Hi all
We have popped over to Morrocco for a couple of days and are staying in the hotel Continental in Tangeirs. The van is parked in the streets of Tarifa (Spains most southern point). Its definitely different over here and much cheaper.
Since the last post we have been to Ronda - an amazing town perched on a cliff (see pics of bridge) and Gibraltor where we stocked up on duty free grog and checked out the rock and its monkeys (pics coming soon).
We catch the 35 minute ferry back to Tarifa tommorow. Tarifa is the kite surfing and windsurfing capital of the world. Its more than a bit windy. When the wind isnt blowing very hard from the east (which it is now and was for the 3 days (continuously) we were in Tarifa ) it blows from the west.
Regards
John
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Spain
21 December 2007 Emailed our draft advertisement and photos for our motorhome requesting feedback to Colette and Stuart (both our age, who we met in France and are now back home in England (they live next door to Penny Lane mentioned in the Beetles song) and David and Sharon (also met in France, now back home in Brisbane). Skyped Anna, and Christian called with news that he and Georgie had a little girl they named Ruby, and they are all living in the Blue Mountains. Taking the rubbish outside the gates I heard a man singing up the road. We got chatting and his name was Peter Hampson (Pedro in Spanish) a 65 year old English man who had lived in Spain for over 10 years, had just had a car accident and the police had taken his car, and was selling his villa in Alfas del Pi. He invited me to come and see his villa but I took him to meet Johnny at our van and they drank whisky and we had an interesting conversation. We walked 5 minutes to Peter’s villa and he and John had quite a few drinks. Peter was a very interesting character and had lived and worked all over the world. Very late night and we walked back to our van at Alfas del Pi.
22 December 2007 Looked at David and Sharon’s blog again about their trip to Granada in 2000 and Condoba in 2005 for tips. Joe and Claire skyped us and gave us a tour of their lovely apartment, they both look great, and we saw their new cat. John downloaded camping car sights for the tom tom most of the day. We both walked in the pouring rain into Albir to a café run by an English couple and had big English breakfasts and tea/beer. You’ve no idea how good this is when you have been in Italy and France for months where they are impossible to find! Walked back to Alfas del Pi in the pouring rain, relaxed, emailed, and stayed the night again.
23 December 2007 We walked into Albir to the English couple’s café again, and again it was pouring rain. Both had a roast dinner and tea/beer which was very nice. We don’t have a gas oven in the van, only electric, so you need to be hooked up to power to use it. Peter visited us and invited us to his place. John and Peter drank cheap wine/whisky (alcohol and cigarettes are the only things in Spain that are cheaper than Australia!!), chatted and watched English TV, and I did 2 loads of washing (thanks Peter). Poured all day so was nice to be at Peter’s in front of the heater. Walked home to van in Alfas del Pi in pouring rain again.
24 December 2007 After receiving helpful feedback from Stuart/Collette and David/Sharon we placed our advert on Gumtree for our camper. Jaki emailed us her flights – we pick her up on 2 Feb in Seville and drop her in Lisbon Portugal on 15 Feb. We are looking forward to seeing her and travelling together. Hugh skyped us to say Merry Christmas which was a really nice surprise and made my day – thanks Hugh for having all your technology back up and running on time to skype us for Christmas – much appreciated. Spoke to Alex – they are going to Tina’s for Christmas, Jen is in Vietnam for 5 weeks with Scotty over Chrissy. Paid our 72 euros for the last few nights and emptied waste water etc. Met 2 weird hippies who came over to chat to us as they had also been staying at ‘Costa Blanca Motorhome Park’ also. Said goodbye to Willem and Marlene (Danish) who we met at Peniscola and were also staying here. Did some grocery shopping in Albir and drove to Peter’s villa. Our washing was dry on his line and eventually Peter arrived drunk! John made fantastic turkey green curry for Christmas Eve. Watched movies with Peter (Adrift). Stayed at Peter’s in Alfas del Pi.
Tues 25 December 2007 Perfect warm blue sky day approx. 19 degrees. Sat in sun with Peter and John over coffee. Walked into Albir and caught the bus to Benidorm to the Union Jack Pub. Peter had wanted us all to have Christmas together here. It was smoky and very loud and the turkey roast was not that great. The place was packed with English people. John and I went for a walk along the promenade at Benidorm main beach – what a horrible place. Concrete high-rises everywhere – think Gold Coast. John calls it the ‘jewel of the Costa Blanca’! unfortunately the rest of the Spanish coast so far has not been much better. Returned to the Union Jack to pick up Peter who was not there. We bussed back to Peter’s and the lights were on and he was home. All watched movies together and we stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Wed 26 December 2007 I slept in whilst John changed the fan belt. Beautiful blue sky day around 19 degrees. Quiet day, watch movies (vampire movie, Blade, Master & Commander). I cooked dinner for John and Peter whilst the lightening started and it began to pour with rain. Stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Thurs 27 December 2007 Rain had stopped, warm with beautiful blue skies. Sat in the morning sun with Peter and John and said goodbye/thankyou to Peter. This is the sad thing about motorhoming, you become friends with people that you get on so well with, and then have to leave. Also being Australian the chance of seeing them again is remote. This is one thing I don’t like! John took photos of us all for my memories. Departed at 11.45am and filled up, and headed through La Nucia (new and ugly). Imposing rock mountains with amazing sharp skyline in front of us that we could see from Alfas del Pi. Continued through Polop de la Marina towards those beautiful amazing mountains. Arrived at Guadalest (history goes back to at least AD 715) with its stone castle “Castillo de San Jose” perched on a very steep top of a rock cliff with amazing rock spire. Amazing rocky sharp mountains with a sea green dam down in the valley. Strolled around this traffic-free village which has become a tourist trap – kitsch souvenir shops everywhere. However, we visited the ‘museo etnologico’ (free but compulsory donation) which showed a very interesting account of Guadalest peasant life before cheap abundant fossil fuels (the animals: goats, pig, chickens, lived under the house, olives and grapes were crushed for oil and wine). Drove to Santa Pola and inadvertently found many motorhomes parked on the water (sign stating “NO MOTORHOMES”, but they get around it because it also states “TOURIST PARKING”, so we parked where we could hear the waves lapping all night. Saw GB number plates so went over and introduced ourselves to Bill and Malcolm. Stayed free at Santa Pola.
Fri 28 December 2008 Malcolm and Bill came over to say they were going to get water and offered to take John with his 3 20 litre jerry cans to collect some. Warm lovely blue sky day. They were all gone for ages.. so I walked up to the supermarket along the beach to get some groceries. It was very relaxing, quiet and not many people around. Very late night in our van with Bill (55, lives near Bath England) and Malcolm (71, English but lived in Spain for past 20 years). Much beer and whisky drinking and lovely company. Swapped interesting stories. Stayed at Santa Pola again.
Sat 29 December 2008 Charles got home to London today. Left at 10.15am in a convoy towards Murcia. Murcia is under a smoky haze – yuk. Dry, flat, rocky, dusty, arid landscape with many palm trees and concrete towers – very ugly. Apparently all this development has occurred in the last 10 years spurned on by foreigners immigrating to warm Spain (English, German, Netherlanders etc). Drove through Albatera (like a huge construction zone). Arrived at Mojacar and parked on the beach where there were already many motorhomes parked. John made a lovely big b’fast for dinner. Bill, Malcolm and John were told to move by the police. I went and asked a few other English people parked near us who had not been told to move why we had. We were told that it was because Bill had his levelling ramps out – apparently you can not have washing drying, stairs pulled out from the doorway, awnings out etc as this is officially ‘camping’. We were all about to sit around and relax and so were disappointed that we had to move – this is the first time we have ever been moved on, but we had been warned about it. France is by far the best country for motorhoming with many places to stay with water, waste water and toilet dumps and free. Drove through the night (something we try not to do). By the way – John is very good at driving on the wrong (right) side of the road in a left hand drive. I don’t drive the motorhome any more even though we both purchased international licenses in Australia. It feels huge, is very wide and I feel like I take the whole road up! Drove about 20 kms to Agua Amergia with Bill and Malcolm following John. Down to the sand on the beach Bill got bogged and Malcolm pulled him out. The 3 of us parked side by side in Agua Amergia, a very pretty town with beautiful surrounding countryside.
Sun 30 December 2007 John had a shower in the motorhome and we departed at 12.35pm. Beautiful blue sky day. Magic ocean views looking down on the little village where we stayed from the high points we had driven. Agua Amergia looked beautiful – white washed houses, lovely coastline – John took photographs of Carboneras (Bay) in Gabo National Park. Very arid, lowest rainfall in Europe, treeless, rocky and mountainous - westerns are filmed here. The landscape of Almeria is like much of Southern Spain – dominated by mountain chains composed of hard, ancient rocks formed by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, ending some 10 million years ago. Quite stunning. I really like Spain now.. since leaving the touristed concrete jungles of the coast! Headed towards Nijar, Almeria, as John wants to see the ancient castle there. John, against the better judgement of Malcolm and Bill who were no longer following, got us stuck in a narrow cobbled street. Very stressful with 4mm to spare between concrete flats in front and concrete overhang behind. All these Spanish men appeared from no where and starting giving orders and helping John all in loud Spanish. The townsfolk all watching this spectacle from above on the balconies. Some were pushing the car from behind, others pushing down on one corner of the bonnet as her wheels were spinning but she wasn’t moving. John thinks its really funny that the Spanish men were putting their finger to their mouths saying shhhh to me!!!! Yes, I was stressed as was John – but I was more vocal…and had visions of our crushed motorhome being unsaleable! The Spanish men were so helpful and there was much MUCHUS GRACIAS from John after they got us out. Text to Bill and Malcolm who had been to see the castle. They found us eventually and we all departed (sadly without John seeing the castle after our ordeal) to Roquetas del Mar in the Almeria region where we all stayed near the beach.
Mon 31 December 2007 We all filled up with diesel and water and continued in our convoy towards Nerja. Bill is determined we all celebrate New Years in Nerja. The country from Roquetas del Mar through Los Yesos, La Mamola to Nerja was dry, rugged, rocky, arid mountains and the flat land covered by plastic glass houses as far as the eye can see. All the towns on the coast have an abundance of cranes towering over them with all the development of holiday towers going on. Very ugly. Drove through a few tunnels (sign stating Granada 91km, Malaga 130km). Today the road is very good and high above the Mediterranean Sea, often cut into rocky cliff. The roads in Spain so far are excellent, usually 3 lane highways and we have never seen so many trucks! Coffee stop at Calahonda under a huge rock cliff – I was keen to get going as there were big bits of rock all around us that are obviously continuing to erode! Drove to Nerja. Drinks with Bill and Malcolm in our van, then we all walked 5 mins into town to an English bar, then watched a fun Spanish band in the main square. Bill, Malcolm and John were in shouts, so when they were even I suggested we all go back to our place, so that they could continue and I could go to bed! They all agreed strangely enough!! The crowd consisted of approximately half Spanish and half English people – Nerja is now an English town in my opinion, as is much of the coast, although there are many Germans too. Lots of fireworks and a tradition is to eat 12 grapes on the 12 strikes of the bell. Australia’s New Year was at 3pm this afternoon, and Bill and Malcolm and half the people in Nerja celebrated New Year again at 1pm (New Year in England). There were cans everywhere containing just 12 grapes, especially for this tradition! Stayed free at Nerja.
Tues 1 Jan 2008 Malcolm, John and I went for a walk – beautiful clear blue sky warm day. Bill doesn’t do ‘walks’. Arrived at an animal refuge run by an English couple. Very moving to see all the donkeys, pigs, turkeys, horses, chickens, dogs and cats they had saved using their own resources. There are some very special people in this world. Their costs are huge, especially transport and veterinary bills. Gave a good donation. Lucky John, we don’t live here, as you were welcome to have any of the animals. Continued our walk to the camping sosta, 12 euros per night, and then along the beach back to our vans. Overwhelmingly English people everywhere, mostly retirees. Watched a Russell Crowe movie together, American Gangster, in Malcolm’s van (remember, we have had no TV for over 6 mths so a bit of a luxury!) Malcolm also always runs his heater, we have never used ours! Stayed at Nerja again.
Wed 2 Jan 2008 Went to an internet café and emailed Charles a Happy New Year. Pouring with rain so we all went to a Mexican bar/restaurant for beers, Malcolm whisky and coffee (me). Had some tapas – corn chips with dips but they vary a lot. All did some grocery shopping (still pouring). I made soup for dinner. Drinks in our van til 1am (as per usual). I really don’t know where Bill and Malcolm get their energy from.. all these late nights are wearing me out and they are much older than I!! Malcolm is incredible for 71 – never stops laughing – we really hit it off and I reckon John and Bill are more alike. Although we all got on very well together. We spoke to Chris (lives in Scotland) and Paul parked near us. Stayed in Nerja again.
Thurs 3 Jan 2008 We planned to drive Bill and Malcolm to see Frigiliana (6 kms inland) but it was pouring with rain. All decided to give it a miss. Lazy day – cold and wet. I cooked a stir fry and pancakes. Chris gave us the local Costa Blanca newspaper and a motorhome monthly magazine knowing we were selling our motorhome (very nice gesture). I gave Chris a dvd ‘American Gangster’. We swap books/dvds often with other motorhomers. All watched ‘Blood Diamond’ in Malcolm’s van – much whisky and beer to be had! Another very late night…… Stayed in Nerja again.
