DONT FORGET OUR FREE SKYPE CONTACT - lindajohnandsophie
We now have heaps of phone numbers
Call John and Linda on
02 8006 1371 from Sydney
02 6100 0430 from Canberra
020 8144 7106 from London
Call John at Work on
02 4587 0079 or
0488 498 756 (Mobile)
Or Linda's Mobile on
0413 551 716 (but dont expect her to answer it very often)
Regards
John
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Back in Aus
Hi all (if anyone is still reading)
We got back to Australia about 5 weeks ago and I have been back at work for 4 weeks. We spent a week in Cambodia, primarily in Pnomh Penh with our friend Lia and Co but also flew to Siam Reap and visited the very amazing Angkor Watt (Much better than any European Cathedral). Arriving in Melbourne we collected Sophie who hadn't seemed to have noticed we had gone and stayed with my Cousin Joe and his wife Claire and spent some time with my sister Liz and Kurt. The weather in Melbourne, Canberra and Sydney was amazing after coming from snow in london through the sauna of Cambodia. We drove through Canberra seeing my mother Claire and sister Kate and got back to Sydney with 2 days to spare before work started. We moved back home last weekend after spending a few weeks with Bob who lives nearby.
I have gotten back into the work routine - 6.30 am train and home by 6.30pm but am enjoying it.
We now have a phone
02 8006 1371 (last 4 digits are my bday!)
Its a skype ph and costs $10/month for unlimited worldwide calls (has already paid for itself on day one with a marathon phone call to Anna in Canberra last night).
Anyway - Linda is still settling in to the house and will update this properly soon. Will add some more pics soon as well.
Regards
John
We got back to Australia about 5 weeks ago and I have been back at work for 4 weeks. We spent a week in Cambodia, primarily in Pnomh Penh with our friend Lia and Co but also flew to Siam Reap and visited the very amazing Angkor Watt (Much better than any European Cathedral). Arriving in Melbourne we collected Sophie who hadn't seemed to have noticed we had gone and stayed with my Cousin Joe and his wife Claire and spent some time with my sister Liz and Kurt. The weather in Melbourne, Canberra and Sydney was amazing after coming from snow in london through the sauna of Cambodia. We drove through Canberra seeing my mother Claire and sister Kate and got back to Sydney with 2 days to spare before work started. We moved back home last weekend after spending a few weeks with Bob who lives nearby.
I have gotten back into the work routine - 6.30 am train and home by 6.30pm but am enjoying it.
We now have a phone
02 8006 1371 (last 4 digits are my bday!)
Its a skype ph and costs $10/month for unlimited worldwide calls (has already paid for itself on day one with a marathon phone call to Anna in Canberra last night).
Anyway - Linda is still settling in to the house and will update this properly soon. Will add some more pics soon as well.
Regards
John
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Back in London
Weve done a few k's since the last post and are now back at Charles's place in London. We left Jaki at Lisbon on 15 Feb and collected Nik and Katy for the weekend. Since then we have visited Tomar (Templar Knights hangout), Santiago de Compostella (Our time in Pergatory is officially halved!!), San Sebastion where we met Mike and Allen, Montignac again to see our french friends Natalie, Chris and family. We have also seen Paris and many of its sites and Amsterdam where we visited a coffee shop. Our last days were spent in Belgium where we saw Ieper (Ypres) where many soldiers died in WW1 including 43,000 Australians. The last post at the Menin Gates in Ieper was very moving (they do it every night at 8pm). The Menin Gate is a memorial to the 54,500 Commonwealth troops who died in WW1 before 1917 and have no known grave (Including many Australians, New Zealanders and Canadians).
Seafrance were on strike so we were put on a P&O ferry to recross the channel after a frustrating discussion with the English Customs. We told them we were from Australia and definitely did not want to stay in the UK but they had to see air tickets, van ownership proof etc etc.
Today we took the van to get MOT'd (rego'd) and it passed with flying colors. Next week we will pass the keys to Nik and Katy who will do another lap of Europe.
We leave London on 28 March and will spend a week in Cambodia before landing in Melbourne on the morning of 7 April.
Linda has been writing the blog but will need a full day to type it all up.
Regards
John & Linda
Seafrance were on strike so we were put on a P&O ferry to recross the channel after a frustrating discussion with the English Customs. We told them we were from Australia and definitely did not want to stay in the UK but they had to see air tickets, van ownership proof etc etc.
Today we took the van to get MOT'd (rego'd) and it passed with flying colors. Next week we will pass the keys to Nik and Katy who will do another lap of Europe.
We leave London on 28 March and will spend a week in Cambodia before landing in Melbourne on the morning of 7 April.
Linda has been writing the blog but will need a full day to type it all up.
Regards
John & Linda
Friday, February 8, 2008
Portugal
Weve been in Portugal for 2 days parked at Casto Marim. We have picked up Jacky from Seville about 5 days ago. Linda is still typing up our latest adventures. Had a very big night in Castro Marim 2 nights ago and are only just fully recovered. Weve just been shopping to restock the alcohol cupboard. Hopefully Jacky wont fall asleep next time we visit someones van for a few drinks.
Regards
John
Regards
John
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Morrocco
Hi all
We have popped over to Morrocco for a couple of days and are staying in the hotel Continental in Tangeirs. The van is parked in the streets of Tarifa (Spains most southern point). Its definitely different over here and much cheaper.
Since the last post we have been to Ronda - an amazing town perched on a cliff (see pics of bridge) and Gibraltor where we stocked up on duty free grog and checked out the rock and its monkeys (pics coming soon).
We catch the 35 minute ferry back to Tarifa tommorow. Tarifa is the kite surfing and windsurfing capital of the world. Its more than a bit windy. When the wind isnt blowing very hard from the east (which it is now and was for the 3 days (continuously) we were in Tarifa ) it blows from the west.
Regards
John
We have popped over to Morrocco for a couple of days and are staying in the hotel Continental in Tangeirs. The van is parked in the streets of Tarifa (Spains most southern point). Its definitely different over here and much cheaper.
Since the last post we have been to Ronda - an amazing town perched on a cliff (see pics of bridge) and Gibraltor where we stocked up on duty free grog and checked out the rock and its monkeys (pics coming soon).
We catch the 35 minute ferry back to Tarifa tommorow. Tarifa is the kite surfing and windsurfing capital of the world. Its more than a bit windy. When the wind isnt blowing very hard from the east (which it is now and was for the 3 days (continuously) we were in Tarifa ) it blows from the west.
Regards
John
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Spain
21 December 2007 Emailed our draft advertisement and photos for our motorhome requesting feedback to Colette and Stuart (both our age, who we met in France and are now back home in England (they live next door to Penny Lane mentioned in the Beetles song) and David and Sharon (also met in France, now back home in Brisbane). Skyped Anna, and Christian called with news that he and Georgie had a little girl they named Ruby, and they are all living in the Blue Mountains. Taking the rubbish outside the gates I heard a man singing up the road. We got chatting and his name was Peter Hampson (Pedro in Spanish) a 65 year old English man who had lived in Spain for over 10 years, had just had a car accident and the police had taken his car, and was selling his villa in Alfas del Pi. He invited me to come and see his villa but I took him to meet Johnny at our van and they drank whisky and we had an interesting conversation. We walked 5 minutes to Peter’s villa and he and John had quite a few drinks. Peter was a very interesting character and had lived and worked all over the world. Very late night and we walked back to our van at Alfas del Pi.
22 December 2007 Looked at David and Sharon’s blog again about their trip to Granada in 2000 and Condoba in 2005 for tips. Joe and Claire skyped us and gave us a tour of their lovely apartment, they both look great, and we saw their new cat. John downloaded camping car sights for the tom tom most of the day. We both walked in the pouring rain into Albir to a café run by an English couple and had big English breakfasts and tea/beer. You’ve no idea how good this is when you have been in Italy and France for months where they are impossible to find! Walked back to Alfas del Pi in the pouring rain, relaxed, emailed, and stayed the night again.
23 December 2007 We walked into Albir to the English couple’s café again, and again it was pouring rain. Both had a roast dinner and tea/beer which was very nice. We don’t have a gas oven in the van, only electric, so you need to be hooked up to power to use it. Peter visited us and invited us to his place. John and Peter drank cheap wine/whisky (alcohol and cigarettes are the only things in Spain that are cheaper than Australia!!), chatted and watched English TV, and I did 2 loads of washing (thanks Peter). Poured all day so was nice to be at Peter’s in front of the heater. Walked home to van in Alfas del Pi in pouring rain again.
24 December 2007 After receiving helpful feedback from Stuart/Collette and David/Sharon we placed our advert on Gumtree for our camper. Jaki emailed us her flights – we pick her up on 2 Feb in Seville and drop her in Lisbon Portugal on 15 Feb. We are looking forward to seeing her and travelling together. Hugh skyped us to say Merry Christmas which was a really nice surprise and made my day – thanks Hugh for having all your technology back up and running on time to skype us for Christmas – much appreciated. Spoke to Alex – they are going to Tina’s for Christmas, Jen is in Vietnam for 5 weeks with Scotty over Chrissy. Paid our 72 euros for the last few nights and emptied waste water etc. Met 2 weird hippies who came over to chat to us as they had also been staying at ‘Costa Blanca Motorhome Park’ also. Said goodbye to Willem and Marlene (Danish) who we met at Peniscola and were also staying here. Did some grocery shopping in Albir and drove to Peter’s villa. Our washing was dry on his line and eventually Peter arrived drunk! John made fantastic turkey green curry for Christmas Eve. Watched movies with Peter (Adrift). Stayed at Peter’s in Alfas del Pi.
