow, ice and glaciers.
8.9.7Flat battery! John played Sudoku – how unusual… Rollies birthday so tonight we all sat outside (David and Hazel, Rolly and Barb) drinking… John drank 4 guinesses, Dav’s whisky, Rolly’s Aust wine and John’s French wine!! ;-)
9.9.7Lovely day.. went for walk around the countryside. Beautiful mountains all around. Repeat of last night…!
10.9.07 Dave jump started our car. Charles in Croatia on friends yacht til 24 Sept. Left our dear friends, drove thought Sallances, Le Brouchet, Bonneville, Annemasse, Gaillard, to Lake Geneva – picture postcard pretty. Lunch on lake – fed swans. Through Thonon Les Bains, Evian Les Bains to Meillerie on Lake Leiman (other end of Lake Geneva). Beautiful spot, tiny town where everyone knew each other, grandparents with grandchildren, swans, men fishing, quiet, slow, picturesque – little walk from one side to the other.
11.9.07 Drove through Swiss border and requested to show our passports. Drove through Monthey, Aigle, Coldupillon to Gstaad (pretentious shops, where tennis open held). Lunch at Spiez on Lake – lovely and fed the swans. Stayed at Lauterbrunnen which is reputed to be the most beautiful valley in Europe. Must say – just stunning and we have never seen anything like it. Walked into town to get some swiss francs (1 CHF=1A$ approx.) All the Brits we’ve met warn us of how expensive Switzerland is.. but no more expensive than the rest of Europe for Australians eg ridiculously expensive!!
12.9.07 Fifteen km VERY steep hike today – 750m up, then down, from our campsite to Stechelberg, Gimmelwald, Murren, Lauterbrunnen, and back to our camp. Saw the snow capped Eiger (3970m), Monch (4107m), and Jungfrau (4158m). Almost at Murren (a tiny Swiss town only accessible by cable car or foot!) when the sound of cow bells could be heard – very loud – all over Switzerland the cows wear these traditional huge bells. One cow took a liking to John and started licking him!! Met 2 Israeli guys so talked biology, religion and agriculture with them for the walk down.
13.9.07 Walked from our campsite at Lauterbrunnen (796m) to Kleine Scheidegg (2061m) to Grindelwald (1034m) under the face of the mightly Eiger – train from here to Lauterbrunnen. John saved us 8CHF by making us walk to the next stop!!!! We have had great weather in the Alps (Mont Blanc also good). Saw the Eiger all day as beautiful clear day. The sign for this walk said “for experienced hikers only with suitable footwear” but I (Linda) made it anyway!!!
14.9.07 Drove the Susten Pass (2224m) and stayed right on the top with amazing views of mountains and glaciers. John totally in his element.
15.9.09 Drove through Meinen, Wassen, Amsteg, Silenen, and Schwyz where we discovered 1st and 2nd gear had disappeared. Called Charles for advice...again…. Met Reinhard Schuster (Argentinian German) who kindly allowed us to park outside his tea importing business with power and water. Rang us this night to invite us for b’fast with he and his partner tomorrow.
16.9.07 Reinhard (same age as Johnno) picked us up. Had a lovely breakfast with Reinhard and Cynthia (the local dentist) overlooking Swiss mountains discussing the problems that occurred in Argentina, and how they came to be living in Schwyz Switzerland. Went for a walk together, picture perfect Switzerland, more cow bells...
17.9.07 Drove frow Schwyz to Brunnen at 4am in the morning along a flat road as our car was pretty sick. VW Brunnen dodged up part and told us to drive to Ebikon a suburb of Lucerne (Luzern) 38 kms away. Waited 2 hours as only one person spoke English and he was out of the office. Picked up car at 5pm. Walked all around beautiful Lucerne (Charles grandmother on fathers side from here), and lunch on Four Forest Canton Lake. Lucerne seems a wealthy area. Looked at beautiful ornate Jesuit church. Stayed on Lake near Arth - rained.
18.9.07 Drove through Altmat – very scenic, towns in green valleys surrounded by mountains on every horizon, through Biberbrugg to Rapperswill. Walked around beautiful and lovely town of Rapperswill, the old part, around fish markets and lake. Camped outside Rapperswill.
19.9.07 Drove through Herisau to St Gallen then through Austrian border at Hodist. Passports requested again. Drove around huge lake and through Horbranz through Germany, through Isny, camped at Nesselwang.
20.9.07 Went for walk in mountains of Nesselwang (900m) to Maria Trost, Kappelar Alp to Sportheim Bock (1500m) where we had a cup of tea/German beer at café right up there! Walked back to our motorhome. Nice German man told us we had a flat tyre and used his pump to pump it up. Stayed in Bavaria Nesselwang again.
21.9.07 Drove to Fussen in Bavaria in German Alps. Got tyre puncture fixed. Went for 14km walk to King Ludwig II impressive Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles and saw Lake Swansee (very beautiful) where Tschaikovsky was inspired to create Swan Lake. The king was a reclusive, friendless drunk but loved the arts, and his spending was his downfall. Al – we must discuss! It is reputed that he went mad, and he was found dead in the lake with his doctor. Met Manreim a Swedish lone traveller on walk home and had dinner together at The Romerkeller. Local Bavarian fare called schweinshaxe – pork knuckle, saukraut and dumplings and they had Bavarian bier – Konig Ludwig. Stayed at Fussen.
22.9.07 Met Gerard en Helma a lovely retired Dutch couple who gave us very good travelling advice and were very helpful to Johnny by lending him their travelling books. Walk around Weilheim and stayed the night.
23.9.07 Train into Munich and walked around Oktoberfest and watched the parade. Lots of traditional costume (John now wants a pair of lederhose). Walked around Munich which had the first Jewish concentration camp – Dachau – which became a model for all others, opened by the Nazis in 1933 and in use until 1945. Thousands died from overwork, mass executions, unadulterated brutality, mistreatment, starvation, disease, exposure, torture, and medical experiments in this atrociously overcrowded prison where prisoners were humiliated and tortured by SS guards. Hitler staged a failed coup in Munich after WWI. Train back to Weilheim.
24.9.07 Left Weilheim Germany (Bavaria) for Wolfratshausen where we stayed. Met Kris (26) and Julie (24) both Canadians doing what we are doing – see www.krisandjulie.blogspot.com Long night of discussion in our van…Shower hose can’t be lengthened by VW Agent there.
25.9.07 Rained. Stayed at Wolfratshausen again. Slept in as up all night.
26.9.07 Rain continued… John went into Munich and saw the Hoptbrauhaus (Hitler’s favourite pub where much third Reich planning took place). Stayed at Wolfratshausen again.
27.9.07 Drove 25km to Bad Tolz. Cold. Walked around town, up walking track through trees with views of river to church (huge statues) with nice view of town and meandering river below. Bought whistling kettle and some fuel for stove, and embroidered cushion covers.