Fri 4 Jan 2008 Malcolm and Bill heading to Portugal via Torromolinos, and we to see a house for Gabriel in Las Alpujarras. We also need to stay in Spain to pick Jaki up from Seville on 2 Feb. Said our goodbyes (and to Chris and Paul) and swapped contact details. Departed for Frigiliana (Barb and Rolly’s recommendation) – picturesque, white washed houses with mostly natural wood or blue doors, narrow cobbled rock streets between the houses – with different coloured rocks making lovely patterns (common in Spain). Views from town (perched up high on a mountain) were of beautiful mountains and the Mediterranean about 4 kms down the valley – very beautiful. Andalucian village in the Sierra Almijara. John took photographs – we now have 1000s! Too many! Drove through Puente del Aguila and saw the XIXth century aqueduct which supplies water to Maro’s sugar factory. Drove to Solobrena, a Spanish coastal town consisting of a huddle of white houses with its long coast. Spoke to a 45 yo English guy who sold his house in England to live out his days in his motorhome with his 2 stray dogs! He plans to see all 48 European countries (we both calculated how many we’d seen so far) before he dies and can’t see the point in leaving his money behind. Why not? We have met a few people who live in their motorhomes (Malcolm, Barbara & Rolly – I would not be keen, although I am sure John would?!!). He told me Salobrena is a mostly Spanish town (refreshing after the gringo dominated coastal towns so far), that there is a salmon farm just off the coast which we had seen driving in from above, and that there are dolphins that live there. He was a wealth of information and told us the good spots to eat cheaply. That there is free wifi at the council, and it’s also offered by Spanish libraries. From Salobrena you can see the impressive and high 13th century Castillo Arabe. Went for a walk along the beach at dusk with John – I really like it here. Stayed at Salobrena right near beach.
Sat 5 January 2008 TO GABRIEL: John wanted to depart Salobrena (a lovely Spanish coastal town right on the beach) to drive to the Las Alpujarras in Andalucia; 70 kms of the great jumbled valleys of dry rocky mountains of the Alpujarras. To look at the mountains, views, area, villages, culture, and a house for our good friend Gabriel (12 Soledad Numero, Calle de Soledad Ferreirola, 150,000 euros fixed price, or so it says in the window of the house). Beautiful blue sky warm day, and this is the middle of winter! Cold at night though. Tonight is the Spanish children’s Christmas and they have a procession and throw lollies to the spectators – this is a long weekend in Spain, Mon is a bank holiday. Headed ever higher on a steep windy road, past a huge dam (broke the beauty), towards the snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and Las Alpujarras. The views of the dry rocky mountains were truly amazing. North bound (in front of us) was the snowed capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada and behind us we could see the Mediterranean. Drove through Orgiva (white cluster village) the capital of the Alpujarras, continuing through Carataunas (another white cluster village), to Pampaniera (1050m). A very picturesque little mountain village (white cluster of traditional houses with flat roofs) balancing precariously off a steep mountain). The traditional houses are made of stone, timber and mud with a flat roof and are often 500 years old. They are now all white washed which is a more recent development. Apparently it has antiseptic qualities and also keeps them cooler in summer. Anyways, it’s very pretty. The views from Pampaniera were amazing – the snow capped Sierra Nevada (the eternal snows of the high Sierras keep the 70 or so villages well watered all summer) right there in front of us, and the Mediterranean far below in the distance between 2 huge mountains. Walked around the cobbled streets of the little town (hippy new age shops, hand made leather sandals, outdoor stall selling locally grown vegies, books, rugs and souvenirs for sale). All these mountain villages have a lavandero (mountain water continuously runs into a series of washing tubs complete with permanent wash board on each, all under cover – see pic). Followed the steep cobbled street up and out of Pampaneira to a narrow, well marked dirt track that led to Bubion (1200m). What struck me was the beauty, peace and quiet stillness between the two white washed huddle of houses of Pampaneira below, and Bubion above. Reached Bubion (which has a bar, a few restaurants, even a tennis court, and all have a church, and an old lavandero – backbreaking work before whirlpool and cheap abundant fossil fuels, but interesting that washing was once a social activity compared to today where we stuff our clothes in machines in solitary confinement) and walked around in its beautiful quiet stillness. Bubion is an even higher picturesque white cluster village with the most fantastic breathtaking views in my opinion – could see the mountains in Morocco and far down in the valley between 2 mountains, a ship on the Mediterranean far below. (Prior to 1980 the whole of the Alpujarras were densely forested, but a fire rumoured to be started for a pulp paper co. burnt 1000s of acres, they then bought the wood at a fraction of its cost immediately afterwards. Although surprisingly, the countryside is still amazingly hauntingly beautiful, although mostly treeless except in patches). Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira 1440m, are three picturesque small villages and the most dramatically sited - and most touristed apparently, but not whilst we were there! So far the Spanish coast has been more touristed, but I am sure the Spanish and foreigners flee here from the coast in the hot summers. They all cling to the side of the deep Barranco de Poqueira Valley – 14-20 kms northeast of Orgiva. The village of Bubion is white so that the snow peaks of the Sierra Nevada seem just a continuation behind it! There are non-white traditional stone and mud flat roofed houses outside the villages so we saw them on the walk. Returned steeply down to Pampaniera (5 km round trip) in awe of the majestic mountains and scenery. The mountains are all terraced and irrigated – ubiquitous reminders of the flourishing Islamic/Visigoths/Romans past (whichever historian you believe). The Muslim communities replaced enmasse by Christian settlers in the 16th century. Visited a Spanish Café in the main square in the centre of town (not Englishfied like the Spanish coast – menu in Spanish (no English b’fast and roast with dumplings) and no English spoken. Melodious Spanish music played. Could recognise Choto (goat is widely eaten here) and Johnny recognised poor mans potatoes (another popular dish here). We have both read “Driving over Lemons – An Optimist in Andalucia” by Chris Stewart, which was very helpful. He was an Englishman who moved to a small farm in the Las Alpujarras and writes about his experiences, the locals, culture and lifestyle of the area. Had coffee, watching town life go by to Spanish music. Stayed in Pampaniera.
Sun 6 Jan 2008 TO GABRIEL: Left Pampaneira steeply for Pitres (10 kms). The caravan park recommended by Gabriel was closed. Beautiful warm blue sky day. Followed well signposted walking track to a little village called Atalbeitar enroute to look at a house for sale in Ferreirola. Very beautiful countryside, with the sound of running water from high up in the mountains almost continuously. There is much more vegetation on the Las Alpujarras than it seems when driving though them in the camper. Arrived at the white (all the houses white washed with lime) cluster village of Ferreirola (having past a Spanish goat herder and a Spanish girl, and 2 dogs). A beautiful, very quiet and peaceful village. A girl of about 10 was sitting near the lavendero, who we found out later was Helen’s daughter. Walked around looking for the house for sale and Eppi’s house (the owner). Saw 3 old people chatting in the sun with an amazing backdrop of huge rocky sheer mountains and a deep gorge below. The town to me was like stepping back in time to a gentler, more human paced way of life. A Spanish man gave us directions to Eppi’s house in perfect English. Forty seconds walk down the cobbled street. Eppi was not home but Helen, a women who lives a few doors up with 3 children and who has lived in the village for a few years, came and introduced herself. Helen said that Eppi runs a shop in Bubion but may be home after 2pm for lunch. However, it’s a special weekend in Spain and she may lunch with friends in Bubion. Helen took us to see the house which is about 6 along from hers (they are all joined – Spanish terrace houses). She told me on questioning that the pluses to living here were its picturesque scenery, climate, history and peace and quiet. I would like to add “its proximity to the mountains (skiing, walking or just admiring with a book) and the Mediterranean Coast – no where in Aust. can you get both!! And the coast could be too hot in Summer”. The minuses are that it’s pretty isolated, and no good if you are a sociable person as most people live here to get away (I thought how this would not suit me, but would suit Johnno). Gab – I reckon you are in between but you speak Spanish so could make friends more easily than one who doesn’t speak the language. In our opinion it is not very far from Pitres, Pampaneira, Bubion and even Orgiva – in fact, many little villages. It is also steep to get your shopping down to the house as you must park in the plaza (not an issue in our opinion). A bread van comes daily to the village and a bus to take people to the markets. Furthermore, there is no shop so you must drive to Pitres or it’s a very steep walk. Helen added that its cold in winter (Nov-April) she lit her last fire last year in April. We have had only warm glorious days here and yes, it gets cold at night; but we have never used our gas heater in the camper! I asked Helen about the huge development in town. She said that the locals are not very happy about it – 5 villas being built with a communal pool. The house is 2 storeys, fairly narrow, traditional, renovated and joined by a common wall to the neighbour. The view is stunning (we have many pics) of steep rocky mountains and a deep gorge. However, only 2 very small windows face the view (one on the ground floor and one on the top (2nd fl). The balcony is too small with no cover (too hot in summer with no cover, and you couldn’t sit there with friends as it is too small). There is no garden just a small window box along the front wall. Gab – I think you need some dirt to plant your chillis and parsley!! I believe, after seeing Bubion’s and Pampaneira’s views, that they are superior to Ferreirola’s (need to see the Mediterranean and the snow capped peaks!). We sat out the front of the house enjoying the views, warm sun and peace. John took lots of photos of the village, the house, the views, the vendre sign on the window etc for Gabriel. A man was looking down at us as he was watering his plants from a huge balcony 2 doors up. I realised that the balcony of no. 12 was way too small for tables/chairs and friends. No good. However, the view is right there and very spectacular – a treed mountain. Soulful Spanish music wafted from a house and broke the extreme quietness. John noticed some asbestos on the roof of the house (we are pretty experienced with the stuff after removing it from Stanmore). Eppi has still not returned. Very cool under the traditional heavy balconies everywhere. The cobbled narrow streets are designed with an indent in the centre to allow the mountain water to run down them. We had already returned along the dirt track to the mountain water fountain with its lovely ornate tiles bordering it. Waited for Eppi until 4pm but she didn’t return. We departed along the rest of the dirt walking trail to the sound of goat bells and running water in the distance. A few cats and a dog were sunbaking. This town is definitely more Spanish than foreigners. A Spanish family passed us on foot on the narrow steep track with a huge basket of black olives. Further along we passed a goat herder whom we’d recognised earlier at the fountain. Prickly Pear, cactus and olives are abundant. Looked for an old Muslim bridge but we had unfortunately taken the wrong turn. Walked through Fondales (little mountain village), then to Mecinilla, then to Mecina (a little dog followed us from Fondales to Mecina). Had coffee and beer on hotel porch here on a glorious day with beautiful views. Very steep walk up rocky path but lovely views, back to Pitres. Drove to Bubion and watched the sun set over the Moroccan mountains across the Mediterranean. Had a coffee/beer in a funky bar with an open fire going. Walked along the main street/road to another bar/restaurant and Johnny had another beer. John wanted to go to dinner and when he finally picked one they said they didn’t open til 7.30pm. I cooked dinner and we stayed at Bubion with magic views.
Mon 7 Jan 2008 (Public (bank) holiday) Left descending steeply from Bubion at 11.30am. Sheer rock cliffs on either side most of the time. Mountains amazing. Warm blue sky day. Sore ears at Orgiva from fast descent. Drove through Lanjaron, to Granada – Andalucia – traditional hotbed of flamenco. We are visiting the Alhambra (UNESCO world heritage site) on many recommendations, and meeting Kris and Julie our Canadian friends. Colder here than in the Alpujarras at 1400m! Found some very expensive campervan parking. The city of Granada embodies the mystery of Islamic Spain. The Alhambra Palace-Fortress is perched on a hill top known as La Sabika, in woods of cypress and elm. Very different to anything else we have seen in Europe so far – no doubt because it is Arabic and marvellously decorated. We wandered the Palacio Nazaries (the most brilliant Islamic building in Europe with many rooms and courtyards – intricately moulded stucco walls, beautiful tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and amazing elaborate stalactite-like vaulting, with Arabic inscriptions proliferating in the stuccowork. Then wandered the generalife gardens (where water is an art form), and the Alcazaba (citadel) including its watchtower with great views over Granada (although it was very smoggy). Amazing and fascinating history. Washington Irving (romantic writer) stayed briefly in the 1820s and wrote ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ now heavily restored. Unfortunately the Museo de la Alhambra was closed (holds a collection of Islamic artefacts found in and around Granada). Saw a photographic exhibition of photos of the Alhambra taken with the early black and white cameras. Walked back to our camper and Julie and Kris turned up shortly afterwards. A German couple (Christophe, Gabriel, and Bongo the dog) told us a great free spot to park for the night up on the mountain 3 kms away in the national recreation park with views of the Sierra Nevada and Granada. We all headed there for the night (very misty, cold and couldn’t see past 2 metres in front of you) and swapped stories of our motorhoming adventures so far.
Tues 8 January 2008 Slept in and awoke to an amazing view of a snow covered huge mountain (Sierra Nevada) and Granada below. Many joggers, hikers and cyclists past by today. Kris, Julie, and John went for a very steep 8 km walk to get some groceries. Julie cooked a lovely stew and they all drank wine into the wee hours. Great night. Stayed outside Granada at recreation park on the mountain again.
Wed 9 January 2008 Said our goodbyes to Kris and Julie who are off to Almeria. We to find the natural thermal springs around Alhama de Granada (that Barb and Rolly had told us about back in France). Went through a housing development with only lamp posts and roads. Drove through some small towns and dry rolling hills with olive trees all the way before reaching Alhama de Granada. Alhama has an amazing deep gorge, old ruins in the town, and in the gorge. Followed the path on the edge of the old part of town along the top of a cliff. Amazing lovely views. Saw the old dungeons (no longer in use) used in the past for storing wheat, for prisoners during a few wars who ensured chains and beatings, and, they were also lived in by people in extreme poverty. Had a walk around the beautiful town – many crumbling beautiful old places (although foreigners and some Spanish are slowly buying and restoring them). Visited the old church and 15th century ? hospital. Parked outside the tourist office and police station on a cobbled road in Alhama de Granada.