Tues 25 December 2007 Perfect warm blue sky day approx. 19 degrees. Sat in sun with Peter and John over coffee. Walked into Albir and caught the bus to Benidorm to the Union Jack Pub. Peter had wanted us all to have Christmas together here. It was smoky and very loud and the turkey roast was not that great. The place was packed with English people. John and I went for a walk along the promenade at Benidorm main beach – what a horrible place. Concrete high-rises everywhere – think Gold Coast. John calls it the ‘jewel of the Costa Blanca’! unfortunately the rest of the Spanish coast so far has not been much better. Returned to the Union Jack to pick up Peter who was not there. We bussed back to Peter’s and the lights were on and he was home. All watched movies together and we stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Wed 26 December 2007 I slept in whilst John changed the fan belt. Beautiful blue sky day around 19 degrees. Quiet day, watch movies (vampire movie, Blade, Master & Commander). I cooked dinner for John and Peter whilst the lightening started and it began to pour with rain. Stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Thurs 27 December 2007 Rain had stopped, warm with beautiful blue skies. Sat in the morning sun with Peter and John and said goodbye/thankyou to Peter. This is the sad thing about motorhoming, you become friends with people that you get on so well with, and then have to leave. Also being Australian the chance of seeing them again is remote. This is one thing I don’t like! John took photos of us all for my memories. Departed at 11.45am and filled up, and headed through La Nucia (new and ugly). Imposing rock mountains with amazing sharp skyline in front of us that we could see from Alfas del Pi. Continued through Polop de la Marina towards those beautiful amazing mountains. Arrived at Guadalest (history goes back to at least AD 715) with its stone castle “Castillo de San Jose” perched on a very steep top of a rock cliff with amazing rock spire. Amazing rocky sharp mountains with a sea green dam down in the valley. Strolled around this traffic-free village which has become a tourist trap – kitsch souvenir shops everywhere. However, we visited the ‘museo etnologico’ (free but compulsory donation) which showed a very interesting account of Guadalest peasant life before cheap abundant fossil fuels (the animals: goats, pig, chickens, lived under the house, olives and grapes were crushed for oil and wine). Drove to Santa Pola and inadvertently found many motorhomes parked on the water (sign stating “NO MOTORHOMES”, but they get around it because it also states “TOURIST PARKING”, so we parked where we could hear the waves lapping all night. Saw GB number plates so went over and introduced ourselves to Bill and Malcolm. Stayed free at Santa Pola.
Fri 28 December 2008 Malcolm and Bill came over to say they were going to get water and offered to take John with his 3 20 litre jerry cans to collect some. Warm lovely blue sky day. They were all gone for ages.. so I walked up to the supermarket along the beach to get some groceries. It was very relaxing, quiet and not many people around. Very late night in our van with Bill (55, lives near Bath England) and Malcolm (71, English but lived in Spain for past 20 years). Much beer and whisky drinking and lovely company. Swapped interesting stories. Stayed at Santa Pola again.
Sat 29 December 2008 Charles got home to London today. Left at 10.15am in a convoy towards Murcia. Murcia is under a smoky haze – yuk. Dry, flat, rocky, dusty, arid landscape with many palm trees and concrete towers – very ugly. Apparently all this development has occurred in the last 10 years spurned on by foreigners immigrating to warm Spain (English, German, Netherlanders etc). Drove through Albatera (like a huge construction zone). Arrived at Mojacar and parked on the beach where there were already many motorhomes parked. John made a lovely big b’fast for dinner. Bill, Malcolm and John were told to move by the police. I went and asked a few other English people parked near us who had not been told to move why we had. We were told that it was because Bill had his levelling ramps out – apparently you can not have washing drying, stairs pulled out from the doorway, awnings out etc as this is officially ‘camping’. We were all about to sit around and relax and so were disappointed that we had to move – this is the first time we have ever been moved on, but we had been warned about it. France is by far the best country for motorhoming with many places to stay with water, waste water and toilet dumps and free. Drove through the night (something we try not to do). By the way – John is very good at driving on the wrong (right) side of the road in a left hand drive. I don’t drive the motorhome any more even though we both purchased international licenses in Australia. It feels huge, is very wide and I feel like I take the whole road up! Drove about 20 kms to Agua Amergia with Bill and Malcolm following John. Down to the sand on the beach Bill got bogged and Malcolm pulled him out. The 3 of us parked side by side in Agua Amergia, a very pretty town with beautiful surrounding countryside.
Sun 30 December 2007 John had a shower in the motorhome and we departed at 12.35pm. Beautiful blue sky day. Magic ocean views looking down on the little village where we stayed from the high points we had driven. Agua Amergia looked beautiful – white washed houses, lovely coastline – John took photographs of Carboneras (Bay) in Gabo National Park. Very arid, lowest rainfall in Europe, treeless, rocky and mountainous - westerns are filmed here. The landscape of Almeria is like much of Southern Spain – dominated by mountain chains composed of hard, ancient rocks formed by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, ending some 10 million years ago. Quite stunning. I really like Spain now.. since leaving the touristed concrete jungles of the coast! Headed towards Nijar, Almeria, as John wants to see the ancient castle there. John, against the better judgement of Malcolm and Bill who were no longer following, got us stuck in a narrow cobbled street. Very stressful with 4mm to spare between concrete flats in front and concrete overhang behind. All these Spanish men appeared from no where and starting giving orders and helping John all in loud Spanish. The townsfolk all watching this spectacle from above on the balconies. Some were pushing the car from behind, others pushing down on one corner of the bonnet as her wheels were spinning but she wasn’t moving. John thinks its really funny that the Spanish men were putting their finger to their mouths saying shhhh to me!!!! Yes, I was stressed as was John – but I was more vocal…and had visions of our crushed motorhome being unsaleable! The Spanish men were so helpful and there was much MUCHUS GRACIAS from John after they got us out. Text to Bill and Malcolm who had been to see the castle. They found us eventually and we all departed (sadly without John seeing the castle after our ordeal) to Roquetas del Mar in the Almeria region where we all stayed near the beach.
Mon 31 December 2007 We all filled up with diesel and water and continued in our convoy towards Nerja. Bill is determined we all celebrate New Years in Nerja. The country from Roquetas del Mar through Los Yesos, La Mamola to Nerja was dry, rugged, rocky, arid mountains and the flat land covered by plastic glass houses as far as the eye can see. All the towns on the coast have an abundance of cranes towering over them with all the development of holiday towers going on. Very ugly. Drove through a few tunnels (sign stating Granada 91km, Malaga 130km). Today the road is very good and high above the Mediterranean Sea, often cut into rocky cliff. The roads in Spain so far are excellent, usually 3 lane highways and we have never seen so many trucks! Coffee stop at Calahonda under a huge rock cliff – I was keen to get going as there were big bits of rock all around us that are obviously continuing to erode! Drove to Nerja. Drinks with Bill and Malcolm in our van, then we all walked 5 mins into town to an English bar, then watched a fun Spanish band in the main square. Bill, Malcolm and John were in shouts, so when they were even I suggested we all go back to our place, so that they could continue and I could go to bed! They all agreed strangely enough!! The crowd consisted of approximately half Spanish and half English people – Nerja is now an English town in my opinion, as is much of the coast, although there are many Germans too. Lots of fireworks and a tradition is to eat 12 grapes on the 12 strikes of the bell. Australia’s New Year was at 3pm this afternoon, and Bill and Malcolm and half the people in Nerja celebrated New Year again at 1pm (New Year in England). There were cans everywhere containing just 12 grapes, especially for this tradition! Stayed free at Nerja.
Tues 1 Jan 2008 Malcolm, John and I went for a walk – beautiful clear blue sky warm day. Bill doesn’t do ‘walks’. Arrived at an animal refuge run by an English couple. Very moving to see all the donkeys, pigs, turkeys, horses, chickens, dogs and cats they had saved using their own resources. There are some very special people in this world. Their costs are huge, especially transport and veterinary bills. Gave a good donation. Lucky John, we don’t live here, as you were welcome to have any of the animals. Continued our walk to the camping sosta, 12 euros per night, and then along the beach back to our vans. Overwhelmingly English people everywhere, mostly retirees. Watched a Russell Crowe movie together, American Gangster, in Malcolm’s van (remember, we have had no TV for over 6 mths so a bit of a luxury!) Malcolm also always runs his heater, we have never used ours! Stayed at Nerja again.
Wed 2 Jan 2008 Went to an internet café and emailed Charles a Happy New Year. Pouring with rain so we all went to a Mexican bar/restaurant for beers, Malcolm whisky and coffee (me). Had some tapas – corn chips with dips but they vary a lot. All did some grocery shopping (still pouring). I made soup for dinner. Drinks in our van til 1am (as per usual). I really don’t know where Bill and Malcolm get their energy from.. all these late nights are wearing me out and they are much older than I!! Malcolm is incredible for 71 – never stops laughing – we really hit it off and I reckon John and Bill are more alike. Although we all got on very well together. We spoke to Chris (lives in Scotland) and Paul parked near us. Stayed in Nerja again.