28.9.07 Left Bad Tolz over Isar River bridge to Bad Reichenhall (120kms)
29.9.07 Drove to Berchtesgaden – bus to Obersalzberg, bus to Kehlsteinhaus (US called it Eagles Nest) which is Germany’s highest road and only accessible by bus. The house there is at 1800m and was a gift to Hitler for his 50th birthday. However, he rarely visited as he was reputed to have a fear of heights. Hitler bought Wachenfeld House in the summer of 1933 which he’d rented since 1928 and between ’33-’36 had it rebuilt in 2 construction phases to become the impressive residence ‘the Berghof’ in Obersalzberg where he then evicted all residents of the town. One artist refused to leave and was imprisoned in Dachau in Munich for 2 years. It became fuhrersperrgebiet (the fuchrers off-limits area). Looked at Dokumentation Kentre with English audioguide all about the third Reich. Very moving and informative. In 1933 Germans could only vote for Hitlers party as earlier 1933 elections saw them receive only 43% of the German vote. Hitler then terrorised/ousted and locked up all political opposition! Interesting history about the propaganda machine, Nuerumburg (incorrect spelling) trials where most of Hitler’s men were hung or suicided beforehand, eugenics for a super, pure blood, race etc. Just read an English women’s diary throughout WWII so interesting the different perspectives.
30.9.07 Drove to Salzberg across Austrian border through Walserberg. Beautiful old city in Austrian Alps. Walked along the Salzach River which runs through Salzberg. Looked at Mozart’s home 250 years ago (apartment) – he played his first concert at age 6 in Salzberg, walked through the 13th century catacombs hewn out of rock of the Monchsberg – early Christian origin. The Sounds of Music filmed in Salzberg. Walked up to Hohensalzberg fortress high above the old town and central Europe’s largest, and completely preserved fortress dating from the 11th century. Walked through Salzberg’s garden at night, very formal, horse and unicorn statues and Greek urns abound the flower beds. Walked back to motorhome late and got lost – stayed lovely spot overlooking beautiful Salzberg below and mountains all around horizons.
1.10.07 Hard to believe all these places are under snow in winter but it is getting colder. Leaves changing to orange and red and falling – very picturesque…stayed in Salzberg again.
2.10.07 Left Salzberg and drove along the Danube River through Linz reputed to be Hitler’s favourite town but just industry now as far as we could see eg smog everywhere! to Waldhausen im Strudengau (stayed the night on small lake). Walked around lake at night.
3.10.07 Drove to Kritzendorf and trained into Vienna (notably baroque and renaissance architecture Mark). Walked around all the beautiful buildings until 7pm – Rathaus (town hall/council chambers), palace, church. Vienna home to Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert, Freud, Klimt (the Kiss) and the Habsburgs – Schonbrunn Palace – Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) who was assassinated in Geneva in 1898. Also home to the Lipizzaner Spanish Horse Riding School (only one in the world and run for 400 years). Strangely all of Captain Cook’s entire collection of objects and gifts from his travels from 1768 from Pacific Islands to North America are housed here in Vienna! Largest collection of Bruegels, Caravaggios, Raphaels, Rembrandts, Rubens and Titians apparently in Vienna.
4.10.07 Leaves changing to vivid reds and falling. By Oct there will be no leaves ready for the snow. Hazelnuts very loudly kept falling on our motorhome – Confusius say do not park under hazelnut tree! Train from Kritzendorf to Vienna again. Viewed the Klimt gallery – interesting character. Walked all day around Vienna – palaces, gardens, Roman ruins (found in 1990, 2000 years old and they even had under floor heating!) and all along the Danube River. Had a lovely authentic Turkish lunch together along with Turkish Delight and Turkish strong coffee. Restaurant such a walk that it was too late to see Sisi’s palace. Bought 16 2nd hand books in English (hard to find) for 12 euros. Monet to Picasso at Albertina. Train home to Kritzendorf.
5.10.07 I now know what its like to live like a gypsy - with no fixed address – a citizen of Europe! Left Kritzendorf, 120 km to Veitsch. Steep 40 min walk to Pilger Kreuz – great view of town and surrounds – mountains and leaves all brilliant red and orange. Stayed in Veitsch.
6.10.07 Left for Judenburg about 80 km away where we stayed.
7.10.07 Drove to Ferlach where we stayed – the most southern town in Austria. Read books, cooked, washed clothes – bit of a walk.
8.10.07 Text our English friends Rolly, Barb etc to meet up but they are in the heel of Italy – Brindisi – so may not get to meet them this time around which is sad. Tomorrow we leave for Italy.
we are now in venice which is very beutiful. Italy is much warmer than Austria, Germany and Switzerland (Alps).
Check out some new pics - not in any particular order.
John and linda xxxo
4.9.7Well, the Grenoble smashed window, stolen video camera, pack and my rain jacket ordeal over. Got window replaced today. Bought John sneakers for 14.95 euros (truly extraordinary in itself as they were under $500!!) Drove to Aiguebelle free camping aires. Lovely town surrounded by mountains in distance (think Ordor in Lord of the Rings ie high rocky mountains).
5.9.7Drove to Albertville where John almost killed a French women on roundabout and then hit a concrete block at the service station! albeit he screwed the car back together. Stopped for prawns on hill with magnificent view of Mont Blanc – peaks covered in blindingly white snow. Stayed at Saint Gervais where we met Rolland and his wife Barbara both English and retired who live permanently in their flash new van, and Catherine and Brian (Aussies from Adelaide who travel in their motorhome for half the year at a time). Late night with 5 of us chatting and drinking in our van. Improvised on space!
6.9.7Brian and Catherine came to say goodbye and we swapped dvds for books (inc. German and Italian motorhoming camping aires books). Walk into Alpine town, beautiful clear blue skies, mkts. Rolland and John had a very serious travel talk re where to visit in Spain – and where not to!
7.9.7Up early, drove to Chamonix in Rolland and Barbara’s motorhome. Took cable car to Aiguille du Midi (3842m) then smaller cable car to Pointe Helbronner on the Italian side (3462m). Magnificent day and views eg Mont Blanc (4809m) and Matterhorn. Expensive at A$180 but well worth it - John was very happy as he loves mountains. Amazing standing at a point so high up above the clouds looking at Switzerland (Materhorn), Italy and France and kms of very steep inhospitable rock mountains of snow, ice and glaciers.
8.9.7Flat battery! John played Sudoku – how unusual… Rollies birthday so tonight we all sat outside (David and Hazel, Rolly and Barb) drinking… John drank 4 guinesses, Dav’s whisky, Rolly’s Aust wine and John’s French wine!! ;-)
9.9.7Lovely day.. went for walk around the countryside. Beautiful mountains all around. Repeat of last night…!