Thursday 10 Jan 2008 John disappeared for 2 hours for a walk, a visit to the tourist office for maps and info. and local library to use the internet. On his return he told me that the bridge we passed on the way into town was from the 1st century. Drove to the hot springs 2 kms away. John had already walked to them up a huge mountain. Beautiful gorge, bit of a dirt track lined with olive trees, and local shaking them out of the trees into huge nets laid out on the ground. We both lay in the thermal spring. Fantastic, relaxing, and warm and surrounded by beautiful countryside. Lucky the thermal spring is not in the Rough Guide to Spain or the Lonely Planet Spain or it would be so crowded you wouldn’t be able to get in. Spoke to a local man who grew up in Alhama de Granada and he told me that the hotel next door has a thermal spring pool indoors. The hotel diverted the thermal water straight into the river, rather than into the bath on the river, so that the locals could no longer use/bath in it. The hotel did not think the look of old Spanish men bathing in their y fronts at the entrance to their grand expensive hotel was good for business (John thinks this is fair enough!). The locals protested so loudly that the water belonged to everybody that the hotel begrudgingly had to return the thermal water to the concrete bath on the river bank. I thought it was so wonderful to have all the local people (peasants and farmers) arriving with their soap and having a bath in it (I recognised the olive pickers and tractor driver). So, John and I did the same! The Spanish man answered all my questions, and told me that the abandoned crumbling houses were too expensive for locals to renovate, but that foreigners were buying and renovating them. He had lived in England for 12 years but said he never felt at home. I cooked salmon for lunch and we then returned for a last soak in the thermal spring. Drove back to town and used the library internet (Michelle as our house needs a new gas hot water system $1800, Nik and Katy), had a coffee/2 beers and 2 tapas at a local bar. Chatted to two local Spanish men with no English, we no Spanish for a while! Felt very refreshed from the spring reputed to have healing properties. Stayed again at Alhama de Granada.
Friday 11 January 2008 Departed at 11am and drove steeply up for approx. 10 km through Zafarraya. A sign just past this tiny town stated “Province of Malaga”. Sheer cliffs, steep amazing rocky mountains - we’re now descending steeply to the coast. The road clings to the mountain and is quite narrow and had fallen away in a few places. Looking down at valleys and ahead to mountains, with villages in the valley and scattered up higher on the mountains, surrounded by olive trees. Arrived at Torremolinos on the Costa del Sol and drove the road horizontal to the seafront path to all the shops (Burger King, souvenirs and English breakfasts). Sent text to Malcolm and Bill but they were already in Portugal. The mountains in the distance bordering Torremolinos look lovely and the beach is also nice but the sand is greyish brown. The rest is touristic ugly development. The old part of town is apparently not without charm but we parked up in front of new villas opposite the beach. Two Spanish motorhomes arrived and we tried to converse with great difficulty but worked out that we were all staying the night and that they had a relative living in Sydney. John went for a walk to top up his UK mobile (which has been impossible so far) and I cooked a stew. Gabriel sent us a text. Stayed at Torremolinos opposite the beach.
Sat 12 January 2008 Left for Marbella Caravan Park recommended to us by Kris and Julie as it has wifi (blog and emails) and we needed to do our washing. Followed the coast road and not the toll way which is inland and they are usually not scenic. Drove through Fuengirola, then through Toranueva. Arrived at Camping Marbella Playa and stayed the night.
Sunday 13 January 2008 I did a lot of washing by hand. Met Jim Bell parked in front of us (whom we hung out with for the rest of the stay. A retired Scottish man who lives with his wife Judy and their 2 poodles Sammy and Lenny on the Isle of Man.) All went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and when we went to pay Jim had already paid for us all. Very kind of him. Lovely evening. Fun late night chatting. Stayed Marbella again.
Monday 14 January 2008 Got a password for the internet today. Cooked a bbq with Jim and had another late fun night chatting. John and I watched Romulus my Father (very sad movie). Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Tuesday 15 January 2008 I cooked stir-fry for Jim and John. Late night chatting and drinking together. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Wednesday 16 January 2008 John put our campervan on the Loot website for a fee. Jim, John and I all went out to a Danish café for dinner and had garlic prawns and hamburgers. Came back to our camper for drinks and late night chatting. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Thursday 17 January 2008 John and I vacuumed and washed our motorhome for the first time today. We went for a walk along the beach. I made lamb cutlets and roast veg for Jim, John and I. The English couple from Norwich (Carol and Murray) arrived and we had drinks and chatted to them all night in Jim’s palatial huge motorhome with pop out sides. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Friday 18 January 2008 Carol and Murray came by to chat to Jim, John and I in the afternoon sun. Linda did the blog… boring… Someone sent a text re our loot advertisement for our motorhome. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Saturday 19 January 2008 Walk along the beach. Relaxed and watched movies.
22 December 2007 Looked at David and Sharon’s blog again about their trip to Granada in 2000 and Condoba in 2005 for tips. Joe and Claire skyped us and gave us a tour of their lovely apartment, they both look great, and we saw their new cat. John downloaded camping car sights for the tom tom most of the day. We both walked in the pouring rain into Albir to a café run by an English couple and had big English breakfasts and tea/beer. You’ve no idea how good this is when you have been in Italy and France for months where they are impossible to find! Walked back to Alfas del Pi in the pouring rain, relaxed, emailed, and stayed the night again.
23 December 2007 We walked into Albir to the English couple’s café again, and again it was pouring rain. Both had a roast dinner and tea/beer which was very nice. We don’t have a gas oven in the van, only electric, so you need to be hooked up to power to use it. Peter visited us and invited us to his place. John and Peter drank cheap wine/whisky (alcohol and cigarettes are the only things in Spain that are cheaper than Australia!!), chatted and watched English TV, and I did 2 loads of washing (thanks Peter). Poured all day so was nice to be at Peter’s in front of the heater. Walked home to van in Alfas del Pi in pouring rain again.
24 December 2007 After receiving helpful feedback from Stuart/Collette and David/Sharon we placed our advert on Gumtree for our camper. Jaki emailed us her flights – we pick her up on 2 Feb in Seville and drop her in Lisbon Portugal on 15 Feb. We are looking forward to seeing her and travelling together. Hugh skyped us to say Merry Christmas which was a really nice surprise and made my day – thanks Hugh for having all your technology back up and running on time to skype us for Christmas – much appreciated. Spoke to Alex – they are going to Tina’s for Christmas, Jen is in Vietnam for 5 weeks with Scotty over Chrissy. Paid our 72 euros for the last few nights and emptied waste water etc. Met 2 weird hippies who came over to chat to us as they had also been staying at ‘Costa Blanca Motorhome Park’ also. Said goodbye to Willem and Marlene (Danish) who we met at Peniscola and were also staying here. Did some grocery shopping in Albir and drove to Peter’s villa. Our washing was dry on his line and eventually Peter arrived drunk! John made fantastic turkey green curry for Christmas Eve. Watched movies with Peter (Adrift). Stayed at Peter’s in Alfas del Pi.
Tues 25 December 2007 Perfect warm blue sky day approx. 19 degrees. Sat in sun with Peter and John over coffee. Walked into Albir and caught the bus to Benidorm to the Union Jack Pub. Peter had wanted us all to have Christmas together here. It was smoky and very loud and the turkey roast was not that great. The place was packed with English people. John and I went for a walk along the promenade at Benidorm main beach – what a horrible place. Concrete high-rises everywhere – think Gold Coast. John calls it the ‘jewel of the Costa Blanca’! unfortunately the rest of the Spanish coast so far has not been much better. Returned to the Union Jack to pick up Peter who was not there. We bussed back to Peter’s and the lights were on and he was home. All watched movies together and we stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Wed 26 December 2007 I slept in whilst John changed the fan belt. Beautiful blue sky day around 19 degrees. Quiet day, watch movies (vampire movie, Blade, Master & Commander). I cooked dinner for John and Peter whilst the lightening started and it began to pour with rain. Stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Thurs 27 December 2007 Rain had stopped, warm with beautiful blue skies. Sat in the morning sun with Peter and John and said goodbye/thankyou to Peter. This is the sad thing about motorhoming, you become friends with people that you get on so well with, and then have to leave. Also being Australian the chance of seeing them again is remote. This is one thing I don’t like! John took photos of us all for my memories. Departed at 11.45am and filled up, and headed through La Nucia (new and ugly). Imposing rock mountains with amazing sharp skyline in front of us that we could see from Alfas del Pi. Continued through Polop de la Marina towards those beautiful amazing mountains. Arrived at Guadalest (history goes back to at least AD 715) with its stone castle “Castillo de San Jose” perched on a very steep top of a rock cliff with amazing rock spire. Amazing rocky sharp mountains with a sea green dam down in the valley. Strolled around this traffic-free village which has become a tourist trap – kitsch souvenir shops everywhere. However, we visited the ‘museo etnologico’ (free but compulsory donation) which showed a very interesting account of Guadalest peasant life before cheap abundant fossil fuels (the animals: goats, pig, chickens, lived under the house, olives and grapes were crushed for oil and wine). Drove to Santa Pola and inadvertently found many motorhomes parked on the water (sign stating “NO MOTORHOMES”, but they get around it because it also states “TOURIST PARKING”, so we parked where we could hear the waves lapping all night. Saw GB number plates so went over and introduced ourselves to Bill and Malcolm. Stayed free at Santa Pola.
Fri 28 December 2008 Malcolm and Bill came over to say they were going to get water and offered to take John with his 3 20 litre jerry cans to collect some. Warm lovely blue sky day. They were all gone for ages.. so I walked up to the supermarket along the beach to get some groceries. It was very relaxing, quiet and not many people around. Very late night in our van with Bill (55, lives near Bath England) and Malcolm (71, English but lived in Spain for past 20 years). Much beer and whisky drinking and lovely company. Swapped interesting stories. Stayed at Santa Pola again.
Sat 29 December 2008 Charles got home to London today. Left at 10.15am in a convoy towards Murcia. Murcia is under a smoky haze – yuk. Dry, flat, rocky, dusty, arid landscape with many palm trees and concrete towers – very ugly. Apparently all this development has occurred in the last 10 years spurned on by foreigners immigrating to warm Spain (English, German, Netherlanders etc). Drove through Albatera (like a huge construction zone). Arrived at Mojacar and parked on the beach where there were already many motorhomes parked. John made a lovely big b’fast for dinner. Bill, Malcolm and John were told to move by the police. I went and asked a few other English people parked near us who had not been told to move why we had. We were told that it was because Bill had his levelling ramps out – apparently you can not have washing drying, stairs pulled out from the doorway, awnings out etc as this is officially ‘camping’. We were all about to sit around and relax and so were disappointed that we had to move – this is the first time we have ever been moved on, but we had been warned about it. France is by far the best country for motorhoming with many places to stay with water, waste water and toilet dumps and free. Drove through the night (something we try not to do). By the way – John is very good at driving on the wrong (right) side of the road in a left hand drive. I don’t drive the motorhome any more even though we both purchased international licenses in Australia. It feels huge, is very wide and I feel like I take the whole road up! Drove about 20 kms to Agua Amergia with Bill and Malcolm following John. Down to the sand on the beach Bill got bogged and Malcolm pulled him out. The 3 of us parked side by side in Agua Amergia, a very pretty town with beautiful surrounding countryside.
Sun 30 December 2007 John had a shower in the motorhome and we departed at 12.35pm. Beautiful blue sky day. Magic ocean views looking down on the little village where we stayed from the high points we had driven. Agua Amergia looked beautiful – white washed houses, lovely coastline – John took photographs of Carboneras (Bay) in Gabo National Park. Very arid, lowest rainfall in Europe, treeless, rocky and mountainous - westerns are filmed here. The landscape of Almeria is like much of Southern Spain – dominated by mountain chains composed of hard, ancient rocks formed by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, ending some 10 million years ago. Quite stunning. I really like Spain now.. since leaving the touristed concrete jungles of the coast! Headed towards Nijar, Almeria, as John wants to see the ancient castle there. John, against the better judgement of Malcolm and Bill who were no longer following, got us stuck in a narrow cobbled street. Very stressful with 4mm to spare between concrete flats in front and concrete overhang behind. All these Spanish men appeared from no where and starting giving orders and helping John all in loud Spanish. The townsfolk all watching this spectacle from above on the balconies. Some were pushing the car from behind, others pushing down on one corner of the bonnet as her wheels were spinning but she wasn’t moving. John thinks its really funny that the Spanish men were putting their finger to their mouths saying shhhh to me!!!! Yes, I was stressed as was John – but I was more vocal…and had visions of our crushed motorhome being unsaleable! The Spanish men were so helpful and there was much MUCHUS GRACIAS from John after they got us out. Text to Bill and Malcolm who had been to see the castle. They found us eventually and we all departed (sadly without John seeing the castle after our ordeal) to Roquetas del Mar in the Almeria region where we all stayed near the beach.
Mon 31 December 2007 We all filled up with diesel and water and continued in our convoy towards Nerja. Bill is determined we all celebrate New Years in Nerja. The country from Roquetas del Mar through Los Yesos, La Mamola to Nerja was dry, rugged, rocky, arid mountains and the flat land covered by plastic glass houses as far as the eye can see. All the towns on the coast have an abundance of cranes towering over them with all the development of holiday towers going on. Very ugly. Drove through a few tunnels (sign stating Granada 91km, Malaga 130km). Today the road is very good and high above the Mediterranean Sea, often cut into rocky cliff. The roads in Spain so far are excellent, usually 3 lane highways and we have never seen so many trucks! Coffee stop at Calahonda under a huge rock cliff – I was keen to get going as there were big bits of rock all around us that are obviously continuing to erode! Drove to Nerja. Drinks with Bill and Malcolm in our van, then we all walked 5 mins into town to an English bar, then watched a fun Spanish band in the main square. Bill, Malcolm and John were in shouts, so when they were even I suggested we all go back to our place, so that they could continue and I could go to bed! They all agreed strangely enough!! The crowd consisted of approximately half Spanish and half English people – Nerja is now an English town in my opinion, as is much of the coast, although there are many Germans too. Lots of fireworks and a tradition is to eat 12 grapes on the 12 strikes of the bell. Australia’s New Year was at 3pm this afternoon, and Bill and Malcolm and half the people in Nerja celebrated New Year again at 1pm (New Year in England). There were cans everywhere containing just 12 grapes, especially for this tradition! Stayed free at Nerja.