Thurs 3 Jan 2008 We planned to drive Bill and Malcolm to see Frigiliana (6 kms inland) but it was pouring with rain. All decided to give it a miss. Lazy day – cold and wet. I cooked a stir fry and pancakes. Chris gave us the local Costa Blanca newspaper and a motorhome monthly magazine knowing we were selling our motorhome (very nice gesture). I gave Chris a dvd ‘American Gangster’. We swap books/dvds often with other motorhomers. All watched ‘Blood Diamond’ in Malcolm’s van – much whisky and beer to be had! Another very late night…… Stayed in Nerja again.
Fri 4 Jan 2008 Malcolm and Bill heading to Portugal via Torromolinos, and we to see a house for Gabriel in Las Alpujarras. We also need to stay in Spain to pick Jaki up from Seville on 2 Feb. Said our goodbyes (and to Chris and Paul) and swapped contact details. Departed for Frigiliana (Barb and Rolly’s recommendation) – picturesque, white washed houses with mostly natural wood or blue doors, narrow cobbled rock streets between the houses – with different coloured rocks making lovely patterns (common in Spain). Views from town (perched up high on a mountain) were of beautiful mountains and the Mediterranean about 4 kms down the valley – very beautiful. Andalucian village in the Sierra Almijara. John took photographs – we now have 1000s! Too many! Drove through Puente del Aguila and saw the XIXth century aqueduct which supplies water to Maro’s sugar factory. Drove to Solobrena, a Spanish coastal town consisting of a huddle of white houses with its long coast. Spoke to a 45 yo English guy who sold his house in England to live out his days in his motorhome with his 2 stray dogs! He plans to see all 48 European countries (we both calculated how many we’d seen so far) before he dies and can’t see the point in leaving his money behind. Why not? We have met a few people who live in their motorhomes (Malcolm, Barbara & Rolly – I would not be keen, although I am sure John would?!!). He told me Salobrena is a mostly Spanish town (refreshing after the gringo dominated coastal towns so far), that there is a salmon farm just off the coast which we had seen driving in from above, and that there are dolphins that live there. He was a wealth of information and told us the good spots to eat cheaply. That there is free wifi at the council, and it’s also offered by Spanish libraries. From Salobrena you can see the impressive and high 13th century Castillo Arabe. Went for a walk along the beach at dusk with John – I really like it here. Stayed at Salobrena right near beach.
Sat 5 January 2008 TO GABRIEL: John wanted to depart Salobrena (a lovely Spanish coastal town right on the beach) to drive to the Las Alpujarras in Andalucia; 70 kms of the great jumbled valleys of dry rocky mountains of the Alpujarras. To look at the mountains, views, area, villages, culture, and a house for our good friend Gabriel (12 Soledad Numero, Calle de Soledad Ferreirola, 150,000 euros fixed price, or so it says in the window of the house). Beautiful blue sky warm day, and this is the middle of winter! Cold at night though. Tonight is the Spanish children’s Christmas and they have a procession and throw lollies to the spectators – this is a long weekend in Spain, Mon is a bank holiday. Headed ever higher on a steep windy road, past a huge dam (broke the beauty), towards the snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and Las Alpujarras. The views of the dry rocky mountains were truly amazing. North bound (in front of us) was the snowed capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada and behind us we could see the Mediterranean. Drove through Orgiva (white cluster village) the capital of the Alpujarras, continuing through Carataunas (another white cluster village), to Pampaniera (1050m). A very picturesque little mountain village (white cluster of traditional houses with flat roofs) balancing precariously off a steep mountain). The traditional houses are made of stone, timber and mud with a flat roof and are often 500 years old. They are now all white washed which is a more recent development. Apparently it has antiseptic qualities and also keeps them cooler in summer. Anyways, it’s very pretty. The views from Pampaniera were amazing – the snow capped Sierra Nevada (the eternal snows of the high Sierras keep the 70 or so villages well watered all summer) right there in front of us, and the Mediterranean far below in the distance between 2 huge mountains. Walked around the cobbled streets of the little town (hippy new age shops, hand made leather sandals, outdoor stall selling locally grown vegies, books, rugs and souvenirs for sale). All these mountain villages have a lavandero (mountain water continuously runs into a series of washing tubs complete with permanent wash board on each, all under cover – see pic). Followed the steep cobbled street up and out of Pampaneira to a narrow, well marked dirt track that led to Bubion (1200m). What struck me was the beauty, peace and quiet stillness between the two white washed huddle of houses of Pampaneira below, and Bubion above. Reached Bubion (which has a bar, a few restaurants, even a tennis court, and all have a church, and an old lavandero – backbreaking work before whirlpool and cheap abundant fossil fuels, but interesting that washing was once a social activity compared to today where we stuff our clothes in machines in solitary confinement) and walked around in its beautiful quiet stillness. Bubion is an even higher picturesque white cluster village with the most fantastic breathtaking views in my opinion – could see the mountains in Morocco and far down in the valley between 2 mountains, a ship on the Mediterranean far below. (Prior to 1980 the whole of the Alpujarras were densely forested, but a fire rumoured to be started for a pulp paper co. burnt 1000s of acres, they then bought the wood at a fraction of its cost immediately afterwards. Although surprisingly, the countryside is still amazingly hauntingly beautiful, although mostly treeless except in patches). Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira 1440m, are three picturesque small villages and the most dramatically sited - and most touristed apparently, but not whilst we were there! So far the Spanish coast has been more touristed, but I am sure the Spanish and foreigners flee here from the coast in the hot summers. They all cling to the side of the deep Barranco de Poqueira Valley – 14-20 kms northeast of Orgiva. The village of Bubion is white so that the snow peaks of the Sierra Nevada seem just a continuation behind it! There are non-white traditional stone and mud flat roofed houses outside the villages so we saw them on the walk. Returned steeply down to Pampaniera (5 km round trip) in awe of the majestic mountains and scenery. The mountains are all terraced and irrigated – ubiquitous reminders of the flourishing Islamic/Visigoths/Romans past (whichever historian you believe). The Muslim communities replaced enmasse by Christian settlers in the 16th century. Visited a Spanish Café in the main square in the centre of town (not Englishfied like the Spanish coast – menu in Spanish (no English b’fast and roast with dumplings) and no English spoken. Melodious Spanish music played. Could recognise Choto (goat is widely eaten here) and Johnny recognised poor mans potatoes (another popular dish here). We have both read “Driving over Lemons – An Optimist in Andalucia” by Chris Stewart, which was very helpful. He was an Englishman who moved to a small farm in the Las Alpujarras and writes about his experiences, the locals, culture and lifestyle of the area. Had coffee, watching town life go by to Spanish music. Stayed in Pampaniera.