10.9.07 Dave jump started our car. Charles in Croatia on friends yacht til 24 Sept. Left our dear friends, drove thought Sallances, Le Brouchet, Bonneville, Annemasse, Gaillard, to Lake Geneva – picture postcard pretty. Lunch on lake – fed swans. Through Thonon Les Bains, Evian Les Bains to Meillerie on Lake Leiman (other end of Lake Geneva). Beautiful spot, tiny town where everyone knew each other, grandparents with grandchildren, swans, men fishing, quiet, slow, picturesque – little walk from one side to the other.
11.9.07 Drove through Swiss border and requested to show our passports. Drove through Monthey, Aigle, Coldupillon to Gstaad (pretentious shops, where tennis open held). Lunch at Spiez on Lake – lovely and fed the swans. Stayed at Lauterbrunnen which is reputed to be the most beautiful valley in Europe. Must say – just stunning and we have never seen anything like it. Walked into town to get some swiss francs (1 CHF=1A$ approx.) All the Brits we’ve met warn us of how expensive Switzerland is.. but no more expensive than the rest of Europe for Australians eg ridiculously expensive!!
12.9.07 Fifteen km VERY steep hike today – 750m up, then down, from our campsite to Stechelberg, Gimmelwald, Murren, Lauterbrunnen, and back to our camp. Saw the snow capped Eiger (3970m), Monch (4107m), and Jungfrau (4158m). Almost at Murren (a tiny Swiss town only accessible by cable car or foot!) when the sound of cow bells could be heard – very loud – all over Switzerland the cows wear these traditional huge bells. One cow took a liking to John and started licking him!! Met 2 Israeli guys so talked biology, religion and agriculture with them for the walk down.
13.9.07 Walked from our campsite at Lauterbrunnen (796m) to Kleine Scheidegg (2061m) to Grindelwald (1034m) under the face of the mightly Eiger – train from here to Lauterbrunnen. John saved us 8CHF by making us walk to the next stop!!!! We have had great weather in the Alps (Mont Blanc also good). Saw the Eiger all day as beautiful clear day. The sign for this walk said “for experienced hikers only with suitable footwear” but I (Linda) made it anyway!!!
14.9.07 Drove the Susten Pass (2224m) and stayed right on the top with amazing views of mountains and glaciers. John totally in his element.
15.9.09 Drove through Meinen, Wassen, Amsteg, Silenen, and Schwyz where we discovered 1st and 2nd gear had disappeared. Called Charles for advice...again…. Met Reinhard Schuster (Argentinian German) who kindly allowed us to park outside his tea importing business with power and water. Rang us this night to invite us for b’fast with he and his partner tomorrow.
16.9.07 Reinhard (same age as Johnno) picked us up. Had a lovely breakfast with Reinhard and Cynthia (the local dentist) overlooking Swiss mountains discussing the problems that occurred in Argentina, and how they came to be living in Schwyz Switzerland. Went for a walk together, picture perfect Switzerland, more cow bells...
17.9.07 Drove frow Schwyz to Brunnen at 4am in the morning along a flat road as our car was pretty sick. VW Brunnen dodged up part and told us to drive to Ebikon a suburb of Lucerne (Luzern) 38 kms away. Waited 2 hours as only one person spoke English and he was out of the office. Picked up car at 5pm. Walked all around beautiful Lucerne (Charles grandmother on fathers side from here), and lunch on Four Forest Canton Lake. Lucerne seems a wealthy area. Looked at beautiful ornate Jesuit church. Stayed on Lake near Arth - rained.
18.9.07 Drove through Altmat – very scenic, towns in green valleys surrounded by mountains on every horizon, through Biberbrugg to Rapperswill. Walked around beautiful and lovely town of Rapperswill, the old part, around fish markets and lake. Camped outside Rapperswill.
19.9.07 Drove through Herisau to St Gallen then through Austrian border at Hodist. Passports requested again. Drove around huge lake and through Horbranz through Germany, through Isny, camped at Nesselwang.
20.9.07 Went for walk in mountains of Nesselwang (900m) to Maria Trost, Kappelar Alp to Sportheim Bock (1500m) where we had a cup of tea/German beer at café right up there! Walked back to our motorhome. Nice German man told us we had a flat tyre and used his pump to pump it up. Stayed in Bavaria Nesselwang again.
21.9.07 Drove to Fussen in Bavaria in German Alps. Got tyre puncture fixed. Went for 14km walk to King Ludwig II impressive Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles and saw Lake Swansee (very beautiful) where Tschaikovsky was inspired to create Swan Lake. The king was a reclusive, friendless drunk but loved the arts, and his spending was his downfall. Al – we must discuss! It is reputed that he went mad, and he was found dead in the lake with his doctor. Met Manreim a Swedish lone traveller on walk home and had dinner together at The Romerkeller. Local Bavarian fare called schweinshaxe – pork knuckle, saukraut and dumplings and they had Bavarian bier – Konig Ludwig. Stayed at Fussen.
22.9.07 Met Gerard en Helma a lovely retired Dutch couple who gave us very good travelling advice and were very helpful to Johnny by lending him their travelling books. Walk around Weilheim and stayed the night.
23.9.07 Train into Munich and walked around Oktoberfest and watched the parade. Lots of traditional costume (John now wants a pair of lederhose). Walked around Munich which had the first Jewish concentration camp – Dachau – which became a model for all others, opened by the Nazis in 1933 and in use until 1945. Thousands died from overwork, mass executions, unadulterated brutality, mistreatment, starvation, disease, exposure, torture, and medical experiments in this atrociously overcrowded prison where prisoners were humiliated and tortured by SS guards. Hitler staged a failed coup in Munich after WWI. Train back to Weilheim.
24.9.07 Left Weilheim Germany (Bavaria) for Wolfratshausen where we stayed. Met Kris (26) and Julie (24) both Canadians doing what we are doing – see www.krisandjulie.blogspot.com Long night of discussion in our van…Shower hose can’t be lengthened by VW Agent there.
25.9.07 Rained. Stayed at Wolfratshausen again. Slept in as up all night.
26.9.07 Rain continued… John went into Munich and saw the Hoptbrauhaus (Hitler’s favourite pub where much third Reich planning took place). Stayed at Wolfratshausen again.
27.9.07 Drove 25km to Bad Tolz. Cold. Walked around town, up walking track through trees with views of river to church (huge statues) with nice view of town and meandering river below. Bought whistling kettle and some fuel for stove, and embroidered cushion covers.
28.9.07 Left Bad Tolz over Isar River bridge to Bad Reichenhall (120kms)
29.9.07 Drove to Berchtesgaden – bus to Obersalzberg, bus to Kehlsteinhaus (US called it Eagles Nest) which is Germany’s highest road and only accessible by bus. The house there is at 1800m and was a gift to Hitler for his 50th birthday. However, he rarely visited as he was reputed to have a fear of heights. Hitler bought Wachenfeld House in the summer of 1933 which he’d rented since 1928 and between ’33-’36 had it rebuilt in 2 construction phases to become the impressive residence ‘the Berghof’ in Obersalzberg where he then evicted all residents of the town. One artist refused to leave and was imprisoned in Dachau in Munich for 2 years. It became fuhrersperrgebiet (the fuchrers off-limits area). Looked at Dokumentation Kentre with English audioguide all about the third Reich. Very moving and informative. In 1933 Germans could only vote for Hitlers party as earlier 1933 elections saw them receive only 43% of the German vote. Hitler then terrorised/ousted and locked up all political opposition! Interesting history about the propaganda machine, Nuerumburg (incorrect spelling) trials where most of Hitler’s men were hung or suicided beforehand, eugenics for a super, pure blood, race etc. Just read an English women’s diary throughout WWII so interesting the different perspectives.