Tues 1 Jan 2008 Malcolm, John and I went for a walk – beautiful clear blue sky warm day. Bill doesn’t do ‘walks’. Arrived at an animal refuge run by an English couple. Very moving to see all the donkeys, pigs, turkeys, horses, chickens, dogs and cats they had saved using their own resources. There are some very special people in this world. Their costs are huge, especially transport and veterinary bills. Gave a good donation. Lucky John, we don’t live here, as you were welcome to have any of the animals. Continued our walk to the camping sosta, 12 euros per night, and then along the beach back to our vans. Overwhelmingly English people everywhere, mostly retirees. Watched a Russell Crowe movie together, American Gangster, in Malcolm’s van (remember, we have had no TV for over 6 mths so a bit of a luxury!) Malcolm also always runs his heater, we have never used ours! Stayed at Nerja again.
Wed 2 Jan 2008 Went to an internet café and emailed Charles a Happy New Year. Pouring with rain so we all went to a Mexican bar/restaurant for beers, Malcolm whisky and coffee (me). Had some tapas – corn chips with dips but they vary a lot. All did some grocery shopping (still pouring). I made soup for dinner. Drinks in our van til 1am (as per usual). I really don’t know where Bill and Malcolm get their energy from.. all these late nights are wearing me out and they are much older than I!! Malcolm is incredible for 71 – never stops laughing – we really hit it off and I reckon John and Bill are more alike. Although we all got on very well together. We spoke to Chris (lives in Scotland) and Paul parked near us. Stayed in Nerja again.
Thurs 3 Jan 2008 We planned to drive Bill and Malcolm to see Frigiliana (6 kms inland) but it was pouring with rain. All decided to give it a miss. Lazy day – cold and wet. I cooked a stir fry and pancakes. Chris gave us the local Costa Blanca newspaper and a motorhome monthly magazine knowing we were selling our motorhome (very nice gesture). I gave Chris a dvd ‘American Gangster’. We swap books/dvds often with other motorhomers. All watched ‘Blood Diamond’ in Malcolm’s van – much whisky and beer to be had! Another very late night…… Stayed in Nerja again.
Fri 4 Jan 2008 Malcolm and Bill heading to Portugal via Torromolinos, and we to see a house for Gabriel in Las Alpujarras. We also need to stay in Spain to pick Jaki up from Seville on 2 Feb. Said our goodbyes (and to Chris and Paul) and swapped contact details. Departed for Frigiliana (Barb and Rolly’s recommendation) – picturesque, white washed houses with mostly natural wood or blue doors, narrow cobbled rock streets between the houses – with different coloured rocks making lovely patterns (common in Spain). Views from town (perched up high on a mountain) were of beautiful mountains and the Mediterranean about 4 kms down the valley – very beautiful. Andalucian village in the Sierra Almijara. John took photographs – we now have 1000s! Too many! Drove through Puente del Aguila and saw the XIXth century aqueduct which supplies water to Maro’s sugar factory. Drove to Solobrena, a Spanish coastal town consisting of a huddle of white houses with its long coast. Spoke to a 45 yo English guy who sold his house in England to live out his days in his motorhome with his 2 stray dogs! He plans to see all 48 European countries (we both calculated how many we’d seen so far) before he dies and can’t see the point in leaving his money behind. Why not? We have met a few people who live in their motorhomes (Malcolm, Barbara & Rolly – I would not be keen, although I am sure John would?!!). He told me Salobrena is a mostly Spanish town (refreshing after the gringo dominated coastal towns so far), that there is a salmon farm just off the coast which we had seen driving in from above, and that there are dolphins that live there. He was a wealth of information and told us the good spots to eat cheaply. That there is free wifi at the council, and it’s also offered by Spanish libraries. From Salobrena you can see the impressive and high 13th century Castillo Arabe. Went for a walk along the beach at dusk with John – I really like it here. Stayed at Salobrena right near beach.
Sat 5 January 2008 TO GABRIEL: John wanted to depart Salobrena (a lovely Spanish coastal town right on the beach) to drive to the Las Alpujarras in Andalucia; 70 kms of the great jumbled valleys of dry rocky mountains of the Alpujarras. To look at the mountains, views, area, villages, culture, and a house for our good friend Gabriel (12 Soledad Numero, Calle de Soledad Ferreirola, 150,000 euros fixed price, or so it says in the window of the house). Beautiful blue sky warm day, and this is the middle of winter! Cold at night though. Tonight is the Spanish children’s Christmas and they have a procession and throw lollies to the spectators – this is a long weekend in Spain, Mon is a bank holiday. Headed ever higher on a steep windy road, past a huge dam (broke the beauty), towards the snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and Las Alpujarras. The views of the dry rocky mountains were truly amazing. North bound (in front of us) was the snowed capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada and behind us we could see the Mediterranean. Drove through Orgiva (white cluster village) the capital of the Alpujarras, continuing through Carataunas (another white cluster village), to Pampaniera (1050m). A very picturesque little mountain village (white cluster of traditional houses with flat roofs) balancing precariously off a steep mountain). The traditional houses are made of stone, timber and mud with a flat roof and are often 500 years old. They are now all white washed which is a more recent development. Apparently it has antiseptic qualities and also keeps them cooler in summer. Anyways, it’s very pretty. The views from Pampaniera were amazing – the snow capped Sierra Nevada (the eternal snows of the high Sierras keep the 70 or so villages well watered all summer) right there in front of us, and the Mediterranean far below in the distance between 2 huge mountains. Walked around the cobbled streets of the little town (hippy new age shops, hand made leather sandals, outdoor stall selling locally grown vegies, books, rugs and souvenirs for sale). All these mountain villages have a lavandero (mountain water continuously runs into a series of washing tubs complete with permanent wash board on each, all under cover – see pic). Followed the steep cobbled street up and out of Pampaneira to a narrow, well marked dirt track that led to Bubion (1200m). What struck me was the beauty, peace and quiet stillness between the two white washed huddle of houses of Pampaneira below, and Bubion above. Reached Bubion (which has a bar, a few restaurants, even a tennis court, and all have a church, and an old lavandero – backbreaking work before whirlpool and cheap abundant fossil fuels, but interesting that washing was once a social activity compared to today where we stuff our clothes in machines in solitary confinement) and walked around in its beautiful quiet stillness. Bubion is an even higher picturesque white cluster village with the most fantastic breathtaking views in my opinion – could see the mountains in Morocco and far down in the valley between 2 mountains, a ship on the Mediterranean far below. (Prior to 1980 the whole of the Alpujarras were densely forested, but a fire rumoured to be started for a pulp paper co. burnt 1000s of acres, they then bought the wood at a fraction of its cost immediately afterwards. Although surprisingly, the countryside is still amazingly hauntingly beautiful, although mostly treeless except in patches). Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira 1440m, are three picturesque small villages and the most dramatically sited - and most touristed apparently, but not whilst we were there! So far the Spanish coast has been more touristed, but I am sure the Spanish and foreigners flee here from the coast in the hot summers. They all cling to the side of the deep Barranco de Poqueira Valley – 14-20 kms northeast of Orgiva. The village of Bubion is white so that the snow peaks of the Sierra Nevada seem just a continuation behind it! There are non-white traditional stone and mud flat roofed houses outside the villages so we saw them on the walk. Returned steeply down to Pampaniera (5 km round trip) in awe of the majestic mountains and scenery. The mountains are all terraced and irrigated – ubiquitous reminders of the flourishing Islamic/Visigoths/Romans past (whichever historian you believe). The Muslim communities replaced enmasse by Christian settlers in the 16th century. Visited a Spanish Café in the main square in the centre of town (not Englishfied like the Spanish coast – menu in Spanish (no English b’fast and roast with dumplings) and no English spoken. Melodious Spanish music played. Could recognise Choto (goat is widely eaten here) and Johnny recognised poor mans potatoes (another popular dish here). We have both read “Driving over Lemons – An Optimist in Andalucia” by Chris Stewart, which was very helpful. He was an Englishman who moved to a small farm in the Las Alpujarras and writes about his experiences, the locals, culture and lifestyle of the area. Had coffee, watching town life go by to Spanish music. Stayed in Pampaniera.
Sun 6 Jan 2008 TO GABRIEL: Left Pampaneira steeply for Pitres (10 kms). The caravan park recommended by Gabriel was closed. Beautiful warm blue sky day. Followed well signposted walking track to a little village called Atalbeitar enroute to look at a house for sale in Ferreirola. Very beautiful countryside, with the sound of running water from high up in the mountains almost continuously. There is much more vegetation on the Las Alpujarras than it seems when driving though them in the camper. Arrived at the white (all the houses white washed with lime) cluster village of Ferreirola (having past a Spanish goat herder and a Spanish girl, and 2 dogs). A beautiful, very quiet and peaceful village. A girl of about 10 was sitting near the lavendero, who we found out later was Helen’s daughter. Walked around looking for the house for sale and Eppi’s house (the owner). Saw 3 old people chatting in the sun with an amazing backdrop of huge rocky sheer mountains and a deep gorge below. The town to me was like stepping back in time to a gentler, more human paced way of life. A Spanish man gave us directions to Eppi’s house in perfect English. Forty seconds walk down the cobbled street. Eppi was not home but Helen, a women who lives a few doors up with 3 children and who has lived in the village for a few years, came and introduced herself. Helen said that Eppi runs a shop in Bubion but may be home after 2pm for lunch. However, it’s a special weekend in Spain and she may lunch with friends in Bubion. Helen took us to see the house which is about 6 along from hers (they are all joined – Spanish terrace houses). She told me on questioning that the pluses to living here were its picturesque scenery, climate, history and peace and quiet. I would like to add “its proximity to the mountains (skiing, walking or just admiring with a book) and the Mediterranean Coast – no where in Aust. can you get both!! And the coast could be too hot in Summer”. The minuses are that it’s pretty isolated, and no good if you are a sociable person as most people live here to get away (I thought how this would not suit me, but would suit Johnno). Gab – I reckon you are in between but you speak Spanish so could make friends more easily than one who doesn’t speak the language. In our opinion it is not very far from Pitres, Pampaneira, Bubion and even Orgiva – in fact, many little villages. It is also steep to get your shopping down to the house as you must park in the plaza (not an issue in our opinion). A bread van comes daily to the village and a bus to take people to the markets. Furthermore, there is no shop so you must drive to Pitres or it’s a very steep walk. Helen added that its cold in winter (Nov-April) she lit her last fire last year in April. We have had only warm glorious days here and yes, it gets cold at night; but we have never used our gas heater in the camper! I asked Helen about the huge development in town. She said that the locals are not very happy about it – 5 villas being built with a communal pool. The house is 2 storeys, fairly narrow, traditional, renovated and joined by a common wall to the neighbour. The view is stunning (we have many pics) of steep rocky mountains and a deep gorge. However, only 2 very small windows face the view (one on the ground floor and one on the top (2nd fl). The balcony is too small with no cover (too hot in summer with no cover, and you couldn’t sit there with friends as it is too small). There is no garden just a small window box along the front wall. Gab – I think you need some dirt to plant your chillis and parsley!! I believe, after seeing Bubion’s and Pampaneira’s views, that they are superior to Ferreirola’s (need to see the Mediterranean and the snow capped peaks!). We sat out the front of the house enjoying the views, warm sun and peace. John took lots of photos of the village, the house, the views, the vendre sign on the window etc for Gabriel. A man was looking down at us as he was watering his plants from a huge balcony 2 doors up. I realised that the balcony of no. 12 was way too small for tables/chairs and friends. No good. However, the view is right there and very spectacular – a treed mountain. Soulful Spanish music wafted from a house and broke the extreme quietness. John noticed some asbestos on the roof of the house (we are pretty experienced with the stuff after removing it from Stanmore). Eppi has still not returned. Very cool under the traditional heavy balconies everywhere. The cobbled narrow streets are designed with an indent in the centre to allow the mountain water to run down them. We had already returned along the dirt track to the mountain water fountain with its lovely ornate tiles bordering it. Waited for Eppi until 4pm but she didn’t return. We departed along the rest of the dirt walking trail to the sound of goat bells and running water in the distance. A few cats and a dog were sunbaking. This town is definitely more Spanish than foreigners. A Spanish family passed us on foot on the narrow steep track with a huge basket of black olives. Further along we passed a goat herder whom we’d recognised earlier at the fountain. Prickly Pear, cactus and olives are abundant. Looked for an old Muslim bridge but we had unfortunately taken the wrong turn. Walked through Fondales (little mountain village), then to Mecinilla, then to Mecina (a little dog followed us from Fondales to Mecina). Had coffee and beer on hotel porch here on a glorious day with beautiful views. Very steep walk up rocky path but lovely views, back to Pitres. Drove to Bubion and watched the sun set over the Moroccan mountains across the Mediterranean. Had a coffee/beer in a funky bar with an open fire going. Walked along the main street/road to another bar/restaurant and Johnny had another beer. John wanted to go to dinner and when he finally picked one they said they didn’t open til 7.30pm. I cooked dinner and we stayed at Bubion with magic views.