Sun 6 Jan 2008 TO GABRIEL: Left Pampaneira steeply for Pitres (10 kms). The caravan park recommended by Gabriel was closed. Beautiful warm blue sky day. Followed well signposted walking track to a little village called Atalbeitar enroute to look at a house for sale in Ferreirola. Very beautiful countryside, with the sound of running water from high up in the mountains almost continuously. There is much more vegetation on the Las Alpujarras than it seems when driving though them in the camper. Arrived at the white (all the houses white washed with lime) cluster village of Ferreirola (having past a Spanish goat herder and a Spanish girl, and 2 dogs). A beautiful, very quiet and peaceful village. A girl of about 10 was sitting near the lavendero, who we found out later was Helen’s daughter. Walked around looking for the house for sale and Eppi’s house (the owner). Saw 3 old people chatting in the sun with an amazing backdrop of huge rocky sheer mountains and a deep gorge below. The town to me was like stepping back in time to a gentler, more human paced way of life. A Spanish man gave us directions to Eppi’s house in perfect English. Forty seconds walk down the cobbled street. Eppi was not home but Helen, a women who lives a few doors up with 3 children and who has lived in the village for a few years, came and introduced herself. Helen said that Eppi runs a shop in Bubion but may be home after 2pm for lunch. However, it’s a special weekend in Spain and she may lunch with friends in Bubion. Helen took us to see the house which is about 6 along from hers (they are all joined – Spanish terrace houses). She told me on questioning that the pluses to living here were its picturesque scenery, climate, history and peace and quiet. I would like to add “its proximity to the mountains (skiing, walking or just admiring with a book) and the Mediterranean Coast – no where in Aust. can you get both!! And the coast could be too hot in Summer”. The minuses are that it’s pretty isolated, and no good if you are a sociable person as most people live here to get away (I thought how this would not suit me, but would suit Johnno). Gab – I reckon you are in between but you speak Spanish so could make friends more easily than one who doesn’t speak the language. In our opinion it is not very far from Pitres, Pampaneira, Bubion and even Orgiva – in fact, many little villages. It is also steep to get your shopping down to the house as you must park in the plaza (not an issue in our opinion). A bread van comes daily to the village and a bus to take people to the markets. Furthermore, there is no shop so you must drive to Pitres or it’s a very steep walk. Helen added that its cold in winter (Nov-April) she lit her last fire last year in April. We have had only warm glorious days here and yes, it gets cold at night; but we have never used our gas heater in the camper! I asked Helen about the huge development in town. She said that the locals are not very happy about it – 5 villas being built with a communal pool. The house is 2 storeys, fairly narrow, traditional, renovated and joined by a common wall to the neighbour. The view is stunning (we have many pics) of steep rocky mountains and a deep gorge. However, only 2 very small windows face the view (one on the ground floor and one on the top (2nd fl). The balcony is too small with no cover (too hot in summer with no cover, and you couldn’t sit there with friends as it is too small). There is no garden just a small window box along the front wall. Gab – I think you need some dirt to plant your chillis and parsley!! I believe, after seeing Bubion’s and Pampaneira’s views, that they are superior to Ferreirola’s (need to see the Mediterranean and the snow capped peaks!). We sat out the front of the house enjoying the views, warm sun and peace. John took lots of photos of the village, the house, the views, the vendre sign on the window etc for Gabriel. A man was looking down at us as he was watering his plants from a huge balcony 2 doors up. I realised that the balcony of no. 12 was way too small for tables/chairs and friends. No good. However, the view is right there and very spectacular – a treed mountain. Soulful Spanish music wafted from a house and broke the extreme quietness. John noticed some asbestos on the roof of the house (we are pretty experienced with the stuff after removing it from Stanmore). Eppi has still not returned. Very cool under the traditional heavy balconies everywhere. The cobbled narrow streets are designed with an indent in the centre to allow the mountain water to run down them. We had already returned along the dirt track to the mountain water fountain with its lovely ornate tiles bordering it. Waited for Eppi until 4pm but she didn’t return. We departed along the rest of the dirt walking trail to the sound of goat bells and running water in the distance. A few cats and a dog were sunbaking. This town is definitely more Spanish than foreigners. A Spanish family passed us on foot on the narrow steep track with a huge basket of black olives. Further along we passed a goat herder whom we’d recognised earlier at the fountain. Prickly Pear, cactus and olives are abundant. Looked for an old Muslim bridge but we had unfortunately taken the wrong turn. Walked through Fondales (little mountain village), then to Mecinilla, then to Mecina (a little dog followed us from Fondales to Mecina). Had coffee and beer on hotel porch here on a glorious day with beautiful views. Very steep walk up rocky path but lovely views, back to Pitres. Drove to Bubion and watched the sun set over the Moroccan mountains across the Mediterranean. Had a coffee/beer in a funky bar with an open fire going. Walked along the main street/road to another bar/restaurant and Johnny had another beer. John wanted to go to dinner and when he finally picked one they said they didn’t open til 7.30pm. I cooked dinner and we stayed at Bubion with magic views.
Mon 7 Jan 2008 (Public (bank) holiday) Left descending steeply from Bubion at 11.30am. Sheer rock cliffs on either side most of the time. Mountains amazing. Warm blue sky day. Sore ears at Orgiva from fast descent. Drove through Lanjaron, to Granada – Andalucia – traditional hotbed of flamenco. We are visiting the Alhambra (UNESCO world heritage site) on many recommendations, and meeting Kris and Julie our Canadian friends. Colder here than in the Alpujarras at 1400m! Found some very expensive campervan parking. The city of Granada embodies the mystery of Islamic Spain. The Alhambra Palace-Fortress is perched on a hill top known as La Sabika, in woods of cypress and elm. Very different to anything else we have seen in Europe so far – no doubt because it is Arabic and marvellously decorated. We wandered the Palacio Nazaries (the most brilliant Islamic building in Europe with many rooms and courtyards – intricately moulded stucco walls, beautiful tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and amazing elaborate stalactite-like vaulting, with Arabic inscriptions proliferating in the stuccowork. Then wandered the generalife gardens (where water is an art form), and the Alcazaba (citadel) including its watchtower with great views over Granada (although it was very smoggy). Amazing and fascinating history. Washington Irving (romantic writer) stayed briefly in the 1820s and wrote ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ now heavily restored. Unfortunately the Museo de la Alhambra was closed (holds a collection of Islamic artefacts found in and around Granada). Saw a photographic exhibition of photos of the Alhambra taken with the early black and white cameras. Walked back to our camper and Julie and Kris turned up shortly afterwards. A German couple (Christophe, Gabriel, and Bongo the dog) told us a great free spot to park for the night up on the mountain 3 kms away in the national recreation park with views of the Sierra Nevada and Granada. We all headed there for the night (very misty, cold and couldn’t see past 2 metres in front of you) and swapped stories of our motorhoming adventures so far.
Tues 8 January 2008 Slept in and awoke to an amazing view of a snow covered huge mountain (Sierra Nevada) and Granada below. Many joggers, hikers and cyclists past by today. Kris, Julie, and John went for a very steep 8 km walk to get some groceries. Julie cooked a lovely stew and they all drank wine into the wee hours. Great night. Stayed outside Granada at recreation park on the mountain again.
Wed 9 January 2008 Said our goodbyes to Kris and Julie who are off to Almeria. We to find the natural thermal springs around Alhama de Granada (that Barb and Rolly had told us about back in France). Went through a housing development with only lamp posts and roads. Drove through some small towns and dry rolling hills with olive trees all the way before reaching Alhama de Granada. Alhama has an amazing deep gorge, old ruins in the town, and in the gorge. Followed the path on the edge of the old part of town along the top of a cliff. Amazing lovely views. Saw the old dungeons (no longer in use) used in the past for storing wheat, for prisoners during a few wars who ensured chains and beatings, and, they were also lived in by people in extreme poverty. Had a walk around the beautiful town – many crumbling beautiful old places (although foreigners and some Spanish are slowly buying and restoring them). Visited the old church and 15th century ? hospital. Parked outside the tourist office and police station on a cobbled road in Alhama de Granada.
Thursday 10 Jan 2008 John disappeared for 2 hours for a walk, a visit to the tourist office for maps and info. and local library to use the internet. On his return he told me that the bridge we passed on the way into town was from the 1st century. Drove to the hot springs 2 kms away. John had already walked to them up a huge mountain. Beautiful gorge, bit of a dirt track lined with olive trees, and local shaking them out of the trees into huge nets laid out on the ground. We both lay in the thermal spring. Fantastic, relaxing, and warm and surrounded by beautiful countryside. Lucky the thermal spring is not in the Rough Guide to Spain or the Lonely Planet Spain or it would be so crowded you wouldn’t be able to get in. Spoke to a local man who grew up in Alhama de Granada and he told me that the hotel next door has a thermal spring pool indoors. The hotel diverted the thermal water straight into the river, rather than into the bath on the river, so that the locals could no longer use/bath in it. The hotel did not think the look of old Spanish men bathing in their y fronts at the entrance to their grand expensive hotel was good for business (John thinks this is fair enough!). The locals protested so loudly that the water belonged to everybody that the hotel begrudgingly had to return the thermal water to the concrete bath on the river bank. I thought it was so wonderful to have all the local people (peasants and farmers) arriving with their soap and having a bath in it (I recognised the olive pickers and tractor driver). So, John and I did the same! The Spanish man answered all my questions, and told me that the abandoned crumbling houses were too expensive for locals to renovate, but that foreigners were buying and renovating them. He had lived in England for 12 years but said he never felt at home. I cooked salmon for lunch and we then returned for a last soak in the thermal spring. Drove back to town and used the library internet (Michelle as our house needs a new gas hot water system $1800, Nik and Katy), had a coffee/2 beers and 2 tapas at a local bar. Chatted to two local Spanish men with no English, we no Spanish for a while! Felt very refreshed from the spring reputed to have healing properties. Stayed again at Alhama de Granada.
Friday 11 January 2008 Departed at 11am and drove steeply up for approx. 10 km through Zafarraya. A sign just past this tiny town stated “Province of Malaga”. Sheer cliffs, steep amazing rocky mountains - we’re now descending steeply to the coast. The road clings to the mountain and is quite narrow and had fallen away in a few places. Looking down at valleys and ahead to mountains, with villages in the valley and scattered up higher on the mountains, surrounded by olive trees. Arrived at Torremolinos on the Costa del Sol and drove the road horizontal to the seafront path to all the shops (Burger King, souvenirs and English breakfasts). Sent text to Malcolm and Bill but they were already in Portugal. The mountains in the distance bordering Torremolinos look lovely and the beach is also nice but the sand is greyish brown. The rest is touristic ugly development. The old part of town is apparently not without charm but we parked up in front of new villas opposite the beach. Two Spanish motorhomes arrived and we tried to converse with great difficulty but worked out that we were all staying the night and that they had a relative living in Sydney. John went for a walk to top up his UK mobile (which has been impossible so far) and I cooked a stew. Gabriel sent us a text. Stayed at Torremolinos opposite the beach.
Sat 12 January 2008 Left for Marbella Caravan Park recommended to us by Kris and Julie as it has wifi (blog and emails) and we needed to do our washing. Followed the coast road and not the toll way which is inland and they are usually not scenic. Drove through Fuengirola, then through Toranueva. Arrived at Camping Marbella Playa and stayed the night.
Sunday 13 January 2008 I did a lot of washing by hand. Met Jim Bell parked in front of us (whom we hung out with for the rest of the stay. A retired Scottish man who lives with his wife Judy and their 2 poodles Sammy and Lenny on the Isle of Man.) All went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and when we went to pay Jim had already paid for us all. Very kind of him. Lovely evening. Fun late night chatting. Stayed Marbella again.
