Still in France

Hi all
Sorry to keep you all in suspense for the next exciting instalment. We have seen some very beautiful places and met some beautiful people with a few car troubles along the way.

After Mont St Michael we visited Dinan where we posted our last entry and discovered French keyboards which have the keys a little bit mixed up.

Our car troubles began shortly before dinan with a blow out. We purchased 2 new tyres in Tours then a week later the exhaust came apart. John managed to tie the exhaust together with some old wire to allow us to get to Limoges where we parted with 610E for a new exhaust. A week later our engine became very sick in Montignac and we spent a week living in front of the Fiat garage in Montignac. A pinion that the timing belt ran around was worn out. The car is perfect now.

Loire Valley

Visited Angers chateaux with the 11th century ‘Apocalypse Tapestry’. Visited a troglodyte village at Rochmenier, Montsoreau chateaux and St Martin Church. We camped 2 nights on the Vienne River near Chinon after driving off the tar to camp next to the river and getting stuck after it rained all night. Chinon castle where Joan of Arc picked out the French King. Chenonoceu chateaux – very beautiful.

Orodour sur Glane has been left as it was in 1944 when the SS left after massacring the whole village. We met some nice poms here - Marie and John and their son Stuart and Collette. Had a big night and John was very sick the next day. We spent 5 nights around here waiting to get our exhaust fixed in Limoges including a night at Aixe sur vienne and a night at Solignac.

2 days after leaving Limoges we limped into Montignac with major engine problems. We were very lucky to meet a nice English couple who now live on the Vezere River outside of Montignac, Steve & Judy (both archeologists see www.cavesandcastles.com – highly recommended they run a b&b and take tours) who organised for their neighbours grandson Sebastian to look at our car. We ended up at the Fiat Garage in Montignac where Sebastion works and met Chris (who owns the garage) and Natalie (and Charlene, Noa, joe, Zoey, Papa and Mama). We were thinking we needed a whole new engine but by 2am after much whiskey and much improved Australian – French relations we realised that Chris would be able to fix it and that that was a worst case scenario. Luckily Natalie and Chris speak a little English and we were able to communicate reasonably effectively. We became good friends and they made us a beautiful French multi-course dinner which was exceptional. We met their best friend Xavier the local pharmacist who spends most of his time in the Alps skiing. It took a while to find the problem and order the required part. We were living in front of the garage watching friends and customers come and go and having a great time – just remember this is all in French!

4 August 2007 We hired a double kayak for 5 hours and kayaked 20 kms from Montignac to Tursac passing 3 huge 1000 yo chateaus built on cliffs, and 2 Troglodyte cities used by cromagnon men over 17,000 years ago. Kiyaking under overhanging cliffs, surrounded by forest, swimming in the Vezere was right up John’s alley! Very beautiful.

5 August 2008 Were about to depart Montignac when we met the most lovely English couple Judy and Steve (archeologists) who run caves and castles which is a b&b and tour package. Steve and Judy were most helpful and we were very blessed – they went off to arrange for Sebastian to come and look at our camping car (French for motorhome). John and I had a swim in the Vezere as very hot.

7-8 August 2007 Boring car stuff and very stressful speaking to insurance company in England and Chris the mechanic speaking French, with Steve translating everything.

9 August 2007 Judy left car insurance and consumer rights stuff under our wipers this morning when we awoke – very sweet! Dropped car at garage and went to Lascaux caves to check out 17,000 year old cave drawings - one of the first evidence of spiritual/art forms by man (cromagnon man) although the historians and archeologists recreated the images (original infested with rock virus!) based on Aboriginal methods of rock art. Called Charles – quite a bit – during our stressful car ordeal – we are very lucky to have his patient and kind and wise advice always there. I cooked dinner for Chris and Natalie and John in camping car at garage! “Petit” when asked if you want more Irish whisky only saves your soul in the morning if you say it a couple of times!!! Very late night…………. Great fun!

11 August 2007 We did a 20km walk and had a swim in the Vezere. Spoke to and watched some French people hangliding. Very hot!

12 August 2007.; Chris and Natalies including Xavier. Natalie a great cook – her father ran restaurants! Fantastic – many courses. Rocked on til the wee hours… great conversation, fun…

13 August 2007 John went on 15 km hike by himself whilst I wrote postcards and journal! Judy left a lovely card for us on windscreen addressed to Linda and John, Riverside View, A cote de la Vezere, Montignac (free camping on river so yes, waterfront!)