Mon 7 Jan 2008 (Public (bank) holiday) Left descending steeply from Bubion at 11.30am. Sheer rock cliffs on either side most of the time. Mountains amazing. Warm blue sky day. Sore ears at Orgiva from fast descent. Drove through Lanjaron, to Granada – Andalucia – traditional hotbed of flamenco. We are visiting the Alhambra (UNESCO world heritage site) on many recommendations, and meeting Kris and Julie our Canadian friends. Colder here than in the Alpujarras at 1400m! Found some very expensive campervan parking. The city of Granada embodies the mystery of Islamic Spain. The Alhambra Palace-Fortress is perched on a hill top known as La Sabika, in woods of cypress and elm. Very different to anything else we have seen in Europe so far – no doubt because it is Arabic and marvellously decorated. We wandered the Palacio Nazaries (the most brilliant Islamic building in Europe with many rooms and courtyards – intricately moulded stucco walls, beautiful tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and amazing elaborate stalactite-like vaulting, with Arabic inscriptions proliferating in the stuccowork. Then wandered the generalife gardens (where water is an art form), and the Alcazaba (citadel) including its watchtower with great views over Granada (although it was very smoggy). Amazing and fascinating history. Washington Irving (romantic writer) stayed briefly in the 1820s and wrote ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ now heavily restored. Unfortunately the Museo de la Alhambra was closed (holds a collection of Islamic artefacts found in and around Granada). Saw a photographic exhibition of photos of the Alhambra taken with the early black and white cameras. Walked back to our camper and Julie and Kris turned up shortly afterwards. A German couple (Christophe, Gabriel, and Bongo the dog) told us a great free spot to park for the night up on the mountain 3 kms away in the national recreation park with views of the Sierra Nevada and Granada. We all headed there for the night (very misty, cold and couldn’t see past 2 metres in front of you) and swapped stories of our motorhoming adventures so far.
Tues 8 January 2008 Slept in and awoke to an amazing view of a snow covered huge mountain (Sierra Nevada) and Granada below. Many joggers, hikers and cyclists past by today. Kris, Julie, and John went for a very steep 8 km walk to get some groceries. Julie cooked a lovely stew and they all drank wine into the wee hours. Great night. Stayed outside Granada at recreation park on the mountain again.
Wed 9 January 2008 Said our goodbyes to Kris and Julie who are off to Almeria. We to find the natural thermal springs around Alhama de Granada (that Barb and Rolly had told us about back in France). Went through a housing development with only lamp posts and roads. Drove through some small towns and dry rolling hills with olive trees all the way before reaching Alhama de Granada. Alhama has an amazing deep gorge, old ruins in the town, and in the gorge. Followed the path on the edge of the old part of town along the top of a cliff. Amazing lovely views. Saw the old dungeons (no longer in use) used in the past for storing wheat, for prisoners during a few wars who ensured chains and beatings, and, they were also lived in by people in extreme poverty. Had a walk around the beautiful town – many crumbling beautiful old places (although foreigners and some Spanish are slowly buying and restoring them). Visited the old church and 15th century ? hospital. Parked outside the tourist office and police station on a cobbled road in Alhama de Granada.
Thursday 10 Jan 2008 John disappeared for 2 hours for a walk, a visit to the tourist office for maps and info. and local library to use the internet. On his return he told me that the bridge we passed on the way into town was from the 1st century. Drove to the hot springs 2 kms away. John had already walked to them up a huge mountain. Beautiful gorge, bit of a dirt track lined with olive trees, and local shaking them out of the trees into huge nets laid out on the ground. We both lay in the thermal spring. Fantastic, relaxing, and warm and surrounded by beautiful countryside. Lucky the thermal spring is not in the Rough Guide to Spain or the Lonely Planet Spain or it would be so crowded you wouldn’t be able to get in. Spoke to a local man who grew up in Alhama de Granada and he told me that the hotel next door has a thermal spring pool indoors. The hotel diverted the thermal water straight into the river, rather than into the bath on the river, so that the locals could no longer use/bath in it. The hotel did not think the look of old Spanish men bathing in their y fronts at the entrance to their grand expensive hotel was good for business (John thinks this is fair enough!). The locals protested so loudly that the water belonged to everybody that the hotel begrudgingly had to return the thermal water to the concrete bath on the river bank. I thought it was so wonderful to have all the local people (peasants and farmers) arriving with their soap and having a bath in it (I recognised the olive pickers and tractor driver). So, John and I did the same! The Spanish man answered all my questions, and told me that the abandoned crumbling houses were too expensive for locals to renovate, but that foreigners were buying and renovating them. He had lived in England for 12 years but said he never felt at home. I cooked salmon for lunch and we then returned for a last soak in the thermal spring. Drove back to town and used the library internet (Michelle as our house needs a new gas hot water system $1800, Nik and Katy), had a coffee/2 beers and 2 tapas at a local bar. Chatted to two local Spanish men with no English, we no Spanish for a while! Felt very refreshed from the spring reputed to have healing properties. Stayed again at Alhama de Granada.
Friday 11 January 2008 Departed at 11am and drove steeply up for approx. 10 km through Zafarraya. A sign just past this tiny town stated “Province of Malaga”. Sheer cliffs, steep amazing rocky mountains - we’re now descending steeply to the coast. The road clings to the mountain and is quite narrow and had fallen away in a few places. Looking down at valleys and ahead to mountains, with villages in the valley and scattered up higher on the mountains, surrounded by olive trees. Arrived at Torremolinos on the Costa del Sol and drove the road horizontal to the seafront path to all the shops (Burger King, souvenirs and English breakfasts). Sent text to Malcolm and Bill but they were already in Portugal. The mountains in the distance bordering Torremolinos look lovely and the beach is also nice but the sand is greyish brown. The rest is touristic ugly development. The old part of town is apparently not without charm but we parked up in front of new villas opposite the beach. Two Spanish motorhomes arrived and we tried to converse with great difficulty but worked out that we were all staying the night and that they had a relative living in Sydney. John went for a walk to top up his UK mobile (which has been impossible so far) and I cooked a stew. Gabriel sent us a text. Stayed at Torremolinos opposite the beach.
Sat 12 January 2008 Left for Marbella Caravan Park recommended to us by Kris and Julie as it has wifi (blog and emails) and we needed to do our washing. Followed the coast road and not the toll way which is inland and they are usually not scenic. Drove through Fuengirola, then through Toranueva. Arrived at Camping Marbella Playa and stayed the night.
Sunday 13 January 2008 I did a lot of washing by hand. Met Jim Bell parked in front of us (whom we hung out with for the rest of the stay. A retired Scottish man who lives with his wife Judy and their 2 poodles Sammy and Lenny on the Isle of Man.) All went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and when we went to pay Jim had already paid for us all. Very kind of him. Lovely evening. Fun late night chatting. Stayed Marbella again.
Monday 14 January 2008 Got a password for the internet today. Cooked a bbq with Jim and had another late fun night chatting. John and I watched Romulus my Father (very sad movie). Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Tuesday 15 January 2008 I cooked stir-fry for Jim and John. Late night chatting and drinking together. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Wednesday 16 January 2008 John put our campervan on the Loot website for a fee. Jim, John and I all went out to a Danish café for dinner and had garlic prawns and hamburgers. Came back to our camper for drinks and late night chatting. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Thursday 17 January 2008 John and I vacuumed and washed our motorhome for the first time today. We went for a walk along the beach. I made lamb cutlets and roast veg for Jim, John and I. The English couple from Norwich (Carol and Murray) arrived and we had drinks and chatted to them all night in Jim’s palatial huge motorhome with pop out sides. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Friday 18 January 2008 Carol and Murray came by to chat to Jim, John and I in the afternoon sun. Linda did the blog… boring… Someone sent a text re our loot advertisement for our motorhome. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Saturday 19 January 2008 Walk along the beach. Relaxed and watched movies.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Hello from Alhama de Granada
Hola everyone.
Linda is still typing up the next exciting installment. we are in Alhama de Granada which is west of Granada. We have been soaking in some thermal pools just out of town with the locals and a few tourists. Everyone heads down there to have a bath. This village doesnt make it into Lonely Planet but is definitely a highlight for us. Its a medieval town built on a cliff with many of the houses falling down. The thermal pools were discovered by the romans and there is a flash hotel there now which is only open in spring and summer. The water flows from the hotel into the river in a series of pools. Apparantly the hotel tried to empty the water straight into the river and not into the baths so the locals couldnt use it (they were an eyesore to their rich clients!) but the locals got pissed off and they had to leave it running into the baths.
We have worked out that the libraries here have free internet so i am waiting for linda to do her emailing.
We will head to Torreleminos (on the coast near Malaga) tommorow and hopefully catch up with Bill and Malcolm who we travelled a few days with and had new years with at Nerja. Then to Marbella for a few days then Ronda (which is inland). We will also check out Gibraltor (and get some tax free grog) and check out Morrocco for a few days. We pick up Jacki (our friend from Goulburn) in Seville on 2 Feb and leave her at Lisbon on 15 Feb before heading north to Paris then London.
Linda will post her next exciting update in a few days. Highlights will be xmass at Benidorm -jewell of the costa blanca (sarcasm) NYE at Nerja with Bill & Malcolm, Almeria where the camper nearly became a permanent fixture, Granada with Kris and Julie (Canadians we met in Germany) and Alhama de Granada (where we are now).
The development in Spain is unbelievable. Many of the roads are brand new and they confuse Jane (TOMTOM). Even the smallest village on the coast has half a dozen huge cranes towering over them building apartments. Real estate sales are slowing here like everywhere else and I am sure there will be tens of thousands of unfinished apartments that no one wants.
I had a very traumatic experience in Almeria when I made a wrong turn and was committed to driving on through ever narrowing streets. I had to take a very tight right hand corner and luckily had about 2mm clearance and a well placed gutter that slid the back wheels around without a building crashing through our kitchen window. A few spanish men helped get us out with the best help being an old man telling linda to be quiet as she was giving contradictory directions and freaking out. All the locals were leaning over their balconies watching the fun. I nearly kissed the guys that helped us - I was so relieved to get out. I dont think I would have made it if the van was 5mm longer or higher (the roof box had a few mm to spare under the first floor balconies). (Dont worry Nik the van came through without a scratch).
Anyway the library is closing (8.30pm here). I hope everyone had a good holiday.
Regards, Adios
John
Linda is still typing up the next exciting installment. we are in Alhama de Granada which is west of Granada. We have been soaking in some thermal pools just out of town with the locals and a few tourists. Everyone heads down there to have a bath. This village doesnt make it into Lonely Planet but is definitely a highlight for us. Its a medieval town built on a cliff with many of the houses falling down. The thermal pools were discovered by the romans and there is a flash hotel there now which is only open in spring and summer. The water flows from the hotel into the river in a series of pools. Apparantly the hotel tried to empty the water straight into the river and not into the baths so the locals couldnt use it (they were an eyesore to their rich clients!) but the locals got pissed off and they had to leave it running into the baths.
We have worked out that the libraries here have free internet so i am waiting for linda to do her emailing.
We will head to Torreleminos (on the coast near Malaga) tommorow and hopefully catch up with Bill and Malcolm who we travelled a few days with and had new years with at Nerja. Then to Marbella for a few days then Ronda (which is inland). We will also check out Gibraltor (and get some tax free grog) and check out Morrocco for a few days. We pick up Jacki (our friend from Goulburn) in Seville on 2 Feb and leave her at Lisbon on 15 Feb before heading north to Paris then London.
Linda will post her next exciting update in a few days. Highlights will be xmass at Benidorm -jewell of the costa blanca (sarcasm) NYE at Nerja with Bill & Malcolm, Almeria where the camper nearly became a permanent fixture, Granada with Kris and Julie (Canadians we met in Germany) and Alhama de Granada (where we are now).
The development in Spain is unbelievable. Many of the roads are brand new and they confuse Jane (TOMTOM). Even the smallest village on the coast has half a dozen huge cranes towering over them building apartments. Real estate sales are slowing here like everywhere else and I am sure there will be tens of thousands of unfinished apartments that no one wants.
I had a very traumatic experience in Almeria when I made a wrong turn and was committed to driving on through ever narrowing streets. I had to take a very tight right hand corner and luckily had about 2mm clearance and a well placed gutter that slid the back wheels around without a building crashing through our kitchen window. A few spanish men helped get us out with the best help being an old man telling linda to be quiet as she was giving contradictory directions and freaking out. All the locals were leaning over their balconies watching the fun. I nearly kissed the guys that helped us - I was so relieved to get out. I dont think I would have made it if the van was 5mm longer or higher (the roof box had a few mm to spare under the first floor balconies). (Dont worry Nik the van came through without a scratch).
Anyway the library is closing (8.30pm here). I hope everyone had a good holiday.
Regards, Adios
John
Saturday, December 22, 2007
CAMPERVAN FOR SALE
Unfortunately we have to come home next year so we need to start advertising the van. If anyone knows someone wanting to see europe for over 6 months then campervaning is the way to go.
VW T4, 2.4 Diesel Motor Home, 1994 EuroMobil 580 Sun
₤9,000 negotiable
109,000 Miles (175,000km), Left Hand Drive, 4 Berth Including Large Above Cab Double Bed with Access Ladder, Lighting & Privacy Curtain, 4 Place Dining with 2 Forward Facing Seat Belts – Converts to Another Double Bed. Bathroom in Back Corner of Motorhome - with h/c Shower and Sink, Flushing Toilet (Cassette), and Large Mirrored Vanity Unit. Lots of Storage Throughout - Quality Made Overhead Lockers/Cupboards and Under Seat Storage. Good Lighting Throughout. Kitchen with 3 Burner Stove/Hob with Exhaust Fan/Rangehood, Electrolux 3 way (12V/240V/Gas) Fridge with Freezer Compartment, Sink with Hot/Cold Water, and Good Bench Space. Truma Gas Heater & Hot Water System. Privacy Black Out Blinds and Fly Screens and Double Curtains on all the Windows. Good Fuel Efficiency and Good Mechanical Condition - 7,000 kms Without Missing a Beat. A Spacious but Cosy Motorhome measuring 5.85 metres.