Monday 14 January 2008 Got a password for the internet today. Cooked a bbq with Jim and had another late fun night chatting. John and I watched Romulus my Father (very sad movie). Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Tuesday 15 January 2008 I cooked stir-fry for Jim and John. Late night chatting and drinking together. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Wednesday 16 January 2008 John put our campervan on the Loot website for a fee. Jim, John and I all went out to a Danish café for dinner and had garlic prawns and hamburgers. Came back to our camper for drinks and late night chatting. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Thursday 17 January 2008 John and I vacuumed and washed our motorhome for the first time today. We went for a walk along the beach. I made lamb cutlets and roast veg for Jim, John and I. The English couple from Norwich (Carol and Murray) arrived and we had drinks and chatted to them all night in Jim’s palatial huge motorhome with pop out sides. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Friday 18 January 2008 Carol and Murray came by to chat to Jim, John and I in the afternoon sun. Linda did the blog… boring… Someone sent a text re our loot advertisement for our motorhome. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Saturday 19 January 2008 Walk along the beach. Relaxed and watched movies.
22 December 2007 Looked at David and Sharon’s blog again about their trip to Granada in 2000 and Condoba in 2005 for tips. Joe and Claire skyped us and gave us a tour of their lovely apartment, they both look great, and we saw their new cat. John downloaded camping car sights for the tom tom most of the day. We both walked in the pouring rain into Albir to a café run by an English couple and had big English breakfasts and tea/beer. You’ve no idea how good this is when you have been in Italy and France for months where they are impossible to find! Walked back to Alfas del Pi in the pouring rain, relaxed, emailed, and stayed the night again.
23 December 2007 We walked into Albir to the English couple’s café again, and again it was pouring rain. Both had a roast dinner and tea/beer which was very nice. We don’t have a gas oven in the van, only electric, so you need to be hooked up to power to use it. Peter visited us and invited us to his place. John and Peter drank cheap wine/whisky (alcohol and cigarettes are the only things in Spain that are cheaper than Australia!!), chatted and watched English TV, and I did 2 loads of washing (thanks Peter). Poured all day so was nice to be at Peter’s in front of the heater. Walked home to van in Alfas del Pi in pouring rain again.
24 December 2007 After receiving helpful feedback from Stuart/Collette and David/Sharon we placed our advert on Gumtree for our camper. Jaki emailed us her flights – we pick her up on 2 Feb in Seville and drop her in Lisbon Portugal on 15 Feb. We are looking forward to seeing her and travelling together. Hugh skyped us to say Merry Christmas which was a really nice surprise and made my day – thanks Hugh for having all your technology back up and running on time to skype us for Christmas – much appreciated. Spoke to Alex – they are going to Tina’s for Christmas, Jen is in Vietnam for 5 weeks with Scotty over Chrissy. Paid our 72 euros for the last few nights and emptied waste water etc. Met 2 weird hippies who came over to chat to us as they had also been staying at ‘Costa Blanca Motorhome Park’ also. Said goodbye to Willem and Marlene (Danish) who we met at Peniscola and were also staying here. Did some grocery shopping in Albir and drove to Peter’s villa. Our washing was dry on his line and eventually Peter arrived drunk! John made fantastic turkey green curry for Christmas Eve. Watched movies with Peter (Adrift). Stayed at Peter’s in Alfas del Pi.
Tues 25 December 2007 Perfect warm blue sky day approx. 19 degrees. Sat in sun with Peter and John over coffee. Walked into Albir and caught the bus to Benidorm to the Union Jack Pub. Peter had wanted us all to have Christmas together here. It was smoky and very loud and the turkey roast was not that great. The place was packed with English people. John and I went for a walk along the promenade at Benidorm main beach – what a horrible place. Concrete high-rises everywhere – think Gold Coast. John calls it the ‘jewel of the Costa Blanca’! unfortunately the rest of the Spanish coast so far has not been much better. Returned to the Union Jack to pick up Peter who was not there. We bussed back to Peter’s and the lights were on and he was home. All watched movies together and we stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Wed 26 December 2007 I slept in whilst John changed the fan belt. Beautiful blue sky day around 19 degrees. Quiet day, watch movies (vampire movie, Blade, Master & Commander). I cooked dinner for John and Peter whilst the lightening started and it began to pour with rain. Stayed at Peter’s at Alfas del Pi.
Thurs 27 December 2007 Rain had stopped, warm with beautiful blue skies. Sat in the morning sun with Peter and John and said goodbye/thankyou to Peter. This is the sad thing about motorhoming, you become friends with people that you get on so well with, and then have to leave. Also being Australian the chance of seeing them again is remote. This is one thing I don’t like! John took photos of us all for my memories. Departed at 11.45am and filled up, and headed through La Nucia (new and ugly). Imposing rock mountains with amazing sharp skyline in front of us that we could see from Alfas del Pi. Continued through Polop de la Marina towards those beautiful amazing mountains. Arrived at Guadalest (history goes back to at least AD 715) with its stone castle “Castillo de San Jose” perched on a very steep top of a rock cliff with amazing rock spire. Amazing rocky sharp mountains with a sea green dam down in the valley. Strolled around this traffic-free village which has become a tourist trap – kitsch souvenir shops everywhere. However, we visited the ‘museo etnologico’ (free but compulsory donation) which showed a very interesting account of Guadalest peasant life before cheap abundant fossil fuels (the animals: goats, pig, chickens, lived under the house, olives and grapes were crushed for oil and wine). Drove to Santa Pola and inadvertently found many motorhomes parked on the water (sign stating “NO MOTORHOMES”, but they get around it because it also states “TOURIST PARKING”, so we parked where we could hear the waves lapping all night. Saw GB number plates so went over and introduced ourselves to Bill and Malcolm. Stayed free at Santa Pola.
Fri 28 December 2008 Malcolm and Bill came over to say they were going to get water and offered to take John with his 3 20 litre jerry cans to collect some. Warm lovely blue sky day. They were all gone for ages.. so I walked up to the supermarket along the beach to get some groceries. It was very relaxing, quiet and not many people around. Very late night in our van with Bill (55, lives near Bath England) and Malcolm (71, English but lived in Spain for past 20 years). Much beer and whisky drinking and lovely company. Swapped interesting stories. Stayed at Santa Pola again.
Sat 29 December 2008 Charles got home to London today. Left at 10.15am in a convoy towards Murcia. Murcia is under a smoky haze – yuk. Dry, flat, rocky, dusty, arid landscape with many palm trees and concrete towers – very ugly. Apparently all this development has occurred in the last 10 years spurned on by foreigners immigrating to warm Spain (English, German, Netherlanders etc). Drove through Albatera (like a huge construction zone). Arrived at Mojacar and parked on the beach where there were already many motorhomes parked. John made a lovely big b’fast for dinner. Bill, Malcolm and John were told to move by the police. I went and asked a few other English people parked near us who had not been told to move why we had. We were told that it was because Bill had his levelling ramps out – apparently you can not have washing drying, stairs pulled out from the doorway, awnings out etc as this is officially ‘camping’. We were all about to sit around and relax and so were disappointed that we had to move – this is the first time we have ever been moved on, but we had been warned about it. France is by far the best country for motorhoming with many places to stay with water, waste water and toilet dumps and free. Drove through the night (something we try not to do). By the way – John is very good at driving on the wrong (right) side of the road in a left hand drive. I don’t drive the motorhome any more even though we both purchased international licenses in Australia. It feels huge, is very wide and I feel like I take the whole road up! Drove about 20 kms to Agua Amergia with Bill and Malcolm following John. Down to the sand on the beach Bill got bogged and Malcolm pulled him out. The 3 of us parked side by side in Agua Amergia, a very pretty town with beautiful surrounding countryside.
Sun 30 December 2007 John had a shower in the motorhome and we departed at 12.35pm. Beautiful blue sky day. Magic ocean views looking down on the little village where we stayed from the high points we had driven. Agua Amergia looked beautiful – white washed houses, lovely coastline – John took photographs of Carboneras (Bay) in Gabo National Park. Very arid, lowest rainfall in Europe, treeless, rocky and mountainous - westerns are filmed here. The landscape of Almeria is like much of Southern Spain – dominated by mountain chains composed of hard, ancient rocks formed by the collision of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates, ending some 10 million years ago. Quite stunning. I really like Spain now.. since leaving the touristed concrete jungles of the coast! Headed towards Nijar, Almeria, as John wants to see the ancient castle there. John, against the better judgement of Malcolm and Bill who were no longer following, got us stuck in a narrow cobbled street. Very stressful with 4mm to spare between concrete flats in front and concrete overhang behind. All these Spanish men appeared from no where and starting giving orders and helping John all in loud Spanish. The townsfolk all watching this spectacle from above on the balconies. Some were pushing the car from behind, others pushing down on one corner of the bonnet as her wheels were spinning but she wasn’t moving. John thinks its really funny that the Spanish men were putting their finger to their mouths saying shhhh to me!!!! Yes, I was stressed as was John – but I was more vocal…and had visions of our crushed motorhome being unsaleable! The Spanish men were so helpful and there was much MUCHUS GRACIAS from John after they got us out. Text to Bill and Malcolm who had been to see the castle. They found us eventually and we all departed (sadly without John seeing the castle after our ordeal) to Roquetas del Mar in the Almeria region where we all stayed near the beach.