14 August 2007 Parts didn’t arrive. Papa Deni drove to Brive for us to get it. Car fixed, big celebrations – mostly in French – John and Alex broke out the French beer for everyone at garage – celebrations all around. Judy and Steve arrived with dinner cooked for us. Had dinner with Natalie, Chris and Xavier – very nice…til 4am. Called Charles twice and both times cut off!

15 August 2007 French Assumption Day – public holiday – Lunch (John said to add MAGNIFICENT lunch – French style – the best!! – always includes much vin etc!) at Chris parents Deni and Monique and her friends also. How lucky are we to meet such nice people! John liked Deni’s liquer cherries – he grows all his own vegies and fruit. Mamas friends place for a swim in the pool with everyone. Great fun. Fireworks that night in town. Poured with rain.
16 August 2007 Made Judy and Steve dinner on River Vezere – again until the early hours. Much fun and jokes and conversations and stories!

17 August 2007 Drove to Brive

18 August 2007 Drove to Sarlat – a beautiful medieval town – all cobbled narrow streets. Drove to Saint Vincent de Cosse and stayed on Dordogne River at aire de service privee – had swim – deeper than Vezere.

19 August 2007 Rained all day

20 August 2007 John did 28 km kayak on Dordogne from Carsac to St Vincent de Cosse past several magnificent chateaus.

21 August 2007 Left for Rocamadour – thanks Charles and Hugh for the France on a shoe string and France DKK books – invaluable for a trip like this xox. Did part of the centuries old pilgrimage at UNESCO site Rocamadour – 14 stations of the cross zigzagging up a steep cliff all cut into rock! The Saint Amadour’s body was found preserved in the cliff cave so a church was built at the site. Very typical story all over France – pilgrims then brought offerings so good to have a saint.

23 August 2007 Left Rocamadour for Domme. Beautiful fortified town with a beautiful view of the valley and looping Dordogne River from the market square. Drove through La Roque Gageac one of France’s prettiest villages with overhanging cliffs on River Dordogne. Drove to Bergerac and listened to live classical music and read about French history, ate pizza.

24 August 2007 Drove to Bordeux – then to Andernos where we got fined 11euros for illegal camping at the port. Hugh – lots of Beneteaus moored in this French port!! Charles sailed half way to Corsica and problems occurred with desalination plant on board affecting compass, including anchor prob – but he is ok.

25 August 2007 Swim at Grand Crohot a lovely beach on Atlantic. All the people made it look like Bondi! Camped in motor home in caravan park.

26 August 2007 Paid fine at police station even though they told us not to bother as we would be returning to Australia!!!! Drove to Perigeuax and walked around a medieval town and stayed on lovely River Isle. Met David and Sharon a lovely interesting couple, both retired Australian baby boomers and very knowledgable about European travel with camping car – got some great advice. See David’s blog at www.campervanman.741.com for interesting reading.

27 August 2007 Left Periguex and camped approx. 3 km west of Montvert in lovely spot overlooking green, rolling rural country side.

28 August 2007 Drove thru St Paul Des Landes, Polminac, Aurillac, Vic Sure Cere, Lioran (big winter skiing area), St Flour (town blt on cliff), onto Pinols (1020m alt.) All very mountainous and scenic.

29 August 2007 Drove thru Lestival and Langeac to Lamastre – camped here thundering and lightening all night.

30 August 2007 Drove thru Valence to Grenoble.

31 August 2007 John did a 10 km walk. We bought 5 5kg gas bottles to avoid further incompatibility issues with gas bottles and attachments after we leave France. Our English gas bottle and attachments were a nightmare to convert for France.

1 Sept 2007 We did a 15 km walk – beautiful day - up steep mountains past the Bastille. Returned to our camping car, sitting in the back, SMASH, a young man of middle eastern appearance had smashed our side window and was running off with our day pack, jacket and $1500 video camera. Very shocking experience. Went straight to police station in Grenoble after John and I fearlessly confronted the gang of boys at the end of the street. Of course they pleaded ignorance!

3 September 2007 Currently St Pierre de Chautreusse 1000m above Grenoble surrounded by amazing 2000m peaks. Heading to alps tomorrow.