30.9.07 Drove to Salzberg across Austrian border through Walserberg. Beautiful old city in Austrian Alps. Walked along the Salzach River which runs through Salzberg. Looked at Mozart’s home 250 years ago (apartment) – he played his first concert at age 6 in Salzberg, walked through the 13th century catacombs hewn out of rock of the Monchsberg – early Christian origin. The Sounds of Music filmed in Salzberg. Walked up to Hohensalzberg fortress high above the old town and central Europe’s largest, and completely preserved fortress dating from the 11th century. Walked through Salzberg’s garden at night, very formal, horse and unicorn statues and Greek urns abound the flower beds. Walked back to motorhome late and got lost – stayed lovely spot overlooking beautiful Salzberg below and mountains all around horizons.
1.10.07 Hard to believe all these places are under snow in winter but it is getting colder. Leaves changing to orange and red and falling – very picturesque…stayed in Salzberg again.
2.10.07 Left Salzberg and drove along the Danube River through Linz reputed to be Hitler’s favourite town but just industry now as far as we could see eg smog everywhere! to Waldhausen im Strudengau (stayed the night on small lake). Walked around lake at night.
3.10.07 Drove to Kritzendorf and trained into Vienna (notably baroque and renaissance architecture Mark). Walked around all the beautiful buildings until 7pm – Rathaus (town hall/council chambers), palace, church. Vienna home to Mozart, Beethoven and Schubert, Freud, Klimt (the Kiss) and the Habsburgs – Schonbrunn Palace – Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) who was assassinated in Geneva in 1898. Also home to the Lipizzaner Spanish Horse Riding School (only one in the world and run for 400 years). Strangely all of Captain Cook’s entire collection of objects and gifts from his travels from 1768 from Pacific Islands to North America are housed here in Vienna! Largest collection of Bruegels, Caravaggios, Raphaels, Rembrandts, Rubens and Titians apparently in Vienna.
4.10.07 Leaves changing to vivid reds and falling. By Oct there will be no leaves ready for the snow. Hazelnuts very loudly kept falling on our motorhome – Confusius say do not park under hazelnut tree! Train from Kritzendorf to Vienna again. Viewed the Klimt gallery – interesting character. Walked all day around Vienna – palaces, gardens, Roman ruins (found in 1990, 2000 years old and they even had under floor heating!) and all along the Danube River. Had a lovely authentic Turkish lunch together along with Turkish Delight and Turkish strong coffee. Restaurant such a walk that it was too late to see Sisi’s palace. Bought 16 2nd hand books in English (hard to find) for 12 euros. Monet to Picasso at Albertina. Train home to Kritzendorf.
5.10.07 I now know what its like to live like a gypsy - with no fixed address – a citizen of Europe! Left Kritzendorf, 120 km to Veitsch. Steep 40 min walk to Pilger Kreuz – great view of town and surrounds – mountains and leaves all brilliant red and orange. Stayed in Veitsch.
6.10.07 Left for Judenburg about 80 km away where we stayed.
7.10.07 Drove to Ferlach where we stayed – the most southern town in Austria. Read books, cooked, washed clothes – bit of a walk.
8.10.07 Text our English friends Rolly, Barb etc to meet up but they are in the heel of Italy – Brindisi – so may not get to meet them this time around which is sad. Tomorrow we leave for Italy.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Austria
hi all
i cant attach the detailed blogg update that linda has typed in the van as i cant access the e: drive so will update in a few days. I will also try and attach a few pics. we had some magic days around mont blanc and then walking past the eiger in switzerland. I hope everyone is well. we are in southern austria at the moment heading to italy tommorow. will visit venice then drive south doen the italian east coast then accross to naples and north through rome around southern france then around spain before heading back to london in late february. The van is running well. We had a scare in Austria when we lost 1st and 2nd gear but a 5 euro part fixed that. The germans and austrians are much better at englsh than the french which is lucky as we can only say gruss got (hello). Travelling in the van is very economical as there is a fantastic network of free parking sites often with water and power(1euro) accross much of europe. diesel is about 1.10 euro which is about 1.76 and we do about 8.5km per litre. We have been eating out a bit lately (linda has discovered bavarian food - pig knuckle and sauerkraut and dumplings!!- very tasty (except the sauerkraut)). The weather is starting to get quite chilly and the mountains are quite spectacular with the trees all red or yellow.
Anyway hopefully there will be more to read in a few days. I have to get out of this cafe - they are playing johnny farnham on the radio!
regards
john
i cant attach the detailed blogg update that linda has typed in the van as i cant access the e: drive so will update in a few days. I will also try and attach a few pics. we had some magic days around mont blanc and then walking past the eiger in switzerland. I hope everyone is well. we are in southern austria at the moment heading to italy tommorow. will visit venice then drive south doen the italian east coast then accross to naples and north through rome around southern france then around spain before heading back to london in late february. The van is running well. We had a scare in Austria when we lost 1st and 2nd gear but a 5 euro part fixed that. The germans and austrians are much better at englsh than the french which is lucky as we can only say gruss got (hello). Travelling in the van is very economical as there is a fantastic network of free parking sites often with water and power(1euro) accross much of europe. diesel is about 1.10 euro which is about 1.76 and we do about 8.5km per litre. We have been eating out a bit lately (linda has discovered bavarian food - pig knuckle and sauerkraut and dumplings!!- very tasty (except the sauerkraut)). The weather is starting to get quite chilly and the mountains are quite spectacular with the trees all red or yellow.
Anyway hopefully there will be more to read in a few days. I have to get out of this cafe - they are playing johnny farnham on the radio!
regards
john
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Still in France
Hi all
Sorry to keep you all in suspense for the next exciting instalment. We have seen some very beautiful places and met some beautiful people with a few car troubles along the way.
After Mont St Michael we visited Dinan where we posted our last entry and discovered French keyboards which have the keys a little bit mixed up.
Our car troubles began shortly before dinan with a blow out. We purchased 2 new tyres in Tours then a week later the exhaust came apart. John managed to tie the exhaust together with some old wire to allow us to get to Limoges where we parted with 610E for a new exhaust. A week later our engine became very sick in Montignac and we spent a week living in front of the Fiat garage in Montignac. A pinion that the timing belt ran around was worn out. The car is perfect now.