Mon 31 December 2007 We all filled up with diesel and water and continued in our convoy towards Nerja. Bill is determined we all celebrate New Years in Nerja. The country from Roquetas del Mar through Los Yesos, La Mamola to Nerja was dry, rugged, rocky, arid mountains and the flat land covered by plastic glass houses as far as the eye can see. All the towns on the coast have an abundance of cranes towering over them with all the development of holiday towers going on. Very ugly. Drove through a few tunnels (sign stating Granada 91km, Malaga 130km). Today the road is very good and high above the Mediterranean Sea, often cut into rocky cliff. The roads in Spain so far are excellent, usually 3 lane highways and we have never seen so many trucks! Coffee stop at Calahonda under a huge rock cliff – I was keen to get going as there were big bits of rock all around us that are obviously continuing to erode! Drove to Nerja. Drinks with Bill and Malcolm in our van, then we all walked 5 mins into town to an English bar, then watched a fun Spanish band in the main square. Bill, Malcolm and John were in shouts, so when they were even I suggested we all go back to our place, so that they could continue and I could go to bed! They all agreed strangely enough!! The crowd consisted of approximately half Spanish and half English people – Nerja is now an English town in my opinion, as is much of the coast, although there are many Germans too. Lots of fireworks and a tradition is to eat 12 grapes on the 12 strikes of the bell. Australia’s New Year was at 3pm this afternoon, and Bill and Malcolm and half the people in Nerja celebrated New Year again at 1pm (New Year in England). There were cans everywhere containing just 12 grapes, especially for this tradition! Stayed free at Nerja.
Tues 1 Jan 2008 Malcolm, John and I went for a walk – beautiful clear blue sky warm day. Bill doesn’t do ‘walks’. Arrived at an animal refuge run by an English couple. Very moving to see all the donkeys, pigs, turkeys, horses, chickens, dogs and cats they had saved using their own resources. There are some very special people in this world. Their costs are huge, especially transport and veterinary bills. Gave a good donation. Lucky John, we don’t live here, as you were welcome to have any of the animals. Continued our walk to the camping sosta, 12 euros per night, and then along the beach back to our vans. Overwhelmingly English people everywhere, mostly retirees. Watched a Russell Crowe movie together, American Gangster, in Malcolm’s van (remember, we have had no TV for over 6 mths so a bit of a luxury!) Malcolm also always runs his heater, we have never used ours! Stayed at Nerja again.
Wed 2 Jan 2008 Went to an internet café and emailed Charles a Happy New Year. Pouring with rain so we all went to a Mexican bar/restaurant for beers, Malcolm whisky and coffee (me). Had some tapas – corn chips with dips but they vary a lot. All did some grocery shopping (still pouring). I made soup for dinner. Drinks in our van til 1am (as per usual). I really don’t know where Bill and Malcolm get their energy from.. all these late nights are wearing me out and they are much older than I!! Malcolm is incredible for 71 – never stops laughing – we really hit it off and I reckon John and Bill are more alike. Although we all got on very well together. We spoke to Chris (lives in Scotland) and Paul parked near us. Stayed in Nerja again.
Thurs 3 Jan 2008 We planned to drive Bill and Malcolm to see Frigiliana (6 kms inland) but it was pouring with rain. All decided to give it a miss. Lazy day – cold and wet. I cooked a stir fry and pancakes. Chris gave us the local Costa Blanca newspaper and a motorhome monthly magazine knowing we were selling our motorhome (very nice gesture). I gave Chris a dvd ‘American Gangster’. We swap books/dvds often with other motorhomers. All watched ‘Blood Diamond’ in Malcolm’s van – much whisky and beer to be had! Another very late night…… Stayed in Nerja again.
Fri 4 Jan 2008 Malcolm and Bill heading to Portugal via Torromolinos, and we to see a house for Gabriel in Las Alpujarras. We also need to stay in Spain to pick Jaki up from Seville on 2 Feb. Said our goodbyes (and to Chris and Paul) and swapped contact details. Departed for Frigiliana (Barb and Rolly’s recommendation) – picturesque, white washed houses with mostly natural wood or blue doors, narrow cobbled rock streets between the houses – with different coloured rocks making lovely patterns (common in Spain). Views from town (perched up high on a mountain) were of beautiful mountains and the Mediterranean about 4 kms down the valley – very beautiful. Andalucian village in the Sierra Almijara. John took photographs – we now have 1000s! Too many! Drove through Puente del Aguila and saw the XIXth century aqueduct which supplies water to Maro’s sugar factory. Drove to Solobrena, a Spanish coastal town consisting of a huddle of white houses with its long coast. Spoke to a 45 yo English guy who sold his house in England to live out his days in his motorhome with his 2 stray dogs! He plans to see all 48 European countries (we both calculated how many we’d seen so far) before he dies and can’t see the point in leaving his money behind. Why not? We have met a few people who live in their motorhomes (Malcolm, Barbara & Rolly – I would not be keen, although I am sure John would?!!). He told me Salobrena is a mostly Spanish town (refreshing after the gringo dominated coastal towns so far), that there is a salmon farm just off the coast which we had seen driving in from above, and that there are dolphins that live there. He was a wealth of information and told us the good spots to eat cheaply. That there is free wifi at the council, and it’s also offered by Spanish libraries. From Salobrena you can see the impressive and high 13th century Castillo Arabe. Went for a walk along the beach at dusk with John – I really like it here. Stayed at Salobrena right near beach.
Sat 5 January 2008 TO GABRIEL: John wanted to depart Salobrena (a lovely Spanish coastal town right on the beach) to drive to the Las Alpujarras in Andalucia; 70 kms of the great jumbled valleys of dry rocky mountains of the Alpujarras. To look at the mountains, views, area, villages, culture, and a house for our good friend Gabriel (12 Soledad Numero, Calle de Soledad Ferreirola, 150,000 euros fixed price, or so it says in the window of the house). Beautiful blue sky warm day, and this is the middle of winter! Cold at night though. Tonight is the Spanish children’s Christmas and they have a procession and throw lollies to the spectators – this is a long weekend in Spain, Mon is a bank holiday. Headed ever higher on a steep windy road, past a huge dam (broke the beauty), towards the snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada, and Las Alpujarras. The views of the dry rocky mountains were truly amazing. North bound (in front of us) was the snowed capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada and behind us we could see the Mediterranean. Drove through Orgiva (white cluster village) the capital of the Alpujarras, continuing through Carataunas (another white cluster village), to Pampaniera (1050m). A very picturesque little mountain village (white cluster of traditional houses with flat roofs) balancing precariously off a steep mountain). The traditional houses are made of stone, timber and mud with a flat roof and are often 500 years old. They are now all white washed which is a more recent development. Apparently it has antiseptic qualities and also keeps them cooler in summer. Anyways, it’s very pretty. The views from Pampaniera were amazing – the snow capped Sierra Nevada (the eternal snows of the high Sierras keep the 70 or so villages well watered all summer) right there in front of us, and the Mediterranean far below in the distance between 2 huge mountains. Walked around the cobbled streets of the little town (hippy new age shops, hand made leather sandals, outdoor stall selling locally grown vegies, books, rugs and souvenirs for sale). All these mountain villages have a lavandero (mountain water continuously runs into a series of washing tubs complete with permanent wash board on each, all under cover – see pic). Followed the steep cobbled street up and out of Pampaneira to a narrow, well marked dirt track that led to Bubion (1200m). What struck me was the beauty, peace and quiet stillness between the two white washed huddle of houses of Pampaneira below, and Bubion above. Reached Bubion (which has a bar, a few restaurants, even a tennis court, and all have a church, and an old lavandero – backbreaking work before whirlpool and cheap abundant fossil fuels, but interesting that washing was once a social activity compared to today where we stuff our clothes in machines in solitary confinement) and walked around in its beautiful quiet stillness. Bubion is an even higher picturesque white cluster village with the most fantastic breathtaking views in my opinion – could see the mountains in Morocco and far down in the valley between 2 mountains, a ship on the Mediterranean far below. (Prior to 1980 the whole of the Alpujarras were densely forested, but a fire rumoured to be started for a pulp paper co. burnt 1000s of acres, they then bought the wood at a fraction of its cost immediately afterwards. Although surprisingly, the countryside is still amazingly hauntingly beautiful, although mostly treeless except in patches). Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira 1440m, are three picturesque small villages and the most dramatically sited - and most touristed apparently, but not whilst we were there! So far the Spanish coast has been more touristed, but I am sure the Spanish and foreigners flee here from the coast in the hot summers. They all cling to the side of the deep Barranco de Poqueira Valley – 14-20 kms northeast of Orgiva. The village of Bubion is white so that the snow peaks of the Sierra Nevada seem just a continuation behind it! There are non-white traditional stone and mud flat roofed houses outside the villages so we saw them on the walk. Returned steeply down to Pampaniera (5 km round trip) in awe of the majestic mountains and scenery. The mountains are all terraced and irrigated – ubiquitous reminders of the flourishing Islamic/Visigoths/Romans past (whichever historian you believe). The Muslim communities replaced enmasse by Christian settlers in the 16th century. Visited a Spanish Café in the main square in the centre of town (not Englishfied like the Spanish coast – menu in Spanish (no English b’fast and roast with dumplings) and no English spoken. Melodious Spanish music played. Could recognise Choto (goat is widely eaten here) and Johnny recognised poor mans potatoes (another popular dish here). We have both read “Driving over Lemons – An Optimist in Andalucia” by Chris Stewart, which was very helpful. He was an Englishman who moved to a small farm in the Las Alpujarras and writes about his experiences, the locals, culture and lifestyle of the area. Had coffee, watching town life go by to Spanish music. Stayed in Pampaniera.