Sold With 12 months MOT & Full Service History
Just completing a 10 month European tour (in Spain Returning Soon) and are reluctantly returning home to Australia
Extras:
►Large Wind Out Awning
►All Windows Double Glazed, and Insulated all Round (Very Warm Motorhome)
►2 CD/Radio players – one for driving - runs off car battery, one in the back for motorhome – runs off leisure battery or electricity
►Passenger Swivel Seat, and Both Front Seats Very Comfortable with Adjustable Armrests
►100lt/20gal Fresh Water Tank, and Underneath Waste Water Tanks, and Water Hose
► External Locker for 2 10kg Gas Bottles, 6kg UK Gas Bottle, and French Connections
►Rear Ladder and Roof Bars
►Bike Rack
►Top Box
►Good Tyres (1 Spare) - including 2 Brand New Rear Tyres
►Brand New Exhaust
►Safe, and Fiama External Rear Door Lock, and Front Door Strap (Very Secure)
►Tow Bar
►Outside table and chairs
►Levelling ramps
►Full Emergency Kit including Triangle, Vests etc. as Required in Europe, and First Aid Kit
►Mains 240v hook up with built in battery charger, and European and UK Electric Hook up Cables
►Guidebooks (Free/Cheap Campsites Guides to Europe & TOM TOM Camping Sites Data - highly recommended you get yourself a Tom Tom)
►BBQ
►No Smoking or Pets in the Motorhome
►Cutlery, Plates, Cups, Coffee Pot and Cooking implements
►Spare European Headlights
Lots and Lots of Extras – Too Much to List – Runs and Drives Great and is Ready to Go Round Europe. Contains Everything You Need for Wild Camping.
See Photos, and Inspections Welcome - Feel Free to Come and Have a Look/Test Drive
This Vehicle is Advertised Elsewhere and We Reserve the Right to Remove From Sale
Any questions/further information feel free to call John or Linda on 07766277478 or email linda.kable@gmail.com
VW T4, 2.4 Diesel Motor Home, 1994 EuroMobil 580 Sun
₤9,000 negotiable
109,000 Miles (175,000km), Left Hand Drive, 4 Berth Including Large Above Cab Double Bed with Access Ladder, Lighting & Privacy Curtain, 4 Place Dining with 2 Forward Facing Seat Belts – Converts to Another Double Bed. Bathroom in Back Corner of Motorhome - with h/c Shower and Sink, Flushing Toilet (Cassette), and Large Mirrored Vanity Unit. Lots of Storage Throughout - Quality Made Overhead Lockers/Cupboards and Under Seat Storage. Good Lighting Throughout. Kitchen with 3 Burner Stove/Hob with Exhaust Fan/Rangehood, Electrolux 3 way (12V/240V/Gas) Fridge with Freezer Compartment, Sink with Hot/Cold Water, and Good Bench Space. Truma Gas Heater & Hot Water System. Privacy Black Out Blinds and Fly Screens and Double Curtains on all the Windows. Good Fuel Efficiency and Good Mechanical Condition - 7,000 kms Without Missing a Beat. A Spacious but Cosy Motorhome measuring 5.85 metres.
Sold With 12 months MOT & Full Service History
Just completing a 10 month European tour (in Spain Returning Soon) and are reluctantly returning home to Australia
Extras:
►Large Wind Out Awning
►All Windows Double Glazed, and Insulated all Round (Very Warm Motorhome)
►2 CD/Radio players – one for driving - runs off car battery, one in the back for motorhome – runs off leisure battery or electricity
►Passenger Swivel Seat, and Both Front Seats Very Comfortable with Adjustable Armrests
►100lt/20gal Fresh Water Tank, and Underneath Waste Water Tanks, and Water Hose
► External Locker for 2 10kg Gas Bottles, 6kg UK Gas Bottle, and French Connections
►Rear Ladder and Roof Bars
►Bike Rack
►Top Box
►Good Tyres (1 Spare) - including 2 Brand New Rear Tyres
►Brand New Exhaust
►Safe, and Fiama External Rear Door Lock, and Front Door Strap (Very Secure)
►Tow Bar
►Outside table and chairs
►Levelling ramps
►Full Emergency Kit including Triangle, Vests etc. as Required in Europe, and First Aid Kit
►Mains 240v hook up with built in battery charger, and European and UK Electric Hook up Cables
►Guidebooks (Free/Cheap Campsites Guides to Europe & TOM TOM Camping Sites Data - highly recommended you get yourself a Tom Tom)
►BBQ
►No Smoking or Pets in the Motorhome
►Cutlery, Plates, Cups, Coffee Pot and Cooking implements
►Spare European Headlights
Lots and Lots of Extras – Too Much to List – Runs and Drives Great and is Ready to Go Round Europe. Contains Everything You Need for Wild Camping.
See Photos, and Inspections Welcome - Feel Free to Come and Have a Look/Test Drive
This Vehicle is Advertised Elsewhere and We Reserve the Right to Remove From Sale
Any questions/further information feel free to call John or Linda on 07766277478 or email linda.kable@gmail.com
Friday, December 21, 2007
This is where we are staying over xmas
http://www.camperparkcostablanca.com
the site has some good info re whats around here!
the site has some good info re whats around here!
South of France to the Costa Blanca
27 November 2007 … along the Italian Riviera through Albenga, Noli, Finale Ligure, and arrived at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare, 85 kms from the French border (enroute to South of France and then onto South of Spain for the winter). Stayed the night at Saint Bartolomeo al Mare.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
28 November 2007 Packed bed up as sleeping on double bed on dining table for a change from the cab above the driver/passenger seats (2 double beds in camper). John went for a bike ride (gratuit hire, meaning included in price for the night – pretty cool as first time we’ve encountered this, and John had wanted to buy 2 bikes for our trip – we have a bike rack on the back of the camper. Alas, tight wad didn’t want the extra hassle of selling bikes, on top of the camper, and two kayaks, and all the other things Johnbo NEEDS……… just quietly he wants a paraglider now and all the associated gear – this is after the yacht of course! along beach path to Diano Marina and around town to check things out. We both then went for a bike ride along beach path and town – very nice. Went to internet café to email Alex for his birthday tomorrow, Charles, Judy, Gabriel, and Bob. Stayed at St. Bartolomeo al Mare another night.
29 November 2007 Left St. Bart. at 12.30pm after John did all the washing. Drove through Diano Marina, Imperia, and Piani, arriving at San Remo – this stretch of Italian coast very beautiful (as opposed to the eastern coast) and this is a good time of year to be here (July-August swarming with tourists, everything doubles in price, and is fully booked out). San Remo is 50 kms from the French border, and set on a broad sweeping bay between twin headlands. San Remo was the grande-dame of Riviera resorts sixty years or so up to the outbreak of WWII, when wealthy Europeans paraded on the Corso Imperatrice (Tchaikovsky wrote his fourth symphony here in 1878). Spotted a motor home with GB number plates (all been I for Italian in the places we’ve stayed in Italy, and a few D - German, F - France, NL Netherlands, rarely E – Spain; they’ve all headed to Spain for the winter). Parked next door and introduced ourselves to Ron and Marilyn, lovely couple semi-retired and who motor home Europe every English winter. Late night drinking and chatting in our van. Gabriel sent me a text which is always nice – thanks Gab! Stayed at San Remo.
30 November 2007 Ron, Marilyn, John and I all went for a walk starting with the Corso Imperatrice boulevard (palm lined seafront) – very beautiful. Checked out the Russian Orthodox Church with its onion domes, whilst John appeared from the tourist office with maps in hand (as per usual which is helpful). Walked past the landmark casino (more like a palace) with grand staircases and distinctive turrets – still standing as the epitome of the town’s old-fashioned sense of monied leisure. Continued along the harbour-side promenade, walked through the food markets, steep walk up through the beautiful atmospheric old quarter of town made up of arched passageways and alleys. Fantastic view from the top, of the town, marina, and surrounding coastline. Late night in Ron and Marilyn’s very flash motor home, much alcohol and frivolity. Stayed at San Remo another night.
1 December 2007 Went for a walk overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and coast with Ron, Marilyn, David, and Malice. Arrived at a nearby Marina Di Cosa for coffee. Many yachts out sailing as was a lovely warm blue sky day. All walked back through a fairground and had pig on the spit. Late night in David and Malice’s palatial camper, with interesting story swapping of our travels (where lovely to visit, where to avoid, etc politics and the like. Stayed at San Remo another night.
2 December 2007 Said our goodbyes, swapped contact details and departed at 10.45am. Drove windy coast road on the Cote d’Azur– very scenic overlooking the Mediterranean - and crossed the now abandoned border control post into France.
We spent 7 weeks and 4 days in Italy and really feel we saw a lot and don’t need to return. France has been both of our favourite country so far overall.
Drove past Menton (beautiful coastline) and John finally reluctantly turned around on passing Monaco, as I had always wanted to visit. Very steep road into Monaco and being so small (1.9 sq kms) expensive to park – caravans are banned in Monaco and of course there is no caravan park! Monaco is its own country (tiny independent principality) with the oldest monarchy, since the 13th century with the ruling Grimaldis. Monaco would once again become part of France if the royal line were to die out. The citizens and non-French residents pay no income tax; taxation was abolished in 1870, hence it’s now a tax haven for 1000s and little wonder its residents have the highest per capita income in the world. Monaco has more police per square metre than any other country in the world! Walked behind the heliport along the sea and around the port - monstrosities abound eg humungous stink boats aka cruise liners…etc. Walked around the marina, saw the casino at Monte Carlo, visited the neo-Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier III were married and are now buried, along with other monarchs. Walked through the new town, then steep climb to Palais Princier (13th cent) – the palace, on a high rocky promontory in the oldest part of Monaco. Surrounded by old canons and pyramids of canon balls. Watched the changing of the guards. Wandered very well placed and impeccably neat paths through a well manicured garden complete with sculptures, and along cliff tops overlooking the Mediterranean. Past the aquarium, to Port Hercule – past even more humungous stink boats, lots of Ferraris, Porsches, jaguars and lotus’. Johnny in the end was glad he visited – not least to see the huge yachts. Departed and drove very windy, steep, narrow road – very scenic views of Mediterranean Sea - through the Cote d’Azure – beautiful view overlooking St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat on the French Riviera, a peninsula boasting some of the most sumptuous villas on the Riviera (home to Somerset Maugham from 1926 until his death – entertained Winston Churchill to the Duke of Windsor here), saw Eze, balancing on a rocky pinnacle high above the Mediterranean. Continued through Nice, Antibes and Cannes. Then ventured inland on very windy steep narrow road with scenic views, arrived at Grasse, in the dark and cold – didn’t like our spot so kept driving - much colder up in the mountains than where we were on the coast at San Remo. Climbed to 1200m and reached Caille where we stayed next to a paddock of cows and only one other motor home – freezing outside!!! We are driving the Gorges du Verdon – the biggest canyon in Europe (the French Grand Canyon) tomorrow as Johnny is very keen to see it - loves the mountains. Stayed at Caille.
3 December 2007 Left Caille on very windy steep road in overcast weather (we are in the mountains) through deserted heath and hills – amazing country. Started to spit. Reached Balcons de La Mescla – truly amazing beautiful view looking down 250m to the base of the V-shaped (2 huge very deep gorges), 21 km long gorge incised by the River Verdon, through limestone – water an amazing turquoise blue colour. Road through here full of hidden bends and hairpins and would be even more perilous in tourist season July – Aug (summer). Lunch at Aiguines – very beautiful view of chateau, and lake way below. Cold and windy night – stayed at uninspiring Draguignan.
4 December 2007 Beautiful day – John went to laundry mat and I read my book! Left at 1pm for St-Tropez on the Cote d’Azur. Pay parking along port right on water, walked along the marina looking at yachts and cruisers. Snow capped Alps in the distance over the water. The guide books all warn about coming her in high summer unless by yacht with limitless credit – so lucky for us! Strolled to the Vieux Port with the old town rising above – to get the classic St-Tropez experience! Saw what’s left of Chateau Suffren orig blt in 980, and the pretty cobbles streets around. Walked down to the rocky baie de la Glaye and a tiny beach, then up to the sixteenth-century citadel (fort) above the town and around the ramparts, which has beautiful views of St-Tropez, the surrounding coastline and the Mediterranean. (Signac, Matisse and others painted here and by the 1930s other artists arrived (writers), Cocteau, Anais Nin, and in 1956 Roger Vadim filmed Brigitte Bardot in And God Created Women and BB settled here.) Drove to Plage de Pampelonne about 5kms from St-Tropez (famous bronzing belt of St-Tropez) but unfortunately no nudies this time of year! Walked along beach and stayed right on the beach.
5 December 2007 The drive today to Lavandou had the most beautiful views of the coast line and islands (trees as opposed to cleared). Walked into town along a precarious footpath cut into the rocks along the coastline. Walked around the marina looking at yachts – Hugh – we do see a lot of Benateau’s! Saw 4 other motor homes on Saint-Claire Beach, Lavandou, (sign stating “No Camping Cars March – October) so parked alongside them for the night. Very lovely spot, lovely town and beach and views of islands, watched the sunset.
6 December 2007 Departed along coast after coffees and a final stroll on Lavandou Beach. Under Toulon through tunnel on motorway. Free water at Six Fours Les Plages tourist office opposite the beach so filled up (we have 100 litre water tank and 3 20 litre jerry cans). Stayed at the camping aires next to a boules game area (you see this game played a lot in France).
7 December 2007 Drove under Marseille through toll tunnel. Stayed at very windy Port of Carro right on water – lots of wind surfers (very keen as it’s cold).
8 December 2007 Still windy, headed towards Martigues to get to the Pont du Gard to see the famous Roman Bridge. Followed signs to Arles (Van Gogh arrived in 1888 and painted the sunflowers here) over the Rhone, Nimes, to Beaucaire where John bought bog, fanbelt, sandpaper etc to do a minor repair, past sign to Avignon, thru Comps to check out the free aires right on the river (15 kms from Pont du Gard), but continued to Remoulins with an aires 1 km from the bridge, drove on and stayed opposite hotel at Remoulins.