Loire Valley
Visited Angers chateaux with the 11th century ‘Apocalypse Tapestry’. Visited a troglodyte village at Rochmenier, Montsoreau chateaux and St Martin Church. We camped 2 nights on the Vienne River near Chinon after driving off the tar to camp next to the river and getting stuck after it rained all night. Chinon castle where Joan of Arc picked out the French King. Chenonoceu chateaux – very beautiful.
Orodour sur Glane has been left as it was in 1944 when the SS left after massacring the whole village. We met some nice poms here - Marie and John and their son Stuart and Collette. Had a big night and John was very sick the next day. We spent 5 nights around here waiting to get our exhaust fixed in Limoges including a night at Aixe sur vienne and a night at Solignac.
2 days after leaving Limoges we limped into Montignac with major engine problems. We were very lucky to meet a nice English couple who now live on the Vezere River outside of Montignac, Steve & Judy (both archeologists see www.cavesandcastles.com – highly recommended they run a b&b and take tours) who organised for their neighbours grandson Sebastian to look at our car. We ended up at the Fiat Garage in Montignac where Sebastion works and met Chris (who owns the garage) and Natalie (and Charlene, Noa, joe, Zoey, Papa and Mama). We were thinking we needed a whole new engine but by 2am after much whiskey and much improved Australian – French relations we realised that Chris would be able to fix it and that that was a worst case scenario. Luckily Natalie and Chris speak a little English and we were able to communicate reasonably effectively. We became good friends and they made us a beautiful French multi-course dinner which was exceptional. We met their best friend Xavier the local pharmacist who spends most of his time in the Alps skiing. It took a while to find the problem and order the required part. We were living in front of the garage watching friends and customers come and go and having a great time – just remember this is all in French!
4 August 2007 We hired a double kayak for 5 hours and kayaked 20 kms from Montignac to Tursac passing 3 huge 1000 yo chateaus built on cliffs, and 2 Troglodyte cities used by cromagnon men over 17,000 years ago. Kiyaking under overhanging cliffs, surrounded by forest, swimming in the Vezere was right up John’s alley! Very beautiful.
5 August 2008 Were about to depart Montignac when we met the most lovely English couple Judy and Steve (archeologists) who run caves and castles which is a b&b and tour package. Steve and Judy were most helpful and we were very blessed – they went off to arrange for Sebastian to come and look at our camping car (French for motorhome). John and I had a swim in the Vezere as very hot.
7-8 August 2007 Boring car stuff and very stressful speaking to insurance company in England and Chris the mechanic speaking French, with Steve translating everything.
9 August 2007 Judy left car insurance and consumer rights stuff under our wipers this morning when we awoke – very sweet! Dropped car at garage and went to Lascaux caves to check out 17,000 year old cave drawings - one of the first evidence of spiritual/art forms by man (cromagnon man) although the historians and archeologists recreated the images (original infested with rock virus!) based on Aboriginal methods of rock art. Called Charles – quite a bit – during our stressful car ordeal – we are very lucky to have his patient and kind and wise advice always there. I cooked dinner for Chris and Natalie and John in camping car at garage! “Petit” when asked if you want more Irish whisky only saves your soul in the morning if you say it a couple of times!!! Very late night…………. Great fun!
11 August 2007 We did a 20km walk and had a swim in the Vezere. Spoke to and watched some French people hangliding. Very hot!
12 August 2007.; Chris and Natalies including Xavier. Natalie a great cook – her father ran restaurants! Fantastic – many courses. Rocked on til the wee hours… great conversation, fun…
13 August 2007 John went on 15 km hike by himself whilst I wrote postcards and journal! Judy left a lovely card for us on windscreen addressed to Linda and John, Riverside View, A cote de la Vezere, Montignac (free camping on river so yes, waterfront!)
14 August 2007 Parts didn’t arrive. Papa Deni drove to Brive for us to get it. Car fixed, big celebrations – mostly in French – John and Alex broke out the French beer for everyone at garage – celebrations all around. Judy and Steve arrived with dinner cooked for us. Had dinner with Natalie, Chris and Xavier – very nice…til 4am. Called Charles twice and both times cut off!
15 August 2007 French Assumption Day – public holiday – Lunch (John said to add MAGNIFICENT lunch – French style – the best!! – always includes much vin etc!) at Chris parents Deni and Monique and her friends also. How lucky are we to meet such nice people! John liked Deni’s liquer cherries – he grows all his own vegies and fruit. Mamas friends place for a swim in the pool with everyone. Great fun. Fireworks that night in town. Poured with rain.
16 August 2007 Made Judy and Steve dinner on River Vezere – again until the early hours. Much fun and jokes and conversations and stories!
17 August 2007 Drove to Brive
18 August 2007 Drove to Sarlat – a beautiful medieval town – all cobbled narrow streets. Drove to Saint Vincent de Cosse and stayed on Dordogne River at aire de service privee – had swim – deeper than Vezere.
19 August 2007 Rained all day
20 August 2007 John did 28 km kayak on Dordogne from Carsac to St Vincent de Cosse past several magnificent chateaus.
21 August 2007 Left for Rocamadour – thanks Charles and Hugh for the France on a shoe string and France DKK books – invaluable for a trip like this xox. Did part of the centuries old pilgrimage at UNESCO site Rocamadour – 14 stations of the cross zigzagging up a steep cliff all cut into rock! The Saint Amadour’s body was found preserved in the cliff cave so a church was built at the site. Very typical story all over France – pilgrims then brought offerings so good to have a saint.
23 August 2007 Left Rocamadour for Domme. Beautiful fortified town with a beautiful view of the valley and looping Dordogne River from the market square. Drove through La Roque Gageac one of France’s prettiest villages with overhanging cliffs on River Dordogne. Drove to Bergerac and listened to live classical music and read about French history, ate pizza.
24 August 2007 Drove to Bordeux – then to Andernos where we got fined 11euros for illegal camping at the port. Hugh – lots of Beneteaus moored in this French port!! Charles sailed half way to Corsica and problems occurred with desalination plant on board affecting compass, including anchor prob – but he is ok.
25 August 2007 Swim at Grand Crohot a lovely beach on Atlantic. All the people made it look like Bondi! Camped in motor home in caravan park.
26 August 2007 Paid fine at police station even though they told us not to bother as we would be returning to Australia!!!! Drove to Perigeuax and walked around a medieval town and stayed on lovely River Isle. Met David and Sharon a lovely interesting couple, both retired Australian baby boomers and very knowledgable about European travel with camping car – got some great advice. See David’s blog at www.campervanman.741.com for interesting reading.
27 August 2007 Left Periguex and camped approx. 3 km west of Montvert in lovely spot overlooking green, rolling rural country side.
28 August 2007 Drove thru St Paul Des Landes, Polminac, Aurillac, Vic Sure Cere, Lioran (big winter skiing area), St Flour (town blt on cliff), onto Pinols (1020m alt.) All very mountainous and scenic.