Sun 6 Jan 2008 TO GABRIEL: Left Pampaneira steeply for Pitres (10 kms). The caravan park recommended by Gabriel was closed. Beautiful warm blue sky day. Followed well signposted walking track to a little village called Atalbeitar enroute to look at a house for sale in Ferreirola. Very beautiful countryside, with the sound of running water from high up in the mountains almost continuously. There is much more vegetation on the Las Alpujarras than it seems when driving though them in the camper. Arrived at the white (all the houses white washed with lime) cluster village of Ferreirola (having past a Spanish goat herder and a Spanish girl, and 2 dogs). A beautiful, very quiet and peaceful village. A girl of about 10 was sitting near the lavendero, who we found out later was Helen’s daughter. Walked around looking for the house for sale and Eppi’s house (the owner). Saw 3 old people chatting in the sun with an amazing backdrop of huge rocky sheer mountains and a deep gorge below. The town to me was like stepping back in time to a gentler, more human paced way of life. A Spanish man gave us directions to Eppi’s house in perfect English. Forty seconds walk down the cobbled street. Eppi was not home but Helen, a women who lives a few doors up with 3 children and who has lived in the village for a few years, came and introduced herself. Helen said that Eppi runs a shop in Bubion but may be home after 2pm for lunch. However, it’s a special weekend in Spain and she may lunch with friends in Bubion. Helen took us to see the house which is about 6 along from hers (they are all joined – Spanish terrace houses). She told me on questioning that the pluses to living here were its picturesque scenery, climate, history and peace and quiet. I would like to add “its proximity to the mountains (skiing, walking or just admiring with a book) and the Mediterranean Coast – no where in Aust. can you get both!! And the coast could be too hot in Summer”. The minuses are that it’s pretty isolated, and no good if you are a sociable person as most people live here to get away (I thought how this would not suit me, but would suit Johnno). Gab – I reckon you are in between but you speak Spanish so could make friends more easily than one who doesn’t speak the language. In our opinion it is not very far from Pitres, Pampaneira, Bubion and even Orgiva – in fact, many little villages. It is also steep to get your shopping down to the house as you must park in the plaza (not an issue in our opinion). A bread van comes daily to the village and a bus to take people to the markets. Furthermore, there is no shop so you must drive to Pitres or it’s a very steep walk. Helen added that its cold in winter (Nov-April) she lit her last fire last year in April. We have had only warm glorious days here and yes, it gets cold at night; but we have never used our gas heater in the camper! I asked Helen about the huge development in town. She said that the locals are not very happy about it – 5 villas being built with a communal pool. The house is 2 storeys, fairly narrow, traditional, renovated and joined by a common wall to the neighbour. The view is stunning (we have many pics) of steep rocky mountains and a deep gorge. However, only 2 very small windows face the view (one on the ground floor and one on the top (2nd fl). The balcony is too small with no cover (too hot in summer with no cover, and you couldn’t sit there with friends as it is too small). There is no garden just a small window box along the front wall. Gab – I think you need some dirt to plant your chillis and parsley!! I believe, after seeing Bubion’s and Pampaneira’s views, that they are superior to Ferreirola’s (need to see the Mediterranean and the snow capped peaks!). We sat out the front of the house enjoying the views, warm sun and peace. John took lots of photos of the village, the house, the views, the vendre sign on the window etc for Gabriel. A man was looking down at us as he was watering his plants from a huge balcony 2 doors up. I realised that the balcony of no. 12 was way too small for tables/chairs and friends. No good. However, the view is right there and very spectacular – a treed mountain. Soulful Spanish music wafted from a house and broke the extreme quietness. John noticed some asbestos on the roof of the house (we are pretty experienced with the stuff after removing it from Stanmore). Eppi has still not returned. Very cool under the traditional heavy balconies everywhere. The cobbled narrow streets are designed with an indent in the centre to allow the mountain water to run down them. We had already returned along the dirt track to the mountain water fountain with its lovely ornate tiles bordering it. Waited for Eppi until 4pm but she didn’t return. We departed along the rest of the dirt walking trail to the sound of goat bells and running water in the distance. A few cats and a dog were sunbaking. This town is definitely more Spanish than foreigners. A Spanish family passed us on foot on the narrow steep track with a huge basket of black olives. Further along we passed a goat herder whom we’d recognised earlier at the fountain. Prickly Pear, cactus and olives are abundant. Looked for an old Muslim bridge but we had unfortunately taken the wrong turn. Walked through Fondales (little mountain village), then to Mecinilla, then to Mecina (a little dog followed us from Fondales to Mecina). Had coffee and beer on hotel porch here on a glorious day with beautiful views. Very steep walk up rocky path but lovely views, back to Pitres. Drove to Bubion and watched the sun set over the Moroccan mountains across the Mediterranean. Had a coffee/beer in a funky bar with an open fire going. Walked along the main street/road to another bar/restaurant and Johnny had another beer. John wanted to go to dinner and when he finally picked one they said they didn’t open til 7.30pm. I cooked dinner and we stayed at Bubion with magic views.
Mon 7 Jan 2008 (Public (bank) holiday) Left descending steeply from Bubion at 11.30am. Sheer rock cliffs on either side most of the time. Mountains amazing. Warm blue sky day. Sore ears at Orgiva from fast descent. Drove through Lanjaron, to Granada – Andalucia – traditional hotbed of flamenco. We are visiting the Alhambra (UNESCO world heritage site) on many recommendations, and meeting Kris and Julie our Canadian friends. Colder here than in the Alpujarras at 1400m! Found some very expensive campervan parking. The city of Granada embodies the mystery of Islamic Spain. The Alhambra Palace-Fortress is perched on a hill top known as La Sabika, in woods of cypress and elm. Very different to anything else we have seen in Europe so far – no doubt because it is Arabic and marvellously decorated. We wandered the Palacio Nazaries (the most brilliant Islamic building in Europe with many rooms and courtyards – intricately moulded stucco walls, beautiful tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and amazing elaborate stalactite-like vaulting, with Arabic inscriptions proliferating in the stuccowork. Then wandered the generalife gardens (where water is an art form), and the Alcazaba (citadel) including its watchtower with great views over Granada (although it was very smoggy). Amazing and fascinating history. Washington Irving (romantic writer) stayed briefly in the 1820s and wrote ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ now heavily restored. Unfortunately the Museo de la Alhambra was closed (holds a collection of Islamic artefacts found in and around Granada). Saw a photographic exhibition of photos of the Alhambra taken with the early black and white cameras. Walked back to our camper and Julie and Kris turned up shortly afterwards. A German couple (Christophe, Gabriel, and Bongo the dog) told us a great free spot to park for the night up on the mountain 3 kms away in the national recreation park with views of the Sierra Nevada and Granada. We all headed there for the night (very misty, cold and couldn’t see past 2 metres in front of you) and swapped stories of our motorhoming adventures so far.
Tues 8 January 2008 Slept in and awoke to an amazing view of a snow covered huge mountain (Sierra Nevada) and Granada below. Many joggers, hikers and cyclists past by today. Kris, Julie, and John went for a very steep 8 km walk to get some groceries. Julie cooked a lovely stew and they all drank wine into the wee hours. Great night. Stayed outside Granada at recreation park on the mountain again.
Wed 9 January 2008 Said our goodbyes to Kris and Julie who are off to Almeria. We to find the natural thermal springs around Alhama de Granada (that Barb and Rolly had told us about back in France). Went through a housing development with only lamp posts and roads. Drove through some small towns and dry rolling hills with olive trees all the way before reaching Alhama de Granada. Alhama has an amazing deep gorge, old ruins in the town, and in the gorge. Followed the path on the edge of the old part of town along the top of a cliff. Amazing lovely views. Saw the old dungeons (no longer in use) used in the past for storing wheat, for prisoners during a few wars who ensured chains and beatings, and, they were also lived in by people in extreme poverty. Had a walk around the beautiful town – many crumbling beautiful old places (although foreigners and some Spanish are slowly buying and restoring them). Visited the old church and 15th century ? hospital. Parked outside the tourist office and police station on a cobbled road in Alhama de Granada.