9 December 2007 Walked 1 km to the Pont du Gard – what an awesome sight! The biggest bridge the Romans ever built in the middle of the first century to supply fresh water to the city – the greatest surviving 50km long stretch of aqueduct. With just a 17 metre difference in altitude between start and finish, this is an amazing engineering accomplishment. The impressionable Rousseau wished he’d been born Roman upon first sighting it! Three tiers of arches span the River Gard with the covered water conduit on the top. Walked over and around the bridge through tracks (checked out the Romans graffiti carved into the bridge) – lovely countryside and river. Drove 70 kms following signs to Arles, Nimes and then to Camargue (the Rhone Delta) – wetlands, pastures, dunes and salt flats – very flat country – home to the white horses and pink flamingos – they are very beautiful in such desolate country. Arrived at Les-Saints-Maries-de-la-Mer. Walked along coast, into wetlands, along marshes, quite cold and windy. Walked along beach on Promenade Charles de Gaulle to the little town. Walked up spiral stairs in the church tower of the fortified church of Stes-Maries (legends abound, pilgrimages continue..) to the roof for the best views of the Camargue, coast and town (very windy – known for it in Winter). Stayed right on waterfront at Les-Sts-Maries-de-la-Mer.
10 December 2007 Council worker came to collect money from all the motor homers this morning (thought we’d been let off as off season). Saw an amazing flock of pink flamingos. Drove over the Petite Rhone through flat, marshy country of Camargue through Palavas, Sete (a port) in which we glimpsed arched bridges over canals up main pedestrian street. Onwards in windy weather to Agde (used internet at McDonalds), then followed “Canal du Midi” towards Carcassonne, through Beziers (capital of the Languedoc. In 1209 several thousand Cathars were massacred here on orders from the Catholic pope during the inquisition – this heralded the start of over a century of ruthless killing and torture of so called heretics (Cathars considered the material world completely evil and were critical of corruption in the established church. To be truly pure they had to renounce the world, be non-violent, vegetarian and sexually abstinent). Arrived at La Redorte on the Canal du Midi late so stayed the night (gratuit aires de service, no others, canal low, ducks, cold, trees lining canal very lovely – lost leaves – John thought be better anytime but winter).
11 December 2007 John did washing and bogged up back bumper bar whilst I cleaned up van. Went for a walk and a local dog tagged along with us along the Canal du Midi – walking (or cycling or drifting) along this tree shaded canal is an atmospheric way of savouring France’s southwest. It runs for 240kms from the River Garonne at Toulouse via Carcassonne to the Mediterranean at Agde. It was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet (minor noble and tax collector) who convinced Louis XIV of the merits of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean via the Garonne. Work begun in 1667 using tens of thousands of workers and Riquet spent the whole of his fortune on it and sadly died 6 mths before its inauguration in 1681. It was a success and traffic increased steadily until 1857, when the Sete-Bordeaux railway was inaugurated, reducing trade on the canal to nothing. Still.. it’s a marvel of engineering and beauty including 99 locks and 130 bridges. Very cold wind but continued walking into tiny old town of La Redorte. South of Spain/Portugal = sun, here we come!! Chateau deteriorating behind huge old locked up gate. Bought diesel, and 2 10kg gas bottles to last us 12 weeks in Spain and Portugal before we return to France again (English couple who’d lived in town for 16 yrs translated for us). Left La Redorte through Trebes to Carcassonne. Walked around amazing medieval cite, over bridge to new part of town where Christmas lights abound and the fountain had been frozen in the square amongst the market stalls. Very cold. Chatted to an English couple parked near us and swapped tips – they work in Italy for the Summer. For info: 99% of the people mentioned in this blog that we meet motor homing around Europe are retired couples, around 58 to 68 years of age (Aka The Grey Nomads) whose kids left home years ago, and at least 50% have a least 1 dog and occasionally cats, birds, rats travelling with them. Their palatial HUGE new motor homes are like their second home and when England/Germany/Holland, and some from France and Italy, are in Winter they zoom off for warmer climates. Very rarely do we meet younger couples doing this (they are all working, paying off mortgages, some with kids) – but there are an enlightened few along the way that are always very interesting. Last night 30 yo Mark from Belgium was in his 1971 van cruising Europe skiing, skating and partying after finishing his studies. A young South African couple were motor homing Europe now as they wanted to have children on return. Stewart and Collett are keen motor homers from England and were our age. Stayed in Carcassonne with an amazing fortified medieval cite view of the old town.
12 December 2007 Very cold last night but the view of the medieval cite of Carcassonne crowning the hill over the River Aude, and being only 5 minutes walk to the drawbridge into the medieval cite (now a UNESCO world heritage site – very imposing dramatic site - think fairy-tale medieval town) made it all worthwhile. Built over ruins of a former Roman fortress, with 2 fortified and turreted castle walls surrounding it, comprising 52 towers and a drawbridge entrance. Making 3kms of battlements and an impregnable stronghold. All bearing 2600 years of history with Gauls, Romans, Visigoths, Saracens and Franks leaving their mark. The cite was the theatre of the crusades against the heretics (the Cathars) in the 13th century eg much torture and bloodshed – 2 museums showed instruments de torture used during the inquisition against heresy (intolerance of free thought) – John just said “if George Bush had been around in the 13th century he could have been pope!” Strolled the atmospheric cobbled narrow lanes, many Roman wells, looked at the 12th century castle and ramparts, and the beautiful old Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus (combination of Romanesque and Gothic with beautiful stained glass) – tombs, bishop stuff, and interestingly an iron ring used to attach horses (inside the church) during the French Revolution. Walked the pedestrian bridge over to the left bank of the River Aude to the bastide. Commissioned by St Louis in 1260 and lying between town walls also. Much fascinating history in Carcassonne (as everywhere in Europe). Departed on very windy road through Limoux where we had lunch – very picturesque mountain views on either side. John pointed out Alet-Les-Bains standing beside a ruined cathedral. Then through Rennes Les Bains, then a tiny place with magnificent views up in the mountains with walks you could do, but I can’t find it on the maps – something like Les Bains Chateau? Then through Bugarach – a beautiful picturesque tiny village in the valley of the mountains which John liked. Climbed higher on steep narrow windy road, could see snow on top of the mountains, to Duilhac surrounded by the Pyrenees (very near the border of Spain now). Stayed the night in Duilhac – no other motorhomes.
13 December 2007 Very cold last night (we are never cold at night in our motorhome, do have gas heating – not used to-date). Followed pretty steep walking track approximately 45 minutes to the Castle of Peyrepertuse (800m). Could see the neighbouring Chateau of Queribus from the top and another. The Castle of Peyrepertuse was occupied since Roman times from the start of the first century bc. Amazing sight from a distance and actually walking around the various stone rooms of it. It was first mentioned in 1070 during the era when the Catalan Counts of Besalu owned it. Later it came under the district of the Counts of Barcelona in 1111, and became part of the noble domain of the Viscount of Narbonne. During the crusades, Guillaume de Peyrepertuse refused to submit, and was excommunicated in 1224. His siege against Carcassonne failed, and he gave in, and the chateau became a French possession in Nov 1240. In 1242 Saint Louis ordered the construction of the steps which we walked up. Amazing views from the top. Much more interesting history from here on to the start of the French Revolution, whereby it was deserted by fleeing nobles, as were many castles, and in 1820 it was sold to the state (like many castles). We walked back down the steep track to our motorhome. Collected water flowing from the rock face into the village fountain in which Ronsard wrote “he who will drink, in love will he fall”.
Drove to gorgeous picturesque coastal small fishing port Collioure (still in France). Had a walk around this quaint pretty town by the sea. Went to a funky pub (astronomically expensive) and John had a couple of beers, me capaccino, and we played chess. Linda got whipped!!! Stayed at a place recommended to us in Collioure.
14 December 2007 Walk around beautiful Collioure. The colours attracted Matisse here in 1905. The imposing Chateau Royal dominates the harbour, with its 3 sheltered beaches. It was first built by the Knights Templer in the 13th century. Bought a baguette (as you always do in France) and a postcard for Charles. This is a very pretty place – John and I think it is nicer than most places on the extremely wealthy French Riviera – including Monaco. Two dogs joined us on our walk past Matisse prints, and empty picture frames as viewing points, all around the small port. Looked inside yet another old church before heading off. Snow capped mountains in the distance all around us on our drive towards Perpignan 26kms away, but warm day with beautiful clear blue skies and coastal views! Don’t get this in Australia! French 5kg gas bottle returned (every European country uses different gas bottles and regulators, and it’s a pain that they are not all standardised across the EU – so we stock up in France – just bought 20 kgs for Spain and Portugal. John wanted to fit an LPG service station fitting to the camping car so we could fill up at service stations. This way the gas is half what we pay buying bottles. But for 500 pounds (A$1250) for 10 months use motorhoming we decided it wasn’t worth the expense) - lunch at Argeles. Then the road got very windy and hugged cliffs through Cerbere. Very high up and looking at mountains and sea – amazing views; 5 minutes later we drove through old abandoned border post into ESPANA – SPAIN! Drove around Portbou down to the marina as it was the first town into Spain. Continued another 5 kms and found a line of German motorhomers (in a motortouring club) along the beach. Parked at the end of the line and stayed the night just north of Llanca.
NB We have been told never to free camp in Spain - especially near Barcelona – always hear horror stories from motorhomers re the Romanian and Polish gypsies waving people over as if they are broken down, pointing to your motorhome as you drive so you pull over, gasing people who awake when they have been robbed…
15 December 2007 Woke up on the little pretty beach. Germans leaving so we headed for Cadaques which I have always wanted to visit. Through dry, rugged, rocky, mountainous, terraced country on very narrow winding steep precarious road (John said to add an acronym here so DRRMTCVNWSPR would be it!) Spotted Cadaques (tiny port) way below – white houses hugging rocky port (all this in Cap de Creus). Cooked b’fast at the end of a road looking at the ocean over rocky cliff. Walked down to Lligat, a short way, to Salvador Dali’s house – imposing 2 head sculpture on roof and a giant egg. Very pretty bay; very cold. My late brother Marcus loved Salvador Dali’s stuff. Drove tollway thru Barcelona – and the caravan parks we found were all shut (seasonal like Italy). Continued to Port Rodade Bara about 71kms south of Barcelona and stayed overlooking the ocean.
16 December 2007 Drove through Tarragona – and through a Roman arch - many Roman ruins here. Arrived at Peniscola (yes, this is the correct spelling) and stayed at a sosta camper place. Spent the evening next door in a nice German couples motorhome – and despite the huge language barrier - in which Rudy got out his laptop complete with language translator program (he types in German and it translates into English and vice versa – its really crap – we used it with Natalie and Chris our French friends) he and John seemed to be able to communicate with maps, pointers, beers and the strong stuff Rudy brought out! Stayed at Peniscola.
17 December 2007 Went for a long walk all along the coastal palm lined Paseo Maritimo Promenade towards Peniscola’s 14th century castle – a very imposing sight - perched on a rocky cliff jutting into the sea. It was built by the Knights Templar on Arab foundations, and later became home to Pedro de Luna, the deposed (does anyone know what he did?) pope Benedict XIII. It started to rain…. we got drenched but walked along the fortified walls of the old town, around the old castle, to the light house on the high point, past a church and along the old narrow cobbled streets of whitewashed houses and down to the port. All very pretty but just as commercial (souvenir shops abound). All in stark contrast to the modern highrises along the Promenade and northwards along the coast (Charmless and leaden). The beach extends all the way to Benicarlo 5kms north. Walked down to the port/marina and watched many fishing boats all coming in with their catch. Watched a couple of fishermen on board sort out their catch into crates. Walked home along promenade – getting dark and we were both pretty wet except under our rain jackets. John asked if I wanted to catch the bus home and I said no as he didn’t tell me he was cold and uncomfortable. Well, a huge tantrum ensued half way home!!! I am not saying I don’t have them! Arrived home in the dark to deep puddles around our motorhome, and changed into dry clothes. John made a fantastic prawn stirfry and was ok when dry with a hot cup of tea. Watched Black Adder dvds (not my taste but John loves it) and it rained all night. Stayed at Peniscola.
18 December 2007 I typed blog whilst we have electricity here (we recharge camera, mobile phone, laptop, and John’s shaver from an adapter plugged into our leisure battery whilst driving though – because we don’t always have electricity – leisure battery in the back of the motorhome for lights, waterpump, fridge, heater, fan, & rear cd player). Very grey and started pouring again, so emptied waste water and continued – 300 km to Alfas del Pi, near Benidorm– got on the N340 which goes all the way down the coast to Valencia – 130kms away. A lot of the towns are like the eastern coast of Italy – dirt and crumbling – we are travelling along the Costa del Azahar (the orange blossom coast) – orange trees everywhere. Past Benicassim (think Gold Coast concrete tower high rise hotels for next 6 kms along coast). Scenic imposing mountains on the right of the road though, for miles, which are nice. Benicassim vies with Peniscola as the Costa del Azahars best coastal playground. Took coastal scenic route (valley, mountains and 1000s of orange orchards both sides of road) from Cavara to Benidorm through little towns. Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm at a place recommended to us.
19 December 2007 Emailed Charles who is going to Rome today to spend Chrissy with Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco in Collepepe/Genova. Used the internet in our motorhome – caught up on emails, looked at secondhand campervan websites for ideas on where to place ours and for wording etc and drafted an advertisement for ours: great to have the internet in the motorhome rather than internet cafes for a nice change. I was not looking fwd to being in a dinghy internet café trying to do this – it takes quite some time. Emailed lovely Sharon and David in Brisbane (met them motorhoming France in Sept) and they replied with very helpful advice on selling our motorhome – as per usual. Internet went down – both had showers in new complex – too much luxury in one day!!! The nice helpful owner here came to help us get back into the network. He opened this sosta camper 2 months ago and is giving it 12 months - but it's pretty full considering its off season. Stayed in Alfas del Pi right near Benidorm.