29 August 2007 Drove thru Lestival and Langeac to Lamastre – camped here thundering and lightening all night.
30 August 2007 Drove thru Valence to Grenoble.
31 August 2007 John did a 10 km walk. We bought 5 5kg gas bottles to avoid further incompatibility issues with gas bottles and attachments after we leave France. Our English gas bottle and attachments were a nightmare to convert for France.
1 Sept 2007 We did a 15 km walk – beautiful day - up steep mountains past the Bastille. Returned to our camping car, sitting in the back, SMASH, a young man of middle eastern appearance had smashed our side window and was running off with our day pack, jacket and $1500 video camera. Very shocking experience. Went straight to police station in Grenoble after John and I fearlessly confronted the gang of boys at the end of the street. Of course they pleaded ignorance!
3 September 2007 Currently St Pierre de Chautreusse 1000m above Grenoble surrounded by amazing 2000m peaks. Heading to alps tomorrow.
Sorry to keep you all in suspense for the next exciting instalment. We have seen some very beautiful places and met some beautiful people with a few car troubles along the way.
After Mont St Michael we visited Dinan where we posted our last entry and discovered French keyboards which have the keys a little bit mixed up.
Our car troubles began shortly before dinan with a blow out. We purchased 2 new tyres in Tours then a week later the exhaust came apart. John managed to tie the exhaust together with some old wire to allow us to get to Limoges where we parted with 610E for a new exhaust. A week later our engine became very sick in Montignac and we spent a week living in front of the Fiat garage in Montignac. A pinion that the timing belt ran around was worn out. The car is perfect now.
Loire Valley
Visited Angers chateaux with the 11th century ‘Apocalypse Tapestry’. Visited a troglodyte village at Rochmenier, Montsoreau chateaux and St Martin Church. We camped 2 nights on the Vienne River near Chinon after driving off the tar to camp next to the river and getting stuck after it rained all night. Chinon castle where Joan of Arc picked out the French King. Chenonoceu chateaux – very beautiful.
Orodour sur Glane has been left as it was in 1944 when the SS left after massacring the whole village. We met some nice poms here - Marie and John and their son Stuart and Collette. Had a big night and John was very sick the next day. We spent 5 nights around here waiting to get our exhaust fixed in Limoges including a night at Aixe sur vienne and a night at Solignac.
2 days after leaving Limoges we limped into Montignac with major engine problems. We were very lucky to meet a nice English couple who now live on the Vezere River outside of Montignac, Steve & Judy (both archeologists see www.cavesandcastles.com – highly recommended they run a b&b and take tours) who organised for their neighbours grandson Sebastian to look at our car. We ended up at the Fiat Garage in Montignac where Sebastion works and met Chris (who owns the garage) and Natalie (and Charlene, Noa, joe, Zoey, Papa and Mama). We were thinking we needed a whole new engine but by 2am after much whiskey and much improved Australian – French relations we realised that Chris would be able to fix it and that that was a worst case scenario. Luckily Natalie and Chris speak a little English and we were able to communicate reasonably effectively. We became good friends and they made us a beautiful French multi-course dinner which was exceptional. We met their best friend Xavier the local pharmacist who spends most of his time in the Alps skiing. It took a while to find the problem and order the required part. We were living in front of the garage watching friends and customers come and go and having a great time – just remember this is all in French!
4 August 2007 We hired a double kayak for 5 hours and kayaked 20 kms from Montignac to Tursac passing 3 huge 1000 yo chateaus built on cliffs, and 2 Troglodyte cities used by cromagnon men over 17,000 years ago. Kiyaking under overhanging cliffs, surrounded by forest, swimming in the Vezere was right up John’s alley! Very beautiful.
5 August 2008 Were about to depart Montignac when we met the most lovely English couple Judy and Steve (archeologists) who run caves and castles which is a b&b and tour package. Steve and Judy were most helpful and we were very blessed – they went off to arrange for Sebastian to come and look at our camping car (French for motorhome). John and I had a swim in the Vezere as very hot.
7-8 August 2007 Boring car stuff and very stressful speaking to insurance company in England and Chris the mechanic speaking French, with Steve translating everything.
9 August 2007 Judy left car insurance and consumer rights stuff under our wipers this morning when we awoke – very sweet! Dropped car at garage and went to Lascaux caves to check out 17,000 year old cave drawings - one of the first evidence of spiritual/art forms by man (cromagnon man) although the historians and archeologists recreated the images (original infested with rock virus!) based on Aboriginal methods of rock art. Called Charles – quite a bit – during our stressful car ordeal – we are very lucky to have his patient and kind and wise advice always there. I cooked dinner for Chris and Natalie and John in camping car at garage! “Petit” when asked if you want more Irish whisky only saves your soul in the morning if you say it a couple of times!!! Very late night…………. Great fun!
11 August 2007 We did a 20km walk and had a swim in the Vezere. Spoke to and watched some French people hangliding. Very hot!
12 August 2007.; Chris and Natalies including Xavier. Natalie a great cook – her father ran restaurants! Fantastic – many courses. Rocked on til the wee hours… great conversation, fun…
13 August 2007 John went on 15 km hike by himself whilst I wrote postcards and journal! Judy left a lovely card for us on windscreen addressed to Linda and John, Riverside View, A cote de la Vezere, Montignac (free camping on river so yes, waterfront!)
14 August 2007 Parts didn’t arrive. Papa Deni drove to Brive for us to get it. Car fixed, big celebrations – mostly in French – John and Alex broke out the French beer for everyone at garage – celebrations all around. Judy and Steve arrived with dinner cooked for us. Had dinner with Natalie, Chris and Xavier – very nice…til 4am. Called Charles twice and both times cut off!
15 August 2007 French Assumption Day – public holiday – Lunch (John said to add MAGNIFICENT lunch – French style – the best!! – always includes much vin etc!) at Chris parents Deni and Monique and her friends also. How lucky are we to meet such nice people! John liked Deni’s liquer cherries – he grows all his own vegies and fruit. Mamas friends place for a swim in the pool with everyone. Great fun. Fireworks that night in town. Poured with rain.
16 August 2007 Made Judy and Steve dinner on River Vezere – again until the early hours. Much fun and jokes and conversations and stories!
17 August 2007 Drove to Brive
18 August 2007 Drove to Sarlat – a beautiful medieval town – all cobbled narrow streets. Drove to Saint Vincent de Cosse and stayed on Dordogne River at aire de service privee – had swim – deeper than Vezere.
19 August 2007 Rained all day
20 August 2007 John did 28 km kayak on Dordogne from Carsac to St Vincent de Cosse past several magnificent chateaus.
21 August 2007 Left for Rocamadour – thanks Charles and Hugh for the France on a shoe string and France DKK books – invaluable for a trip like this xox. Did part of the centuries old pilgrimage at UNESCO site Rocamadour – 14 stations of the cross zigzagging up a steep cliff all cut into rock! The Saint Amadour’s body was found preserved in the cliff cave so a church was built at the site. Very typical story all over France – pilgrims then brought offerings so good to have a saint.