Thursday 10 Jan 2008 John disappeared for 2 hours for a walk, a visit to the tourist office for maps and info. and local library to use the internet. On his return he told me that the bridge we passed on the way into town was from the 1st century. Drove to the hot springs 2 kms away. John had already walked to them up a huge mountain. Beautiful gorge, bit of a dirt track lined with olive trees, and local shaking them out of the trees into huge nets laid out on the ground. We both lay in the thermal spring. Fantastic, relaxing, and warm and surrounded by beautiful countryside. Lucky the thermal spring is not in the Rough Guide to Spain or the Lonely Planet Spain or it would be so crowded you wouldn’t be able to get in. Spoke to a local man who grew up in Alhama de Granada and he told me that the hotel next door has a thermal spring pool indoors. The hotel diverted the thermal water straight into the river, rather than into the bath on the river, so that the locals could no longer use/bath in it. The hotel did not think the look of old Spanish men bathing in their y fronts at the entrance to their grand expensive hotel was good for business (John thinks this is fair enough!). The locals protested so loudly that the water belonged to everybody that the hotel begrudgingly had to return the thermal water to the concrete bath on the river bank. I thought it was so wonderful to have all the local people (peasants and farmers) arriving with their soap and having a bath in it (I recognised the olive pickers and tractor driver). So, John and I did the same! The Spanish man answered all my questions, and told me that the abandoned crumbling houses were too expensive for locals to renovate, but that foreigners were buying and renovating them. He had lived in England for 12 years but said he never felt at home. I cooked salmon for lunch and we then returned for a last soak in the thermal spring. Drove back to town and used the library internet (Michelle as our house needs a new gas hot water system $1800, Nik and Katy), had a coffee/2 beers and 2 tapas at a local bar. Chatted to two local Spanish men with no English, we no Spanish for a while! Felt very refreshed from the spring reputed to have healing properties. Stayed again at Alhama de Granada.
Friday 11 January 2008 Departed at 11am and drove steeply up for approx. 10 km through Zafarraya. A sign just past this tiny town stated “Province of Malaga”. Sheer cliffs, steep amazing rocky mountains - we’re now descending steeply to the coast. The road clings to the mountain and is quite narrow and had fallen away in a few places. Looking down at valleys and ahead to mountains, with villages in the valley and scattered up higher on the mountains, surrounded by olive trees. Arrived at Torremolinos on the Costa del Sol and drove the road horizontal to the seafront path to all the shops (Burger King, souvenirs and English breakfasts). Sent text to Malcolm and Bill but they were already in Portugal. The mountains in the distance bordering Torremolinos look lovely and the beach is also nice but the sand is greyish brown. The rest is touristic ugly development. The old part of town is apparently not without charm but we parked up in front of new villas opposite the beach. Two Spanish motorhomes arrived and we tried to converse with great difficulty but worked out that we were all staying the night and that they had a relative living in Sydney. John went for a walk to top up his UK mobile (which has been impossible so far) and I cooked a stew. Gabriel sent us a text. Stayed at Torremolinos opposite the beach.
Sat 12 January 2008 Left for Marbella Caravan Park recommended to us by Kris and Julie as it has wifi (blog and emails) and we needed to do our washing. Followed the coast road and not the toll way which is inland and they are usually not scenic. Drove through Fuengirola, then through Toranueva. Arrived at Camping Marbella Playa and stayed the night.
Sunday 13 January 2008 I did a lot of washing by hand. Met Jim Bell parked in front of us (whom we hung out with for the rest of the stay. A retired Scottish man who lives with his wife Judy and their 2 poodles Sammy and Lenny on the Isle of Man.) All went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and when we went to pay Jim had already paid for us all. Very kind of him. Lovely evening. Fun late night chatting. Stayed Marbella again.
Monday 14 January 2008 Got a password for the internet today. Cooked a bbq with Jim and had another late fun night chatting. John and I watched Romulus my Father (very sad movie). Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Tuesday 15 January 2008 I cooked stir-fry for Jim and John. Late night chatting and drinking together. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Wednesday 16 January 2008 John put our campervan on the Loot website for a fee. Jim, John and I all went out to a Danish café for dinner and had garlic prawns and hamburgers. Came back to our camper for drinks and late night chatting. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Thursday 17 January 2008 John and I vacuumed and washed our motorhome for the first time today. We went for a walk along the beach. I made lamb cutlets and roast veg for Jim, John and I. The English couple from Norwich (Carol and Murray) arrived and we had drinks and chatted to them all night in Jim’s palatial huge motorhome with pop out sides. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Friday 18 January 2008 Carol and Murray came by to chat to Jim, John and I in the afternoon sun. Linda did the blog… boring… Someone sent a text re our loot advertisement for our motorhome. Stayed at Marbella Playa.
Saturday 19 January 2008 Walk along the beach. Relaxed and watched movies.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Hello from Alhama de Granada
Hola everyone.
Linda is still typing up the next exciting installment. we are in Alhama de Granada which is west of Granada. We have been soaking in some thermal pools just out of town with the locals and a few tourists. Everyone heads down there to have a bath. This village doesnt make it into Lonely Planet but is definitely a highlight for us. Its a medieval town built on a cliff with many of the houses falling down. The thermal pools were discovered by the romans and there is a flash hotel there now which is only open in spring and summer. The water flows from the hotel into the river in a series of pools. Apparantly the hotel tried to empty the water straight into the river and not into the baths so the locals couldnt use it (they were an eyesore to their rich clients!) but the locals got pissed off and they had to leave it running into the baths.
We have worked out that the libraries here have free internet so i am waiting for linda to do her emailing.
We will head to Torreleminos (on the coast near Malaga) tommorow and hopefully catch up with Bill and Malcolm who we travelled a few days with and had new years with at Nerja. Then to Marbella for a few days then Ronda (which is inland). We will also check out Gibraltor (and get some tax free grog) and check out Morrocco for a few days. We pick up Jacki (our friend from Goulburn) in Seville on 2 Feb and leave her at Lisbon on 15 Feb before heading north to Paris then London.
Linda will post her next exciting update in a few days. Highlights will be xmass at Benidorm -jewell of the costa blanca (sarcasm) NYE at Nerja with Bill & Malcolm, Almeria where the camper nearly became a permanent fixture, Granada with Kris and Julie (Canadians we met in Germany) and Alhama de Granada (where we are now).
The development in Spain is unbelievable. Many of the roads are brand new and they confuse Jane (TOMTOM). Even the smallest village on the coast has half a dozen huge cranes towering over them building apartments. Real estate sales are slowing here like everywhere else and I am sure there will be tens of thousands of unfinished apartments that no one wants.
I had a very traumatic experience in Almeria when I made a wrong turn and was committed to driving on through ever narrowing streets. I had to take a very tight right hand corner and luckily had about 2mm clearance and a well placed gutter that slid the back wheels around without a building crashing through our kitchen window. A few spanish men helped get us out with the best help being an old man telling linda to be quiet as she was giving contradictory directions and freaking out. All the locals were leaning over their balconies watching the fun. I nearly kissed the guys that helped us - I was so relieved to get out. I dont think I would have made it if the van was 5mm longer or higher (the roof box had a few mm to spare under the first floor balconies). (Dont worry Nik the van came through without a scratch).
Anyway the library is closing (8.30pm here). I hope everyone had a good holiday.
Regards, Adios
John
Linda is still typing up the next exciting installment. we are in Alhama de Granada which is west of Granada. We have been soaking in some thermal pools just out of town with the locals and a few tourists. Everyone heads down there to have a bath. This village doesnt make it into Lonely Planet but is definitely a highlight for us. Its a medieval town built on a cliff with many of the houses falling down. The thermal pools were discovered by the romans and there is a flash hotel there now which is only open in spring and summer. The water flows from the hotel into the river in a series of pools. Apparantly the hotel tried to empty the water straight into the river and not into the baths so the locals couldnt use it (they were an eyesore to their rich clients!) but the locals got pissed off and they had to leave it running into the baths.
We have worked out that the libraries here have free internet so i am waiting for linda to do her emailing.
We will head to Torreleminos (on the coast near Malaga) tommorow and hopefully catch up with Bill and Malcolm who we travelled a few days with and had new years with at Nerja. Then to Marbella for a few days then Ronda (which is inland). We will also check out Gibraltor (and get some tax free grog) and check out Morrocco for a few days. We pick up Jacki (our friend from Goulburn) in Seville on 2 Feb and leave her at Lisbon on 15 Feb before heading north to Paris then London.
Linda will post her next exciting update in a few days. Highlights will be xmass at Benidorm -jewell of the costa blanca (sarcasm) NYE at Nerja with Bill & Malcolm, Almeria where the camper nearly became a permanent fixture, Granada with Kris and Julie (Canadians we met in Germany) and Alhama de Granada (where we are now).
The development in Spain is unbelievable. Many of the roads are brand new and they confuse Jane (TOMTOM). Even the smallest village on the coast has half a dozen huge cranes towering over them building apartments. Real estate sales are slowing here like everywhere else and I am sure there will be tens of thousands of unfinished apartments that no one wants.
I had a very traumatic experience in Almeria when I made a wrong turn and was committed to driving on through ever narrowing streets. I had to take a very tight right hand corner and luckily had about 2mm clearance and a well placed gutter that slid the back wheels around without a building crashing through our kitchen window. A few spanish men helped get us out with the best help being an old man telling linda to be quiet as she was giving contradictory directions and freaking out. All the locals were leaning over their balconies watching the fun. I nearly kissed the guys that helped us - I was so relieved to get out. I dont think I would have made it if the van was 5mm longer or higher (the roof box had a few mm to spare under the first floor balconies). (Dont worry Nik the van came through without a scratch).
Anyway the library is closing (8.30pm here). I hope everyone had a good holiday.
Regards, Adios
John
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