20 December 2007 Linda wants to stay in the one place (here) until 26 December – motorhome touring can get very tiring when you drive/move to a new place like us everyday. We have been living in our motorhome now for over 6.5 months except for 1 week with Charles staying on luxurious 'Tara of London', and 1 night at Collepepe with relatives. We both need a rest and to catch up on things - to advertise our motorhome. John did some food shopping. Internet worked again. Rang Anna on Skype and she didn’t mention it was midnight over there! Stayed at Alfas del Pi near Benidorm again.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Hooray Howards Gone
Sorry this is still a few weeks old - watch out for the next exiting installment including - Monte Carlo, The French Grand Canyon and the Pont du Gard. Currently at Agde and on our way to Carcassone along the canal du midi then Spain by the weekend.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
Gallaghar email me at john.bickmore@gmail.com - back in April.
14 November 2007 Caught tram into centre of Rome. Walked to Vatican (raining and cold) where the long line did move quite quickly - including through security (NB don’t visit July-Aug unless you’re keen on 2+hrs wait!). Walked all through the Vatican Museum including the Sistine Chapel. Saw the Michelangelo’s amongst famous others, but unfortunately missed Raffaello, and Borgia’s apartment. Much Egyptian findings (John thinks they are mostly stolen and should be returned to their rightful owners) including paraphernalia found in pharaohs tombs, and a mummy. Many Greek and Roman statues including a marble Augustus head (founder of Rome) in the centre garden. Lots of amazing sculptures of mainly muscly naked men, but also lots of animals including horses (it has come to my attention that, as in England also, all the horses are stallions – haven’t found one gelding or mare yet!!) Waited in pouring rain in a long line to see Saint Peter’s (John not keen… I wasn’t coming this far not to see the largest church in the world). Then walked through Piazza Navona, Rome’s most famous square, to the Pantheon, then to the Spanish Steps where just to the right whilst looking up at them is the house that John Keats (poet) died in, aged just 25. Saw the famous Trevi fountain. Tram home to our camper about 5-10kms from centre of Rome at sosta camper. Called Anna in Aust. for her 39th birthday.
15 November 2007 Tram into Rome, walked to Australian Embassy to cast our vote. John upset as only had ‘how to vote liberal’ handouts, no Greens or Labor. Of course Alexander Downer is the Minister for Foreign Affairs. Emailed Gab, Anna, and Charles, & sent some postcards – Megan, Brendan and fam, Keith Emery, and Judy and Steve our archaeologist mates in Montignac, France. Walked around a huge park, lunched within, with amazing Roman bust statues everywhere, magnificent view over Piazza Poppola and beyond, which was the start of the main street in Rome. Rain began again and cold – Rome at this time of year very cold at night – Florence colder! Trade-off is that there are less tourists, but this is Rome, so there are still more tourists than Romans in the centre. Looked at Basilica of Saints Ambrose and Charles, which included a chapel “Cappella del Crocifisso” – the chapel of the crucifix, deriving its name from the crucifix above the 16th century wooden alter – from Perugia – where Andrea, Giovanna and Francesco live. Tram home to Rome sosta camper.
16 November 2007 Because of bad weather decided not to go into Rome for another day to see inside the Colloseum and palatine. Had seen them from the outside. Wendy and Robert, South Africans parked next door, jump started us in the cold and pouring rain. Drove and stayed at Orbetello – very cold and windy – a loud crash in the night was a tree blowing over.
17 November 2007 Drove to Sienna but didn’t want to pay 20 euro just to park – Rome was 15 per night with electricity. Drove through beautiful Tuscany countryside on steep winding, mountain roads. Magnificent rolling hills as far as the eye can see, olive trees and vines, and lovely autumn colours of reds and oranges (Italy is a very mountainous country). Very cold night, hence the reason we are slowly heading to south of France onto Spain for the winter. All the English retirees have dried up, so are already there! Stayed at Greve in Chianti.
18 November 2007 Left for Florence about 30 km away. Saw the statue of David and the main piazza near the Uffizzi art gallery, with the most amazing beautiful statues. Walked along the river to the famous medieval bridge which has little shops all along it. Florence is a very picturesque city from almost anywhere you look. Stayed in Florence.
19 November 2007 A lovely surprise - Anna called, alas early!! Walked into centre of Florence and walked up the narrow winding 463 steps of Saint Maria del Fiore to the campanile (dome) (in Piazza Duomo, gothic, one of the world’s largest cathedrals’). Beautiful views over Florence as we watched the sun set, and the lights of the city as the lights came on. Saw the old stone Saint Lorenzo Church in Piazza Saint Lorenzo – paused on steps for a while with a huge gladiator statue in front of us. Saw Michelangelo’s David through the glass at Galleria dell Accademia. Italy getting very cold when that sun goes down – except probably way down south – warmer of course on the coast.
20 November 2007 Up early – VW mechanic shop – had our battery tested and its ½ working. They confirmed that the toothed belt pulley is part of the timing gears – contrary to the warranty company saying it wasn’t covered! Drove to Pisa and stayed the night (many gypsies who live in their caravans and camping cars which don’t seem to move!)
21 November 2007 John went to the laundry mat, and we stayed in Pisa.
22 November 2007 Left 10.30am for VW shop who didn’t have our sized fan belt. Paid for parking for security and walked to and around the Leaning Tower of Pisa (after 11 years and 30 million spent on it, it reopened to the public in 2001). First sighted from the Porta Nuova gate laid out on the Campo del Miracoli - truly an amazing sight no matter what I’d heard about it. Construction began in 1173 and Pisa was laid out in the mid 11th century, with its golden age between 11th and 13th centuries. Baptistry and cathedral (duomo) all within the same square as leaning tower. Baptistry (construction began 1152) composed of 3 stories of Romanesque arcades peaking in a crest of gothic pinnacles and a dome, and is apparently the largest baptistery in Italy. Duomo had bronze doors cast in 1180 (very like the famous ones we saw in Florence) with 3 dimensional figures depicting religious stories. Walked around the atmospheric medieval quarters (very narrow cobbled streets) down to the river – beautiful view from bridge. All very picturesque. I found it interesting that Galileo was a teacher at the University of Pisa, and exploited the overhang of the leaning tower of Pisa in one of his celebrated experiments - dropping items of different mass off the top to demonstrate the constancy of gravity. Left the rolling hills and picturesque Tuscany after some time on motorway (Italian motorways much cheaper than French ones). Raining, mountainous, towns on hills in clouds, yellow leaves or fallen. Passed huge rock, marble, granite blocks and cranes – marble quarries of Carrara. Many tunnels through hills and we hit Levanto and had lunch overlooking the Mediterannean. Stayed in Levanto.
23 November 2007 Caught the 8.30am train from Levanto to Riomaggiore so that we could walk the Cinque Terre (in the Cinque Terre National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site). ‘Cinque’ means 5 – and there are 5 gorgeous old villages to walk through on the trail - narrow, medieval, atmospheric and picturesque tightly packed streets, and, the narrow houses mostly in shades of rose, salmon & terracotta with bottle green shutters perched precariously on cliffs above the Mediterranean, and, ‘terre’ means lands. Spectacular scenery all the way as the trail is cut into the cliff (very narrow) above the Mediteranean (reminded me of a little Amalfi) with hills behind the trail and close to the coast much terraced olives and vines on steep hills). The old fishing villages have been there for over 1000 years – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia (had lunch here as started to rain), Vernazza, Monterosso al Mare – where the official trail ends (10 kms). We decided with approx. 2 hrs of day light to walk another 6-7 kms to Levanto where we were staying. However, it did begin to rain again and got quite dark on a very rocky steep trail so we did get a bit worried. You don’t pay for this bit of the walk and its definitely more rugged and not as well constructed as the first bit – and obviously not as popular eg didn’t see any other hikers. Arrived at Levanto beach in the dark and pouring rain at 5.30pm and it was good to be home for a hot shower. Good walking today. Stayed another night at Levanto.
24 November 2007 On Charles’ recommendation we drove to Genoa (Genova to Italians’) through beautiful, winding, steep (hairpins), picturesque – views of Mediteranean and coastline from above road. Arrived at camping car hire shop and stayed here (on a terrible slope) about 10 kms east of the centre – nice view of the water in the distance.
NB we have now driven 9340kms through Europe, with diesel most expensive in England, and then Italy at 1.27 euros per litre, and we get roughly 9.23 – 9.5 kms per litre - signed Minister for Finance!
25 November 2007 Bus into Genoa central – John says I write too much detail…. So this is the last time!: Columbus grew up here, Italy’s 1860 industrial revolution began in Genoa, it suffered heavy bombing during WWII, the G8 summit was held here in 2001 with an anti-globalisation protestor, 23 year old Carlo Giuliani being shot dead by carabinieri. It’s the only European city to be mentioned in the Arabian Nights. Marco Polo was held captive here; and finally, Oscar Wilde’s wife Constance Lloyd is buried here, she died in 1898 aged only 40.
Walked around Genoa, sprawled behind Italy’s largest port. The port (Porto Antico) captured John’s eyes immediately, as per usual, as he loves yachts and wants one for his next big adventure (especially since meeting American liveaboards (couples) who’d been sailing the world for 10-20 years at the Port of Rome where Charles’ yacht is moored) (Note from Minister for Finance: uh oh – we chose to tour Europe rather than pay off house, so now we have to work for a few years to pay off, and save for “SMALL” yacht). John also liked an ancient war ship with the canon thingos on the side. Heaps of cruise liners docked. John didn’t want to look at Antarctica photo exhibition, so I had a look knowing it was his thing, and then noticed he was looking at EVERYTHING to the end in perfect sequence rivetted to it all ;-)! Walked around the medieval old part of town with its atmospheric caruggi – very pretty (tiny cobbled alleyways, as mentioned by Charles). Saw the Cathedral di San Lorenzo also recommended by Charles. Legend has it it once housed St John the Baptist’s ashes. Had a look at the Palazzo Ducale (home of ruling doge 1384-1515 approx) where G8 was held, and an interesting photographic exhibition inside. Looked at Gesu Church and 2 of Ruben’s paintings which were inside. Looked at a little church, San Pietro in Banchi, and, Palazzo di San Giorgio built 1260 where Marco Polo was held captive (as well as a Pisan writer, Rustichello, who upon hearing his tales wrote ‘the travels of Marco Polo’ on release). Went to see 3 art galleries (on Musei di Strada Nuova (now known as ‘via Garibaldi’ – beautiful renaissance architecture and world heritage UNESCO). All were palaces built in the renaissance style using precious materials – white marble fr. the Apuano Alps etc) The 1st was ‘Palazzo Rosso’ (16th century bldg, spectacular decorative setting) housing the notable painting collection, art and historical furniture of the Brignole-Sale family, and works by the best Genoese painters of the 17th & 18th century. Frescoes by Gregorio De Ferrari and Domenico Piola – Genoese baroque. Italian artists Palma il Vecchio, Veronese, Moretto etc, and foreigners Durer, Van Dyck, Rigaud. The view from the 2 terraces but particularly the roof offered beautiful views over the Strada Nuova and the entire medieval city centre to the port and the Mediteranean. The 2nd was ‘Palazzo Bianco’ said to be Genoa’s finest art gallery and consisting of 40 odd exhibition rooms, originating in the 16th century, and like Rosso, was bequeathed to the city of Genoa by the Brignole-Sale family. Boasting Flemish works of art from the 15 – 18th century – Memling, David, Van Cleve, Rubens, Van Dyck, and, Italian: Caravaggio, Veronese, etc and some Spanish: Zurbaran and Murillo. Genoese artists: Luca Cambiaso to Strozzi, Assereto, Borzone, Fiasella, De Ferrari etc. John didn’t want to go to the galleries – we have seen many over the last few months - and a condition was that I didn’t read anything! He gets very impatient with me in museums and art galleries, as I take hours to look at everything, and I read every caption, and even anally tick things off as I’ve seen them! What a weirdo! John’s style is to rush through, and to me seems more interested in the views out the windows of the town below and the sea, until I see him staring at 6 very large paintings (outdoor nature scenes of different seasons) for what is a long time for John, by JAN WILDENS. I agree they were most beautiful. The 3rd was ‘Palazzo Tursi’ once belonging to the Doria Duke of Tursi, now connected to Palazzo Bianco, the most spectacular private residence erected inside the walls of the town in the 16th century. Containing 17th century tapestries made with gold and silver thread (saw some with the same thread in England (Henry VIII’s and also in France), antique furniture, Genoese and Ligurian ceramics, and official coins of ancient Genoa (John was impressed with these under magnifying glass), including weights and measures. Nicolo Paganini’s relics and violin – the Guarneri del Gesu, which is famous worldwide – I think I am missing something here!! Very long day and we had walked miles and had culture overload. Gab’s text said that Rudd had won the election, he was signing Kyoto this week, and, that Howard had lost his seat to Maxine! Woooahh! Gab – what were you doing up at 4am?? Stayed in Genoa.
26 November 2007 John walked 6 kms to VW shop to get fan belt which they didn’t have for our van. Left Genoa on motorway through probably more tunnels through mountains than daylight. Reached Albisola Marina and John went for a walk and didn’t come home til very late which got me very worried. Shower here terrible and ripped me off in the freezing cold – John lucky I went first so could enjoy a good shower in the camper!! Cooked a lovely Pad Thai for dinner. Stayed Albisola Marina – getting close to border of south of France.
27 November 2007 Left Albisola Marina along coast off motorway.
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