23 August 2007 Left Rocamadour for Domme. Beautiful fortified town with a beautiful view of the valley and looping Dordogne River from the market square. Drove through La Roque Gageac one of France’s prettiest villages with overhanging cliffs on River Dordogne. Drove to Bergerac and listened to live classical music and read about French history, ate pizza.
24 August 2007 Drove to Bordeux – then to Andernos where we got fined 11euros for illegal camping at the port. Hugh – lots of Beneteaus moored in this French port!! Charles sailed half way to Corsica and problems occurred with desalination plant on board affecting compass, including anchor prob – but he is ok.
25 August 2007 Swim at Grand Crohot a lovely beach on Atlantic. All the people made it look like Bondi! Camped in motor home in caravan park.
26 August 2007 Paid fine at police station even though they told us not to bother as we would be returning to Australia!!!! Drove to Perigeuax and walked around a medieval town and stayed on lovely River Isle. Met David and Sharon a lovely interesting couple, both retired Australian baby boomers and very knowledgable about European travel with camping car – got some great advice. See David’s blog at www.campervanman.741.com for interesting reading.
27 August 2007 Left Periguex and camped approx. 3 km west of Montvert in lovely spot overlooking green, rolling rural country side.
28 August 2007 Drove thru St Paul Des Landes, Polminac, Aurillac, Vic Sure Cere, Lioran (big winter skiing area), St Flour (town blt on cliff), onto Pinols (1020m alt.) All very mountainous and scenic.
29 August 2007 Drove thru Lestival and Langeac to Lamastre – camped here thundering and lightening all night.
30 August 2007 Drove thru Valence to Grenoble.
31 August 2007 John did a 10 km walk. We bought 5 5kg gas bottles to avoid further incompatibility issues with gas bottles and attachments after we leave France. Our English gas bottle and attachments were a nightmare to convert for France.
1 Sept 2007 We did a 15 km walk – beautiful day - up steep mountains past the Bastille. Returned to our camping car, sitting in the back, SMASH, a young man of middle eastern appearance had smashed our side window and was running off with our day pack, jacket and $1500 video camera. Very shocking experience. Went straight to police station in Grenoble after John and I fearlessly confronted the gang of boys at the end of the street. Of course they pleaded ignorance!
3 September 2007 Currently St Pierre de Chautreusse 1000m above Grenoble surrounded by amazing 2000m peaks. Heading to alps tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Dover England to France
the letters qre not the sq,e qs Aust!! q vert pretty pqrtly medieval town with remains of 1000 yo castle qnd stone wall surrounding the city; Beautiful churches of stone; qnd cobbled streets everyzhere;
Blog 16/7/07
Greeting from Le Mont St Michel. In next few days will spend a few days looking at chateau’s in the Loire Valley before heading south through Bordeaux to Spain to meet Gabriele Salas.
Othello (15/6/07)
We went and watched Shakespears “Othello” at the globe theatre in London. Its 3 hours long but very entertaining. We walked past St Pauls and along Fleet St to the front gate of Liz & Phils place eg Buckingham Palace. Lots of police and guards (I think they should get Harry and William to guard the palace as they are too precious to go to Iraq)
Hampton Court palace (19/6/07)
Another palace....... Henry VIII probably its most famous resident in 1500s.
Hockham Hall (20/6/07)
Charles drove us to Norfolk, where we visited Hockham Hall which till recently was owned by Linda's relatives and near where lindas grandfather and many other relatives are buried = interestingly in grounds of an Anglican church. We returned via ‘Bury St Edmund’ where we met John Trappes Lomax (Linda's 2nd cousin) and had afternoon tea and interesting discussions on the plight of the Trappes .... qnd looked qt fqmily portraits.
Cumbria Way (21 – 25/6/07)
Caught the fast (and very expensive) train to Ulverston from London to start the Cumbria Way which goes from Ulverston on the coast in the south of the Lakes District to Keswick 50 miles north. The official end is another 20-30 miles north at Carlisle but we had to collect our van and 4 full days gave us a great taste of this beautiful area. We slept in our tent for the first 3 nights then stayed in YHA’s for the last 2 nights.
Most of the locals walked from YHA to YHA with a small daypack and their dogs (every 2nd walker had at least 1 dog!!!). The other strange thing about their national parks is they have sheep everywhere, although they have been part of the system for over a 1000 years. Not just your average sheep though, these sheep are unique to the Lakes District, called herdwick sheep which are born black and turn grey or white as they get older and which also know their little patch of the fels (mountain) so they don’t need fencing. The landscape is generally treeless with beautiful stone cottages and dry stone walls.
Beatrix Potter (Peter Rabbitt) and William Wordsworth (poet) and John Ruskin (Socialist philosopher) were famous Lakes District residents.
We become grey nomads (26/6/07)
After catching the train from Keswick to Preston we collected our van from Jody (our used campervan salesman) and learnt how everything worked. We had a complimentary night at the Oaklands Caravan Park (don’t go out of your way to go here).
York (28/6/07)
Visited YorkMinster Cathedral (a very impressive gothic Cathedral). We had the full tour which included looking in the crypt and climbing the tower to look at the view.
While in York we also walked around the York Wall.
Norwich (30/6/07)
We visited Norwich castle where Lindas Ancestor Henry Kable was kept in the dungeon waiting for his cruise on the first fleet to depart. They have a wax work figure of Henry who is probably the most famous convict of the first fleet.
London Again (2/7/07)
With out tickets across the English channel booked weeks ago we only have a day and a half in London to show of our new home to Charles, Leo, Ania and Kathy, do some washing, thank our friends and continue our journey.
The English Channel (4.15am 3/7/07)
We cross the channel or “Le Manche” as the French call it at 4am when the tickets are cheapest. It gets light here at 4am so we see the white cliffs of Dover as we cross to Calais and eat kathys French breakfast. We stay at a little caravan park at Leubingham near Calais.
Calais – Le Havre (3- 9/7/07)
We make our way south following the coast. The PDA is invaluable, it is set to avoid motorways and tolls and so we travel along quiet roads through beautiful French villages. The French cater for campervans really well with many towns having an area where campervans can park for free and fill up water (2 euros) and empty toilets. We have bought the book showing where these areas are. The book is in French but we just look for “parking gratuit (free)”. Diesel is about $1.80 AUD compared to about $2.30 AUD in England. We are buying food from supermarkets and only paying occasionally for caravan parks so are living reasonably cheaply. There are millions of campervans in France, most driven by retired couples with their dog. The coast line is characterised by huge white chalk cliffs dotted with german fortifications (WW2). Where there is a break in the cliffs there is a small village. St Valery en caux and Etretat were 2 towns we thought particularly nice.
Normandy (10 – 15/7/07)
We continue along the coast. We visit the “Memorial de Caen” which like most museums and memorials around here is primarily about D-Day and the battle of Normandy.
We spent 2 nights at Arromanches where the British created the “Mulberry Harbour”, which consisted of hundreds of huge concrete lego blocks towed over from England and sunk off Arromanches to form a harbour where troops and equipment were landed. Most of these blocks are still there and it would have been very impressive.
We visit the Bayeux Tapestry which I learnt about in Yr 7 history. The tapestry depicts the William the Conquerer story which is probably the most important date in British history with many of the castles in Britain built after William the conquerer to help the Normans dominate the Saxons. The British War cemetery in Bayeux has words to the effect of “We who were conquered by William have liberated his homeland” (in latin).
Bayeux was also where our English gas bottle ran out and we had a nightmare trying to reconnect our gas. The French are Metric and the British Imperial so totally incompatible. My highschool French has proved totally inadequate and the only words we have are hello, goodbye, thankyou, yes and no. Most of the French do not speak English and it can be very frustrating.
We spent 2 nights at Le Mont St Michel which is an amazing site which has been catering to tourists or pilgrims for at least 800 years. The lower part is full of souvenir shops and restaurants while the upper part is the abbey. We had a tour of the abbey then walked through the mud to walk around part of the Mont.
We are checking our email occasionally – john.bickmore@gmail.com or linda.kable@gmail.com and have the mobile reconnected – 07766277478 (for emergencies only).
Blog 16/7/07
Greeting from Le Mont St Michel. In next few days will spend a few days looking at chateau’s in the Loire Valley before heading south through Bordeaux to Spain to meet Gabriele Salas.
Othello (15/6/07)
We went and watched Shakespears “Othello” at the globe theatre in London. Its 3 hours long but very entertaining. We walked past St Pauls and along Fleet St to the front gate of Liz & Phils place eg Buckingham Palace. Lots of police and guards (I think they should get Harry and William to guard the palace as they are too precious to go to Iraq)
Hampton Court palace (19/6/07)
Another palace....... Henry VIII probably its most famous resident in 1500s.
Hockham Hall (20/6/07)
Charles drove us to Norfolk, where we visited Hockham Hall which till recently was owned by Linda's relatives and near where lindas grandfather and many other relatives are buried = interestingly in grounds of an Anglican church. We returned via ‘Bury St Edmund’ where we met John Trappes Lomax (Linda's 2nd cousin) and had afternoon tea and interesting discussions on the plight of the Trappes .... qnd looked qt fqmily portraits.
Cumbria Way (21 – 25/6/07)
Caught the fast (and very expensive) train to Ulverston from London to start the Cumbria Way which goes from Ulverston on the coast in the south of the Lakes District to Keswick 50 miles north. The official end is another 20-30 miles north at Carlisle but we had to collect our van and 4 full days gave us a great taste of this beautiful area. We slept in our tent for the first 3 nights then stayed in YHA’s for the last 2 nights.
Most of the locals walked from YHA to YHA with a small daypack and their dogs (every 2nd walker had at least 1 dog!!!). The other strange thing about their national parks is they have sheep everywhere, although they have been part of the system for over a 1000 years. Not just your average sheep though, these sheep are unique to the Lakes District, called herdwick sheep which are born black and turn grey or white as they get older and which also know their little patch of the fels (mountain) so they don’t need fencing. The landscape is generally treeless with beautiful stone cottages and dry stone walls.
Beatrix Potter (Peter Rabbitt) and William Wordsworth (poet) and John Ruskin (Socialist philosopher) were famous Lakes District residents.
We become grey nomads (26/6/07)
After catching the train from Keswick to Preston we collected our van from Jody (our used campervan salesman) and learnt how everything worked. We had a complimentary night at the Oaklands Caravan Park (don’t go out of your way to go here).
York (28/6/07)
Visited YorkMinster Cathedral (a very impressive gothic Cathedral). We had the full tour which included looking in the crypt and climbing the tower to look at the view.
While in York we also walked around the York Wall.
Norwich (30/6/07)
We visited Norwich castle where Lindas Ancestor Henry Kable was kept in the dungeon waiting for his cruise on the first fleet to depart. They have a wax work figure of Henry who is probably the most famous convict of the first fleet.
London Again (2/7/07)
With out tickets across the English channel booked weeks ago we only have a day and a half in London to show of our new home to Charles, Leo, Ania and Kathy, do some washing, thank our friends and continue our journey.
The English Channel (4.15am 3/7/07)
We cross the channel or “Le Manche” as the French call it at 4am when the tickets are cheapest. It gets light here at 4am so we see the white cliffs of Dover as we cross to Calais and eat kathys French breakfast. We stay at a little caravan park at Leubingham near Calais.
Calais – Le Havre (3- 9/7/07)
We make our way south following the coast. The PDA is invaluable, it is set to avoid motorways and tolls and so we travel along quiet roads through beautiful French villages. The French cater for campervans really well with many towns having an area where campervans can park for free and fill up water (2 euros) and empty toilets. We have bought the book showing where these areas are. The book is in French but we just look for “parking gratuit (free)”. Diesel is about $1.80 AUD compared to about $2.30 AUD in England. We are buying food from supermarkets and only paying occasionally for caravan parks so are living reasonably cheaply. There are millions of campervans in France, most driven by retired couples with their dog. The coast line is characterised by huge white chalk cliffs dotted with german fortifications (WW2). Where there is a break in the cliffs there is a small village. St Valery en caux and Etretat were 2 towns we thought particularly nice.
Normandy (10 – 15/7/07)
We continue along the coast. We visit the “Memorial de Caen” which like most museums and memorials around here is primarily about D-Day and the battle of Normandy.
We spent 2 nights at Arromanches where the British created the “Mulberry Harbour”, which consisted of hundreds of huge concrete lego blocks towed over from England and sunk off Arromanches to form a harbour where troops and equipment were landed. Most of these blocks are still there and it would have been very impressive.
We visit the Bayeux Tapestry which I learnt about in Yr 7 history. The tapestry depicts the William the Conquerer story which is probably the most important date in British history with many of the castles in Britain built after William the conquerer to help the Normans dominate the Saxons. The British War cemetery in Bayeux has words to the effect of “We who were conquered by William have liberated his homeland” (in latin).
Bayeux was also where our English gas bottle ran out and we had a nightmare trying to reconnect our gas. The French are Metric and the British Imperial so totally incompatible. My highschool French has proved totally inadequate and the only words we have are hello, goodbye, thankyou, yes and no. Most of the French do not speak English and it can be very frustrating.
We spent 2 nights at Le Mont St Michel which is an amazing site which has been catering to tourists or pilgrims for at least 800 years. The lower part is full of souvenir shops and restaurants while the upper part is the abbey. We had a tour of the abbey then walked through the mud to walk around part of the Mont.
We are checking our email occasionally – john.bickmore@gmail.com or linda.kable@gmail.com and have the mobile reconnected – 07766277478 (for emergencies only).
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